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Best method / tool for aligning a new scope?


RAZZ

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I have an MTAC mounted on my 3-gun rifle and have been using it for a while now. I tried endlessly to get the reticle aligned / straight up and down. Just when I think I've got it, I look through it and it looks crooked. What's the best method / tool for perfectly aligning the scope?

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If the scope has A flat bottom,most do by the turrets, I found to use that is the easiest. If you have quality scope that bottom for base should be aligned with the reticle, the flat base should be perpendicular to the horizontal line of the reticle. I use feeler gauges to square the bottom scope flat to the flat of the scope base or receiver. Add feeler gauges until you fill the cap and scope doesn't "teeter totter". Once snug and level snug down the screws and then tighten to torque. The down side is with some cheaper scopes they don't have a flat or the flat isn't in align with the reticle.

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I've used a inexpensive aluminum string level from any hardware/bigbox store with good success. Just take the wire hooks off of the level. First get the AR leveled( place the level on flatop at the very back, at the charging handle) with bipod or in a gun vise, then move the level (or buy two, they're cheap) to the top of the scope adjustment cap. Should have enough clearance to use this same spot with scope mounted. Move, recheck till leveled.

I recently bought a Wheeler Mfg Scope level kit. Cheap level(s) accomplished the same thing,just a little less time consuming.

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I have an MTAC mounted on my 3-gun rifle and have been using it for a while now. I tried endlessly to get the reticle aligned / straight up and down. Just when I think I've got it, I look through it and it looks crooked. What's the best method / tool for perfectly aligning the scope?

I just sold my MTAC. I struggled with the same problem. I do thing my reticle was a tad off. I squared mine up using the flat bottom to the base and it was still a little off. I tweaked it a bit and the reticle was straight up and down. But then the bottom wasn't square.... But that didn't bother me.

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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/529349/wheeler-engineering-level-level-level-scope-crosshair-leveling-tool

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/189016/wheeler-engineering-professional-reticle-leveling-system

Either one of these. I have the MTAC and Tac 30 scopes on my rifles and used the cheaper Midway level to get it perfect. Good investment for the future.

gerritm

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the scope leveling thing really bugs me, i can never get it PERFECT

i've used the level vials and the feeler gauge with my mtac, i feel really comfortable with the feeler gauge method. with the z6i i got lucky, its only .003 degrees off from my upper. still bothers me but i kinda just blew it off. my vice doesnt hold my rifle completely still so that just adds to the frustration.

both reputable shops in town just eyeball it :surprise:

is there something out there thats better?

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If the scope is being mounted on a AR it will usually be mounted forward of the charging handle.

This will leave the top of the receiver exposed behind the eye piece.

Take a straight edge "a 12" wooden ruler will work". Place it on the flat part of the receiver behind the scope eye piece.

Look through the scope. Turn the scope so the horizontal reticle lines up with the straight edge of the ruler. Done.

Even with scopes with circles there is usually marks to line up with this method.

.

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On my long range rifle I accepted that the bottom metal was square to the world so I leveled up some boards on the floor of the garage, laid the rifle on the level boards and hung a plumb bob out as far as I could and was able to get the vertical cross hair lined up on the string. Also was able to get my level on the scope right. You'd be surprised while shooting prone how much you can cant a rifle without a level on the scope. Doesn't matter for your 3 gun rifle though. The cant of your rifle scope won't matter either unless you are holding over or for wind.

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I used to spend hours screwing around with this and heard about the feeler gauge method, and that certainly works. But I use a much faster method now based on the feeler gauge method. I take a straightedge piece of metal I have that's about 1" wide and slide it in between the upper and the scope and put one edge of it in the picatinny rail making absolutely sure it is flat against the upper and the front of the cutout of the picatinny rail, right in the little "pocket" and then twist it up until it hits the flat part of the scope, rotating it into perfect position, then tighten the mount. Booya! Done. Quick and perfect every time.

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