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Upgrades installed - Now the Glock 34 seems very rough...


Xhris

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So I broke down and bought a few parts for the Fiancé's Gen 3 glock 34.

Heavy Tungsten Rod / Spring from GlockStore

Spring Kit from Wolff

Titanium Plunger

Ghost 3.5# Connector

Lightened Glock Striker

So everything went in fine as I expected but I noticed two things after we were done with the install.

1. The slide seems to catch in the forward position, more noticeable than before. It almost feels like there is more pressure keeping the barrel in place. This makes it harder to pull the slide back. (Remember, fiancé's gun)

2. The trigger is absolute garbage. The whole goal was to lighten it, but it feels like you are pulling it through an inch of clay before you get to the activation point. I ordered the ZEV trigger, but it hasn't arrived yet. I hope that clears out the pre-travel.

Thanks!

Chris

Edited by Xhris
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The spring is 17lbs, which I am almost certain is the weight of the stock spring.

I can by all means go pickup a 13 and 15lb spring and see what happens. I did replace the striker spring, and striker, so I am pretty sure I can go a little lighter on the recoil spring. Either way, I'm not sure why that would be causing it to catch..

Thanks for the response.

Edited by Xhris
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I use an 11lb recoil spring on my 34, wouldn't go higher than a 13lb spring.

You'll want a 4-4.5lb striker spring - the wolf 4lb striker feels more like a 4.5-5lb spring to me.

I think the Glock minus connector or the LWD 3.5 connector give the most consistent break/reset.

Polish all the metal parts that rub and maybe put an extra power trigger spring in there and it should run pretty good.

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The more I sit here and fuss with it the more I seem to agree the spring is too strong. I'll pick up a 13 and 15 this week.

I feel like once I pull out the pre travel that the gun fires great. Its just that there is almost a full 1/2" of mush before it tightens, then the break seems very clean and crisp.

Thanks for the answers!

Edited by Xhris
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Steven,

I'm willing to bet you are right. So I just took the gun out back and tried to fire a few, and the trigger isn't resetting. I thought I remembered something somewhere about the Ghost2.4# ones needed to be bent a little at times.

When I rack the slide and dry fire the trigger resets just fine.

If I pull the slide back about 1/4th of the way is when I feel the reset.

When I fire a live round, the gun ejects the shell, loads the second round, but doesn't reset the trigger.

Any idea what can cause that? I think tomorrow / tuesday I am going to go to the range and add items part by part if I can't get it working.

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When I use the reduced power safety plunger springs none of mine reset. Thats with ZEV triggers in all my glocks. I just throw em away. No matter how long I fiddle with them I can't get the reset right. I've found the titanium plunger just chip and gall and within 150-200 rds are just junk. My experience, take it for what it's worth.

Steve

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Steven,

I'm willing to bet you are right. So I just took the gun out back and tried to fire a few, and the trigger isn't resetting. I thought I remembered something somewhere about the Ghost2.4# ones needed to be bent a little at times.

When I rack the slide and dry fire the trigger resets just fine.

If I pull the slide back about 1/4th of the way is when I feel the reset.

When I fire a live round, the gun ejects the shell, loads the second round, but doesn't reset the trigger.

Any idea what can cause that? I think tomorrow / tuesday I am going to go to the range and add items part by part if I can't get it working.

Had 2 Ghost connectors do that. Found that the cruciform was pushing all the way down when firing and the "nub" that the frame pushed in to allow the reset wouldn't release the nose if it bottomed out - I had to put a thin shim in the bottom of the drop safety gap of the trigger block to keep the cruciform from pushing too far down with the Ghost connector and then it was fine. I don't use the Ghost connectors anymore because of those issues.

For the safety plunger I just chuck up the stock one in a drill and round it off a bit and polish it and then cut 2 coils of the factory plunger spring.

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When I was campaigning in USPSA with my Glock 34 I found the most usfull internal changes that could be made were the Wolff competition spring kit (primarily the striker spring) and having the facing between the trigger bar (aka cruciform) and striker trued to each other as much as possible without creating a true double strike trigger pull. Everyone I've talked with in Tx South section who campaigns with the 34 or 35 stays away from the titanium parts due to reduced longevity issues. I've never tried any titanium parts as now I shoot my carry gun (Glock 19) in competition and, for my own purposes and reasons, have kept it 100% stock (internally). I did replace the crappy glock sights with Trijicon fixed sights (on all my Glocks) and that is that.

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I'm kind of dissapointed with Zev's titanium plunger, also. I field stripped the gun, and after only 150 rounds i could see little gold speckles all around the back of the slide. That titanium coating must be crap because it all seemed to have worn off after one range session. The plunger just looks like garbage now. Kind of sucks spending 30 bucks on a tiny little part like that and have it destroy itself in a day.

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Some simple parts to replace: Lone Wolf 3.5 Connector, 4lb striker spring, reduce plunger spring, Xtra power trigger spring, 14lb recoil spring. Most parts are Wolff springs. Also polish evrything with Flitz and dremel polishing wheel. If its a GEN 4, you gonna ave to do some filing on the trigger bar.

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So I found the problem, it was the Ghost "Ultimate" 3.5# Connector.
However after reading everyones posts I am going to put the stock plunger back in, bought one from LW as well, where I ordered the additional springs.

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Some simple parts to replace: Lone Wolf 3.5 Connector, 4lb striker spring, reduce plunger spring, Xtra power trigger spring, 14lb recoil spring. Most parts are Wolff springs. Also polish evrything with Flitz and dremel polishing wheel. If its a GEN 4, you gonna ave to do some filing on the trigger bar.

Some Gen 4 Glocks will not reset the trigger or have a very weak reset with that combination of springs. You have to use the OEM trigger spring to correct it.

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Remove that junk titanium plunger, I bet it gets better.

Edit: put the factory power plunger spring back in while your at it.

all the zev plunger springs that comes in the comp spring kit proved problematic for me .

i think the plunger pin sits lower in the port with the zev plunger spring ; the part of the trigger bar that rubs on the safety plunger moves further on the plunger before it makes contact to push it down the port . had the trigger's safety on my G35 sporting a phantom trigger+V4 connector+comp spring kit refusing to reset the trigger's safety . once the stock plunger spring back in,problem went away.

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