DonovanM Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 I would like to undertake this - in a minor way - at a minimum of risk and without it ending up looking like garbage. How do you guys do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 I used a Dremel for the rough stuff and a variety of different grades of sandpaper (100 up to 600) to smooth it out. Most of mine was to bevel the right side of the guard so that I had less of a hard edge pressing against my middle finger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amccallister Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 I used a sanding drum approximately the same diameter as my index finger on a dremel. Just go slow and then finish it up with some really fine sandpaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 The constant radius (side-side) on the bottom of the CZ Shadow trigger guard is very comfortable (compared to a Glock or stock STI) - I wish I had seen that before hacking on the underside of my Glocks (all are sold to other people now). Think of the radius on the top of a 1911 slide and flip that upside-down, that rounding plus a 2nd pass to break the edge is what's on a CZ, ask someone to show you at a match. I'm going to do the same thing on my Open & Limited STI's with a strip of Emory cloth and the frame upside-down in a vise. [Anything you do to a frame with abrasives knocks that frame out of Production division forever] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven420 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 I start with a half inch diameter Dremel sanding drum and finish with progressively finer grits of sandpaper up to 12000 grit. Go slow with the drum. The more patient you are, the better your results will be. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitzghan Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 I plan to do this very soon as well. I'm comfortable sanding down the grip and stipling but this will be my first go at the double undercut. My carry glock has a trigger guard that was undercut by Boresight solutions that I plan to use as a rough guide. Do you guys mark the trigger gaurd before hand to ensure you don't go to far and to give you a rough outline or do you just do it by feel a little at a time? I also read some people using a wooden dowel with sand paper vice the dremel. Anybody use this technique? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimo-Hombre Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 I have worked over glock frames both with dremel and by hand. My reccomendation for undercutting is sandpaper over a dowel or the like. A sharpie works pretty good. With a dremel it is too easy to remove material in the wrong spot when doing smooth radius work. For knocking down the finger bumps dremel is fine but using the dowel trick makes it easier to slowly work to a symmetrical radius on both sides of the trigger guard. Also when using a dremel go literally slow as in slow rpm speed. Too fast and you will begin to melt the poly and get all sorts of trouble. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitzghan Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Thanks Ultimo....that is sort of what I was thinking. It seems the dowel may take longer but I suspect it would be harder to foul up and produce a more uniform result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGlock Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Even pressure and slow speeds with the dremel will work great.. Just dont spin too fast or you get the frame all gooey.. Fine sandpaper to polish it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlgentlegiant Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 I did my frame with the sanding wheels on my dremel. I kept it at the lowest speed and took it very slow. I kept at it until it fit my hand correctly but took off very little material at any one time. Next up is removing the finger grooves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonovanM Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 I did my frame with the sanding wheels on my dremel. I kept it at the lowest speed and took it very slow. I kept at it until it fit my hand correctly but took off very little material at any one time. Next up is removing the finger grooves. Very nice, I think this is is the way to go. I did a little work on my 35 with a dremel & sanding wheel, plus a bit of 1000 grit to finish it off (which made it very smooth and even pleasant to grip compared to my other Glocks). I have a little more finish work to do but I am very pleased with the result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GigG Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Anyone have an idea what the minimum final thickness should be before you get into breaching the integrity of the trigger guard? Gig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitzghan Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 So I returned home picked up the G35 and took the plunge. I ended up using a combination of dremel and various grits of sand paper (220, 400, 600, 1200) wrapped around a wooden dowel and a sharpie marker. I used the dremel on 5k RPM (lowest setting) initially, and found it worked well at about 10k with the sanding wheel I was using. I particularly liked using the sharpie marker and found it to be the optimum size to do precision work. I could not be happier with the results. Below are some pictures of the process. Here is the frame sanded down in preparation for stippling. Slight grip reduction and reduction of finger grooves Here is the double undercut Here is the frame with the stippling complete and ZEV magwell attached Finished product TTI Sights GlockTriggers Edge trigger ZEV Extended Tungsten GuideRod ZEV magwell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven420 Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Beautiful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParkerNash Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 (edited) I did a full grip reduction, double undercut and the silicon carbide grip. All the frame shaping was done with dremel sanding drum. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=174856&hl= Edited May 17, 2013 by ParkerNash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGlock Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 You did a great job! I just did one for a friend.. Check it out below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitzghan Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Nice work gents! I’ve never even considered the silicone carbide option……Great……now I need another Glock! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fate0n3 Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 You guys did a great job.... Sheesh they are killing me mine needs to be done I think me and the dremel are going to have a date soon lol... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klemmer Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 Handsome work. I guess that I have some more sanding to perform on my G34. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceFlunky Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 So I returned home picked up the G35 and took the plunge. I ended up using a combination of dremel and various grits of sand paper (220, 400, 600, 1200) wrapped around a wooden dowel and a sharpie marker. I used the dremel on 5k RPM (lowest setting) initially, and found it worked well at about 10k with the sanding wheel I was using. I particularly liked using the sharpie marker and found it to be the optimum size to do precision work. I could not be happier with the results. Below are some pictures of the process. Here is the frame sanded down in preparation for stippling. Slight grip reduction and reduction of finger grooves sandedframe.JPG Here is the double undercut doubleundercut.JPG Here is the frame with the stippling complete and ZEV magwell attached Stipeledframe..JPG Finished product TTI Sights GlockTriggers Edge trigger ZEV Extended Tungsten GuideRod ZEV magwell FinishedProduct.JPG Do you feel that the finger grooves do not line up as good now that your hand sits slightly higher due to the undercut? Im contemplating doing this to my G24. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knedrgr Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 For me it was mostly with a large curve file. And then various grit sand papers, finishing up with used 600 grit. I also hate the square cut guard, so that had to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitzghan Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 So I returned home picked up the G35 and took the plunge. I ended up using a combination of dremel and various grits of sand paper (220, 400, 600, 1200) wrapped around a wooden dowel and a sharpie marker. I used the dremel on 5k RPM (lowest setting) initially, and found it worked well at about 10k with the sanding wheel I was using. I particularly liked using the sharpie marker and found it to be the optimum size to do precision work. I could not be happier with the results. Below are some pictures of the process. Here is the frame sanded down in preparation for stippling. Slight grip reduction and reduction of finger grooves sandedframe.JPG Here is the double undercut doubleundercut.JPG Here is the frame with the stippling complete and ZEV magwell attached Stipeledframe..JPG Finished product TTI Sights GlockTriggers Edge trigger ZEV Extended Tungsten GuideRod ZEV magwell FinishedProduct.JPG Do you feel that the finger grooves do not line up as good now that your hand sits slightly higher due to the undercut? Im contemplating doing this to my G24. The gun feels like magic in my hand but I had to go pull it out of the safe and really look at it to make sure before I answered your question. No issue with the finger grooves at all. I did reduce them a little bit but even if I hadn’t I think it would be fine. I’ve actually been using this frame with my 34 upper and internals for 3 gun and I love shooting it. My new favorite by far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceFlunky Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 So I returned home picked up the G35 and took the plunge. I ended up using a combination of dremel and various grits of sand paper (220, 400, 600, 1200) wrapped around a wooden dowel and a sharpie marker. I used the dremel on 5k RPM (lowest setting) initially, and found it worked well at about 10k with the sanding wheel I was using. I particularly liked using the sharpie marker and found it to be the optimum size to do precision work. I could not be happier with the results. Below are some pictures of the process. Here is the frame sanded down in preparation for stippling. Slight grip reduction and reduction of finger grooves sandedframe.JPG Here is the double undercut doubleundercut.JPG Here is the frame with the stippling complete and ZEV magwell attached Stipeledframe..JPG Finished product TTI Sights GlockTriggers Edge trigger ZEV Extended Tungsten GuideRod ZEV magwell FinishedProduct.JPG Do you feel that the finger grooves do not line up as good now that your hand sits slightly higher due to the undercut? Im contemplating doing this to my G24. The gun feels like magic in my hand but I had to go pull it out of the safe and really look at it to make sure before I answered your question. No issue with the finger grooves at all. I did reduce them a little bit but even if I hadn’t I think it would be fine. I’ve actually been using this frame with my 34 upper and internals for 3 gun and I love shooting it. My new favorite by far. Thank you for the great response! Hopefully i will be getting my frame work done here within the next couple of weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billdncn Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 (edited) Worried I may have gone a little too far with the undercut for my support hand. It's at .105" thick. Think I'm ok? Fitzghan..... We seem to be very close in our mods. How do you like it? Here is the double undercut doubleundercut.JPG Edited July 28, 2013 by billdncn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitzghan Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Worried I may have gone a little too far with the undercut for my support hand. It's at .105" thick. Think I'm ok? Fitzghan..... We seem to be very close in our mods. How do you like it? Here is the double undercut doubleundercut.JPG Hard to tell from the photo…but at this point it’s either good or it’s not! Time will tell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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