Improved accuracy in my Dillon Powder dispenser

[anm2_man]

i'm having a hell of a time getting a consistent powder charge with my 650, I've tried two different powders(unique, and true blue). I get charges from 7.1-7.6? I tried to polish up the funnel and she slide with some Flitz, but no luck. Any advise would be great.

Make sure your machine is mounted to a solid bench. That is one of the biggest issues with inconsistent powder drops and when operating the press, slow and smooth is better than HARD and FAST !

[benos]

Why does the Uniqtrek baffle help when the DIllon already has a baffle in the powder hopper? Do you baffle the Baffle?

The Uniqtek creates a void over the charge bar. So the bar always has the same pressure on it to fill the cavity. The little bar in the Dillon measure does nothing like that. The Uniqetek only helps with poorly feeding powders. Unique, and Rifle powders. It will do nothing for you good feeding powders.

Is there any data that supports this like the previous poster with before and after measurements?

From MANY years of continuous testing with "good feeding" pistol powders, I can say with certainty that you will not see any difference in the charge weight from a full Powder Measure to a almost completely empty Powder Measure with good feeding pistol powders (with the standard Dillon Powder Measure).

[TBuhr]

I have done the same on my measures as number99 and noticed a considerably easier time dialing it in and keeping the adjustment at the same level as you run the machine. I went one step further and clamped my die head in the press and installed aroller bearing under the sheel plate. the only differences in powder charge I have now are due to not separating brass. It is dead on 99 out of 100 and the one is never more than .1 grains difference. It may seem like a lot of work but it has turned out very reliable on every powder I load!

[Brassaholic13]

I have done the same on my measures as number99 and noticed a considerably easier time dialing it in and keeping the adjustment at the same level as you run the machine. I went one step further and clamped my die head in the press and installed aroller bearing under the sheel plate. the only differences in powder charge I have now are due to not separating brass. It is dead on 99 out of 100 and the one is never more than .1 grains difference. It may seem like a lot of work but it has turned out very reliable on every powder I load!

How do you install a roller bearing UNDER the shell plate?

[ScottyPotty]

I did a repeatability test and have found that you can stroke the press to fast. Pausing a second or two when the charge bar is dumping into the case helps remove 100% of the powder in the charge bar.

[Bbartolini]

I purchased a micrometer for my small powder bar a few weeks ago and calibrated it for WST powder and I must say it was really worth the money. Prior to installing the micrometer, I was getting powder throws all over the place even with the polishing of the powder dispenser. I am in the process of getting a micrometer for my large powder bar now.

[HighCountryStalker]

How does the micrometer increase consistency of throws? I can see how it makes it easier to return to a predetermined charge if you changed it for some reason but I'm missing how it increases repeatability between throws. I've been thinking of pulling the dillon bolt and putting a wrap of Teflon tape just to take out slop. One of my bars is nice and snug but the other is pretty loose.

[outerlimits]

Just add another one of those curved washers...mo betta.

[mjohn]

^^^^^^^^^^^

What is a curved washer? How is it different from a stander washer?

[Paul-the new guy]

How does the micrometer increase consistency of throws? I can see how it makes it easier to return to a predetermined charge if you changed it for some reason but I'm missing how it increases repeatability between throws. I've been thinking of pulling the dillon bolt and putting a wrap of Teflon tape just to take out slop. One of my bars is nice and snug but the other is pretty loose.

^^^ this. It is the same exact thing except the bolt is now a micrometer. How can it be better. And the whole a baffle over a baffle is better than just a baffle... that is laughable

[GuildSF4]

^^^^^^^^^^^

What is a curved washer? How is it different from a stander washer?

Curved or spring washer, designed to act as a spring and maintain tension with a slightly loose bolt or nut.

[Henny]

I have done the same on my measures as number99 and noticed a considerably easier time dialing it in and keeping the adjustment at the same level as you run the machine. I went one step further and clamped my die head in the press and installed aroller bearing under the sheel plate. the only differences in powder charge I have now are due to not separating brass. It is dead on 99 out of 100 and the one is never more than .1 grains difference. It may seem like a lot of work but it has turned out very reliable on every powder I load!

How do you install a roller bearing UNDER the shell plate?

How does priming work?

[cautery]

Why does the Uniqtrek baffle help when the DIllon already has a baffle in the powder hopper? Do you baffle the Baffle?

As Brian said, it will likely be of little or no improvement for smooth metering pistol powders... However, I've ordered one to test in my "making Varget meter consistently and smoothly" experiment... along with a bunch of other stuff.

I read somewhere, and agree in priciple that IDEALLY, if you use the Precision Powder Baffle, the plastic powder baffle in the stock Dillon powder hopper should be removed/cut out. Then the Precision Replacement Baffle is placed in the powder hopper relatively low in the tube... Throw a bunch of charges and check for consistency. Raise baffle up in the tube a bit and measure again... REPEAT. Theoretically, there should be a sweet spot in the tube for max consistency and this spot will likely vary by powder.

The above is based on what I have read elswhere, although I plan to do an experimen to test it out...

I think the Precision Powder Baffle was originally intended for use in replacement powder hoppers... like the extended ones... 2X Powder Hopper for the 550/650 and the 11" hopper for the 1050. The replacement tubes don't have moulded in baffles...

^^^^^^^^^^^

What is a curved washer? How is it different from a stander washer?

Dillon calls them "bowed washers" in the exploded parts views... Some places call them wave washers... I call them a "compromise" at best. I loathe them, and remove them from ALL my powder measure bellcrank screws... and the micrometer powder bar kit eliminates them from the powder bars.

