davestarbuck Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 I've also never done anything to the necks of my .223, I just trim them with the RT1200, tumble off lube, and run them through the press again with the second toolhead for powder, bullet seat, and crimp. Of course my loads are all boat tailed bullets, mostly 55 fmj's, and my accuracy requirements are simply the ability to hit a 8"x10" piece of steel at 300 yards max for the matches in my area and for tactical carbine classes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Religious Shooter Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 According to your set-up "second toolhead for powder, bullet seat, and crimp" you don't have anything to clear out the primer hole after tumble. The Lee die will clear your primer hole, expand your case neck and roll out the inside burrs from the Dillon trimmer. The Lee die is $18-20 and will last you for 10's of thousands of rounds. If you are like me, you will have all kinds of copper shavings/specs on the shellplate without the Lee die. A good portion of that will disappear if you use the Lee on your second toolhead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davestarbuck Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 There is a decapper in station 1 for that purpose.... I actually have a .223 Lee Collet die kicking around somewhere, I think I'll give it a try! I use the Lee Collet die for the .308 I shoot in my bolt gun, I've never full length sized any of that,ever. They are good dies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G29SF Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 I insist on sizing during the trim. After trying several configurations, I have come up with this: Toolhead 1: Station 2 -- .223 sizing/decap/ball-expand die set a little high so trim die will have sizing to do. This cleans up the neck/case-mouth. Station 3 -- swage/backup/expander. Station 6 -- trim die with trimmer. This sizes and trims to exact specs. Toolhead 2: Station 2 -- .223 sizing/decap/ball-expand WITH BALL REMOVED. This ensures a resize without expanding the neck (I don't like how big the ball expands the neck). Station 3 -- swage/backup/expander REMOVED. Don't want the case mouth touched. (I may have a spare backup expander machined to prevent case mouth expansion.) Station 4 -- prime. Station 5 -- powder drop. Station 6 -- powder check. Station 7 -- seat, with nice TIGHT case neck. FMJ-BT slide in no problem. Station 8 -- crimp. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Religious Shooter Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 There is a decapper in station 1 for that purpose.... I actually have a .223 Lee Collet die kicking around somewhere, I think I'll give it a try! Awwww... I wanted you to buy one. To stimulate the economy and all. You should clean the shellplate then load a 100-500 without one. Look at the shellplate. Then clean it. Then load a 100-500 with the Lee die and then look at the shellplate. If there isn't a difference in the amount of shavings... take it off. It's not working for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KentG Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 I have a question for those of you with the 1200. Does it make much of a mess even with the vac? I load my 650 in a spare bedroom converted to man cave with my reloading bench. I have carpeting and put throw rugs in the bench area but dont want to have a lot of shavings hit the floor. Im thinking of just getting a rockchucker to size/decap and going with the hand drill type trimmer and Dillon swage. Im using Scharch brass now and just run the bell back thru in sta #1 for any dents then throw powder, seat and crimp in the house. Unless I can find a deal on a used press to set in the garage as needed for brass prep. Trying to get into the 223 brass prep on the cheap initally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 I have a question for those of you with the 1200. Does it make much of a mess even with the vac? I load my 650 in a spare bedroom converted to man cave with my reloading bench. I have carpeting and put throw rugs in the bench area but dont want to have a lot of shavings hit the floor. Im thinking of just getting a rockchucker to size/decap and going with the hand drill type trimmer and Dillon swage. Im using Scharch brass now and just run the bell back thru in sta #1 for any dents then throw powder, seat and crimp in the house. Unless I can find a deal on a used press to set in the garage as needed for brass prep. Trying to get into the 223 brass prep on the cheap initally. I drilled four 1/8" holes in the vac attachment and it sucks the chips better. I do all my loading in my 3rd bedroom and it hasn't been a problem. But I have a wood laminate floor in there too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 I've never used anything in station one of my second tool head. Are you guys just using a standard size die backed way off or just a decapping only die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 I make sure to have something that will clean the flash hole, since I tumble the lube off, only way I'm comfortable there's not an issue there. Full length backed off, or a neck only sizer, or a universal deprimer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KentG Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 How are guys belling .223 cases??? I use the Lee Collet die. I set it to expand the neck (and in effect