Can't get a good Taper Crimp on 9mm 115Gr RN Xtreme Plated bullets

[DW78]

I bought several thousand Plated Bullets last month from Xtreme, have had great luck in loading 380 and 40 cal, but started reloading 9mm 115gr RN Xtreme plated bullets in processed range pickup brass that I wet Tumbled etc. I am using a Hornady Progressive with RCBS Dies, using the Taper crimp seating and crimp die. After I crimp I can spin the bullet in the case, If I add more crimp it deforms the bullet and still spins. Also tried using friends Separate Dillon Taper crimp die and got the same result, what am I doing wrong here, I know I dont have to much case flare, so I am not sure, any Ideas?

[Sarge]

Put your calipers on the bullets and make sure they are not undersized from the manufacturer.

If they are good then check that you sizer is going all the way down the case.

If these check out them we can dig deeper

[lcs]

Your initial crimp is to tight. Your breaking the plating. I have Xtreme 124 JHP plated and they crimp with no problem and are very accurate in my 9MM.

You just want to take the bell out and test for pushback.

[Sarge]

And yes, look for around .376-.377 for crimp.

[Dirty Rod]

If they are good then check that you sizer is going all the way down the case.

That's my bet. Neck tension should hold the bullet tight before you crimp.

[buckaroo45]

I've run several thousand Extreme 115's thru 3 different guns and have had zero difficulty. Excellent product. Certainly on a par with other plated bullets I've used. I use the std Dillon SDB dies and Lee carbide. Like all 3 above said, should hold the bullet before removing the bell and go for .376 - 7 after bell removal. Again like all 3, my first stop would be sizing die adjustment. Keep us posted.

[v1911]

Since the 9mm is a tapered case, the crimp isn't what hold the bullet, it's the neck tension. See that you're not flaring the case excessively. Too much may be removing the neck tension you need to keep things tight.

[GuildSF4]

Since the 9mm is a tapered case, the crimp isn't what hold the bullet, it's the neck tension. See that you're not flaring the case excessively. Too much may be removing the neck tension you need to keep things tight.

9mm or others, doesn't matter. Case tension holds the bullet, not the crimp. The case needs to be sized small enough to grip the bullet tightly. On a tapered case this means the sizing die adjustment is more critical, it must fully size the case.

[ZombieHunter]

Yes, this sounds like an issue with your sizing die, not crimp. It sounds like your sizing die is vastly off. I would look into a new sizing die, assuming you've adjusted it down all the way to the shell plate. I would personally recommend a EGW Undersize Sizing Die (what I use), Dillon or Hornady dies. A U-Die will eliminate many of the problems with neck tension, set back, chambering issues, etc. etc.

Your crimp should be just enough to eliminate the bell on the case. I do not go buy measurements. I adjust it until I can place the neck of the case in the calipers and i see no daylight between the case and the caliper ... meaning it appears visually straight at the very top of the neck. If you use range brass, this measurement will vary from case to case (hence why I don't use measurements). This method has never failed me, and will prevent you from over-crimping the bullet and digging into the bullet itself. If you were to pull the bullet after crimping, you should barely see a ring around a plated or lead bullet... and no ring on a FMJ/JHP.

[Steve RA]

Or you can use a single edge razor blade to check for the case straightness - as others have said, crimp is only to remove the belling on pistol cases, or rifle cases with cast bullets. If you are using a jacketed bullet with a cannelure then it's ok to turn the neck into it slightly.

[Miranda]

others have said what I was thinking;

case sizing is the most likely cause ...

followed by the results of flaring the case to set the bullet.

ummmm... the thickness of the case wall can be the cause also.

I find FC stamped cases are loose on my jacketed bullets

when all other headstamps are good.

I use the FC cases for my slightly fat lead bullets.

[Ixanadu]

I run Lee dies. On the bullet seating die, I've turned it out so no crimp at all, just seat. For the factory crimp die, I've tried 1/2 turn, and 3/8s turn both with good success. The less the better I think for 9mm, based on what I've read. I'm a very new hand-loader and only have a couple hundred shot rounds of experience, so take it with a big grain of salt.

[Cowboy1629]

I never had any luck with Dillon dies on 9mm so I switched to a u-die and haven't had an issue since. I guess my Dillon 9mm sizing die is just off because I could never get it to hold a bullet with neck tension.

[Bob DuBois]

First stage sizing die. Either try a Lee U die or a Standard Lee carbide die set. At present running a standard Lee sizing die in 9mm minor and Lee's U die in 40 S@W. Lee seating die that's back out and has a flat insert. Had one made local and it solved the OAL problem I was having in 9mm minor using heavier bullets. Using a Dillon crimp die with a light crimp. Crimp helps the round chamber, first stage sizing die holds the bullet.

Lee's sizing dies are tighter and will size closer to the extractor groove that other brands. Still have problems then try the U die.

Lee's seating dies have a insert that fits the bullet. For a few bucks you can send Lee the bullet your using and they will cut an insert for that bullet. I shoot several types of bullets so flat insert worked best for me.

Down side to Lee's dies, locking nuts are weak. I would order a set of one inch nuts from Dillon. Dies are tighter so brass is a little harder to get into the shell plate. Might go a little slower and you'll need to lube cases. Lubing cases makes the whole process easier on the press, brass, dies and the operator. On my 550 and 650 had to lock Lee's sizing die from the bottom because of short threads on the die. Your press needs to be in time, just a little off and you'll get jams.

I like to set the sizing die with a thin strip of paper. Set the sizing die first then the others come back to the sizing die and check it with a thin strip of paper used as a go no go gauge. It should pull out with slight effort and not push back in. The carbide ring in Lee's

sizing die is close to the mouth if it hit's the shell plate it could break the ring.

[SWThomas]

It's not the bullets. Xtremem makes some very consistent pills.