Edited August 17, 2013 by cautery

[flyingrhino]

I've read a lot about the micrometer kit and have debated over and over. The Dillon bolt is usually satisfactory for +/- .1 grains once it is set. The hardest part is dialing in that tenth. The thread pitch is just too course to make fine adjustments. That is my only gripe. I'm leaning toward the micrometer kit for primarily one reason....I only have one powder measure for my 650 and I reload for 3 pistol calibers on it and one rifle caliber. I like the idea of being able to have a repeatable setting to go to for a specific powder and charge. That takes a lot of the frustration out of changing loads. And...the finer thread pitch would make the final adjustment much easier. I just don't feel like buying more powder measures at the moment. It's close to the top of my wish list.

[RDA]

I've read a lot about the micrometer kit and have debated over and over. The Dillon bolt is usually satisfactory for +/- .1 grains once it is set. The hardest part is dialing in that tenth. The thread pitch is just too course to make fine adjustments. That is my only gripe. I'm leaning toward the micrometer kit for primarily one reason....I only have one powder measure for my 650 and I reload for 3 pistol calibers on it and one rifle caliber. I like the idea of being able to have a repeatable setting to go to for a specific powder and charge. That takes a lot of the frustration out of changing loads. And...the finer thread pitch would make the final adjustment much easier. I just don't feel like buying more powder measures at the moment. It's close to the top of my wish list.

If you are like me, you will find that the micrometer kit does everything you state above as well as making it very easy to make quick, calculable load changes (e.g., for load testing).

[ScottyPotty]

Wont you need 2 micrometers kits, one for large slide (rifle) and one for the small slide?

[ScottyPotty]

Why does the Uniqtrek baffle help when the DIllon already has a baffle in the powder hopper? Do you baffle the Baffle?

As Brian said, it will likely be of little or no improvement for smooth metering pistol powders... However, I've ordered one to test in my "making Varget meter consistently and smoothly" experiment... along with a bunch of other stuff.

I read somewhere, and agree in priciple that IDEALLY, if you use the Precision Powder Baffle, the plastic powder baffle in the stock Dillon powder hopper should be removed/cut out. Then the Precision Replacement Baffle is placed in the powder hopper relatively low in the tube... Throw a bunch of charges and check for consistency. Raise baffle up in the tube a bit and measure again... REPEAT. Theoretically, there should be a sweet spot in the tube for max consistency and this spot will likely vary by powder.

The above is based on what I have read elswhere, although I plan to do an experimen to test it out...

I think the Precision Powder Baffle was originally intended for use in replacement powder hoppers... like the extended ones... 2X Powder Hopper for the 550/650 and the 11" hopper for the 1050. The replacement tubes don't have moulded in baffles...

^^^^^^^^^^^

What is a curved washer? How is it different from a stander washer?

Dillon calls them "bowed washers" in the exploded parts views... Some places call them wave washers... I call them a "compromise" at best. I loathe them, and remove them from ALL my powder measure bellcrank screws... and the micrometer powder bar kit eliminates them from the powder bars.

You may find static and humidity may affect your results.

[RDA]

Wont you need 2 micrometers kits, one for large slide (rifle) and one for the small slide?

I do, but that depends if you reload using both the large and small, maybe someone only loads using one or the other. You must install the micrometer into the bar, it isn't swappable between bars.

[jmorris]

I just get extra bars and set them once for the load I am using. I have one that has been set for 3.1 of N310 for 10 years without adjustment. Might as well be a powder bushing.

[flyingrhino]

I've read a lot about the micrometer kit and have debated over and over. The Dillon bolt is usually satisfactory for +/- .1 grains once it is set. The hardest part is dialing in that tenth. The thread pitch is just too course to make fine adjustments. That is my only gripe. I'm leaning toward the micrometer kit for primarily one reason....I only have one powder measure for my 650 and I reload for 3 pistol calibers on it and one rifle caliber. I like the idea of being able to have a repeatable setting to go to for a specific powder and charge. That takes a lot of the frustration out of changing loads. And...the finer thread pitch would make the final adjustment much easier. I just don't feel like buying more powder measures at the moment. It's close to the top of my wish list.

If you are like me, you will find that the micrometer kit does everything you state above as well as making it very easy to make quick, calculable load changes (e.g., for load testing).

I took the plunge and installed the mic. It is everything I hoped for, and as you said, it makes dialing in that load REALLY easy. I wish I had done it sooner.

[Flexmoney]

I just get extra bars and set them once for the load I am using. I have one that has been set for 3.1 of N310 for 10 years without adjustment. Might as well be a powder bushing.

So, you just swap in/out pre-set powder bars? Interesting idea.

[98sr20ve]

I must not know how to easily swap the bars. I have to loosen a nut, slide out the bar/bars. Kinda a PITA. I like the Micrometer. Especially when you have to up the PF by 3 or something due to temp/powder variations. It's just super easy to make a spreadsheet and dial it in.

[98sr20ve]

I read somewhere, and agree in priciple that IDEALLY, if you use the Precision Powder Baffle, the plastic powder baffle in the stock Dillon powder hopper should be removed/cut out. Then the Precision Replacement Baffle is placed in the powder hopper relatively low in the tube... Throw a bunch of charges and check for consistency. Raise baffle up in the tube a bit and measure again... REPEAT. Theoretically, there should be a sweet spot in the tube for max consistency and this spot will likely vary by powder.

Just set the one on top of the other. Powder will fill to just at the level of the Dillon little bar. The Dillon Powder Baffle/bar thing does not work at all like a real baffle. The purpose of the baffle is to only fill the chamber below the baffle with the same volume of powder. The Dillon bar just allows powder to totally surround it. The unique tek version creates a void below the baffle that always has the same volume and pressure on the powder bar. That is what makes it more consistent.