rolling out the inside burrs) and knock out any debris in the primer hole. http://www.midwayusa...e-223-remington I used the Lyman M die with my 650. Did not like it. It was common to mush up the case mouth because it wasn't being guided through correctly. The Lee's pin can be bent to guide the case into the die. IF I read what your saying correctly I dont need a full length die on my #2 toolhead? This only does neck size ID and OD plus decap to clean primer flash hole for media? Im in process of getting away from Scharch and this seems like the best way to save a few $. I currently use the powder funnel to very slightly bell and redding seating die then a very small amount of crimp to get rid of any remaining bell. This is for my 69 gr toolhead. I already have a Redding die on S1, I only use to remove any dents. Next toolhead will be for 55gr and the Lee Collet sounds like the hot setup with a Redding seating die and a Lee FCD. AND if I can use a Lee Collet die on each of my 69 gr and 55gr head I can reclaim the Redding NM size die to use on the case prep tool head instead of buying a Dillon Carbide size/Decap die. Maybe save some more $$. Then I only need a new tool head and trimmer/die since I will free up the Redding size die. Sorry for thread drift but anyone see the reason to spend money on a Dillion Carbide Size/Decap when I have the Redding NM die out of the set available maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G29SF Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 I have a size die backed off a bit. Want some sizing to fix the neck. I use the ball expander/decap pin in the sized. Basically a fl sizer die raised just enough to leave something for the trim die to grab onto. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Religious Shooter Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 IF I read what your saying correctly I dont need a full length die on my #2 toolhead? This only does neck size ID and OD plus decap to clean primer flash hole for media? That's right. If you get the Lee die you won't need a FL die on the #2 toolhead. Just screw down the Lee die to just+ clear the flash hole and that's pretty much it. The stem should roll the inside burrs and slightly open up the case mouth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davestarbuck Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Well I stuck the Lee Collet die in my second toolhead, replacing the Lee Decapper. I've got it set to cam over a bit to set the neck tension correctly. Results, my previous load of 25 gr WC844, pulled 55 fmj loaded to 2.24" with a hefty crimp with the Lee FCD would get me consistent 2 MOA groups at 200 yards with my 14.5" chrome lined middy using an Aimpoint, from prone. Adding the Collet die made those 4" groups into 3.5-3.75" groups, so a decent improvement. Should be good for the 8"x10" steel at 200 yards during our "action" rifle matches! Most of my ammo in the AR is used for "CQB" training. Which means afternoons spent blasting targets at 10 yards with one 1-5 drill after another! Thanks for the idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purecharger Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 I have a question for those of you with the 1200. Does it make much of a mess even with the vac? I load my 650 in a spare bedroom converted to man cave with my reloading bench. I have carpeting and put throw rugs in the bench area but dont want to have a lot of shavings hit the floor. Im thinking of just getting a rockchucker to size/decap and going with the hand drill type trimmer and Dillon swage. Im using Scharch brass now and just run the bell back thru in sta #1 for any dents then throw powder, seat and crimp in the house. Unless I can find a deal on a used press to set in the garage as needed for brass prep. Trying to get into the 223 brass prep on the cheap initally. I turned a walk-in closet into my workshop/reload room and just trimmed 2k cases of .223 with my Dillon 1200. I have a little 1gal shop vac that I duct taped to the vacuum manifold and ever single brass shaving went into the vacuum. I resisted the 1200B for a while because of the price but now that I got one I'm glad I didnt get anything else. Just sit there and pull the handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KentG Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Trying to buy one of these used or pretty much any Dillon stuff used at Ebay or elsewhere is a bit like finding the holy grail. At least at anything for less than 90-95% of new price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trident Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 I use a head case gauge to measure fired cartridge then set the die to back the neck up .002. Lube using Dillion lube with shells placed neck up in case holder sprayed in box method. Tool head #1: Dillion full length sizing/decap/ball-expand die set a little high so trim die will have sizing to do. This cleans up the neck/case-mouth. Station 4 -- Dillion Trimmer. No need to debur or chamfer. Tumble clean Swedge Tool Head #2: Universal decapper in S1 to make sure the flash hole was clear, Primer & Powder in S2, Bullet in S4, Crimp S5 So are you guys sizing with the Full length sizing die or the trimmer die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artsville Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 There is a decapper in station 1 for that purpose.... I actually have a .223 Lee Collet die kicking around somewhere, I think I'll give it a try! Awwww... I wanted you to buy one. To stimulate the economy and all. You should clean the shellplate then load a 100-500 without one. Look at the shellplate. Then clean it. Then load a 100-500 with the Lee die and then look at the shellplate. If there isn't a difference in the amount of shavings... take it off. It's not working for you. ok....so if i am not going to use the dillion trimmer...and i have fl resized and trimmed already. My second tool head would not really need anything but a universal decapper in S1? Or should i use a collet die or "M" die for necks and case mouth. I guess i could experiment with or without. Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Religious Shooter Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 The Lee Collet or the "M" die are being used primarily because the Dillon trimmer doesn't chamfer. So if you're trimming set-up chamfers and you are OK with what you're FL die does to your necks... then yes you don't need to use the collet die or an M die on the 2nd toolhead. You can just use a universal decapper. Me personally... I've tried a universal decapper and they didn't feed the case into the die smoothly in my 650. Maybe you will have better luck with them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artsville Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 The Lee Collet or the "M" die are being used primarily because the Dillon trimmer doesn't chamfer. So if you're trimming set-up chamfers and you are OK with what you're FL die does to your necks... then yes you don't need to use the collet die or an M die on the 2nd toolhead. You can just use a universal decapper. Me personally... I've tried a universal decapper and they didn't feed the case into the die smoothly in my 650. Maybe you will have better luck with them? has anyone played with the floating die setups by whidden (i think) ? Would it help with the case lining up for the decapping die? Also why does the case not feed properly with the universal vs the collet die that does line up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Religious Shooter Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 I doubt the problem is universal. Lots of people use a universal decapper and don't mention any problems. It could just have been with my set-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lablover Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Good thread so far. I'll be getting a Dillon trimmer as well and I think I will setup a different toolhead for my 650. All once fired LC brass I was thinking deprime, run thru sizer/trimmer then once last time thru another (redding) sizing die backed out to just run the button thru the neck. Not sure if it matters if I run it thru the redding first or last but I figured last might clean up any burrs etc. I could do all this on one toolhead, then set up another toolhead for the loading process. The only thing I'm trying to avoid is running the brass thru too many sizing operations. I'm all ears to changes. Oh yea, I have to swage them as well someplace in the process. Just picked up 5000 once fired LC brass at a deal. Not cleaned nothing. Gave me an excuse to buy a few more goodies. Trimmer, new (big) Dillon tumbler. Let the fun begin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffgats Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 I just got a 1200 Trimmer, I know some of my question and answers are all in the posts, I need to have it summarized, it gets a little confusing reading all the post 1. How do you use the case cage ( dillon) with the trimmer ( I know its a stupid question 2. Because I will be using a 2 tool head set, first tool head s1 resizing/ decapping die, s3 trimmer How do you set up the triimer if already been sized at S1, 3. Whats your advice on how to configure this set up ( S1- sizer/ decap, S4 trimmer) thanks, I know my inquiries is a liitle bit mix -up, a liitle confuse here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lablover Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 I just got a 1200 Trimmer, I know some of my question and answers are all in the posts, I need to have it summarized, it gets a little confusing reading all the post 1. How do you use the case cage ( dillon) with the trimmer ( I know its a stupid question 2. Because I will be using a 2 tool head set, first tool head s1 resizing/ decapping die, s3 trimmer How do you set up the triimer if already been sized at S1, 3. Whats your advice on how to configure this set up ( S1- sizer/ decap, S4 trimmer) thanks, I know my inquiries is a liitle bit mix -up, a liitle confuse here Same here. Should we start another thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heshin Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I just finished doing 1000 223 rds without a 1200, my process was as follows. 1. Tumble to clean 2. Lube 3. FL resize and deprime on Rockchucker 4. Tumble to remove lube 5. Swage with Dillon Super Swage 6. Run through case gauge 7. Trim brass that needed it on Lyman power trimmer then chamfer 8. Load on 550: S1-Decapping Die, S2-Powder, S3-Bullet, S4-crimp Needless to say it was a PITA and took forever but I have another 10k pieces of brass and need to speed things up, it looks like the 2 tool head setup with the 1200 on the 550 may be my best bet. With the 1200 on the 550 can you crank out brass at the normal rate of 500 per hour? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now