Dalmas Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 I've just bought a Dillon XL 650 (not received yet) so I'll soon start reloading for the first time, this past weekend at the Nordic Championships I started to collect some brass (.40 s&w) of all kinds. I hear people says that this and that manufacturer is crap and this and that manufacturer is good, going through my bag I find about 8 different kinds of brass represented. IMI, Winchester, Starline, S&B etc. How do I now if it's reloadable or crap? What makes good brass good and bad brass bad, and how can I tell.. p.s. I did a search but couldn't find a satisfactory answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Dalmas, I wouldn't worry about that. I used to pick up brass (and long time shot brass) from matches, and never worried about it: a good sizing die, a final touch with FCD, and my rounds were 100% reliable. When they cracked, I dumped them (I use to stir them in my hands after tumbling, I can tell a cracked brass by the clinking). How do I now if it's reloadable or crap?Just stay away from CCI Blazers I no longer pick up brass since I discovered buying 2K once-fired .40" brass from the USA is cheaper (some € 55 S+H included) than bending 2K times... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimel Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 I have found S&B to have very tight primer pockets in .40 and thus are progressive unfriendly. Any S&B that makes it to my bench gets launched into the scrap brass bucket. YMMV. Winchester and Starline should present zero problems. No experience with IMI that I am aware of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 The only "problem" brass I've seen in 40 is what appears to have been fired in a machinegun (or some other firearm with a gawdawful chamber). Every case has a sharp line about where the edge of the chamber is. Fortunately, I'm able to weed most of them out. Aside from that, I use everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 S&B has tight, or crimped, primer pockets. You can wiggle seat a primer, but it's not worth the trouble. It's really the only .40 brass I avoid. A lot of the once-fired Winchester I get expands in the extractor groove and resists going into the shellplate. Winchester tends to do this after many firings. And Winchester brass results in many high primers, especially with WSR. The chamber or gun it has been through, and the load it fired, are much more important. This is why the EGW sizing die is so awesome; it reduces the cartridge gauge reject rate to near zero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Larry Cazes Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Your best info is going to be experience with your press and gun. Everyone has their favorite brands of brass buit there seem to be few constants. I favor Winchester, S&B, PMC, and Federal. The only .40 brass I avoid is Amerc. I started out with 20K once fired from a local police range and am down to 7K-8K since the fall. I try not to pick up my brass at matches since it is so cheap and isn't worth the hassle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidwiz Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 I've had some problem with mangy range brass. It will reload fine, pass the chamber checker, but apparently the exractor grove in the case had some burrs in it or the grove was deformed b/c the case will not slide up under the extractor all the way, resulting in a malfunction. So now I use any mangy range brass only for practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dead Buff Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 I shoot any .40 and 9mm brass I can lay my hands on (except cracked/aluminum/steel/etc) due to the extremly high cost of the stuff around here. I don't leave a range with not ALL my brass picked up (I've lost less that 50 cases in the last 2 years). My .40 brass has shrunk y .4mm already so I just adjust the dies..... Some of the locals still shoot cracked brass - as long as the bullet is tight and the powder stays in they shoot 'em...... For competitions use the good stuff, use everything else every other time. P.S. No I haven't had a jam in over 15 months doing a modest 1500 - 2000 per month Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 With .40, other than S & B, you're good to go. I roll size all my brass (beats Dad resizing all the .40 brass on his Rock Chucker) anyways so the only factor remaining is the primer pocket (see above comments on S & . Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 40 brass I don't like - "F C" (old Federal)...the new stuff seems fine, it is marked "FEDERAL" - PMC, I saw two case blow out...factory ammo. - S&B...gotta watch that lip on the primer pockets (I hear that, after a few reloads, it gets better...I don't know.) - AMERC - Speer, can't really recall if it's their 40 or 9 brass that I skip...must be both. The issue here for me is the primer pockets feel loose with my primers of choice (Federal). I guess I am pretty picky on 40 brass. I like Winchester, FEDERAL, and Starline. I haven't tried much Remington? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmitz Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 I like Winchester, FEDERAL, and Starline. I haven't tried much Remington? Second that, I've tried the Remington cases, most of them show cracks after 10-15 times reloading at PF 175. Henny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 PMC, I saw two case blow out...factory ammo. They don't count if they were in Glocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalmas Posted July 29, 2004 Author Share Posted July 29, 2004 doing a modest 1500 - 2000 per month Modest 1500 - 2000 per month... I wish I could afford that per 3 months.. All, thank you for all your fast replies, This forum and the poeple in it are a god sent for a newbie ipsc shooter. I really like this place. the few S&B's I found are now sorted out.. Can't wait to get going on my press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Larry Cazes Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 Ill trade Amercs for your S&B..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Even Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 Mats, get the EGW undersize Lee die. This will make most of the pick-up brass usable. I have also had problems with S&B brass, some with the primer pockets. But also when using the EGW die, some cases have gotten a "magnum belt". You will notice when you pull the handle. I still use thoose without the belt. Stay away from Partizan cases in .40!!!!!! You will get case head seperation with them, I will post a picture to better illustrate as soon as can. Old Federal "FC" marked brass also something to stay away from. I have no personal expirience, but have I from Jørgen B. You will also discover that nickle brass will crack sooner than non plated. even Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DogmaDog Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 Heh. I'm the guy that scrounges all the .40 brass these guys leave on the range. I've only loaded about 7k rounds in my short reloading career, so I'm not the most experienced, but I'll pretty much use any brass that doesn't have a crack or split, or serious dents in it. If the mouth is dented, but can be pressed close to it's orignial shape with a wooden dowel, then I'll use it. I throw a case out if the rim/extraction groove is really "chewed up", or if the mouth isn't circular after re-sizing. I personally like the tight S&B primer pockets...kind of a satisfying feel pushing the primers in...and they do loosen up a bit after a few reloadings. DogmaDog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dead Buff Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 Like I said - if it shoots straight and doesn't jam I use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBF Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 Alot of good advice above. I have only used Win. and Fed. in 40, they both work well. Someone mentioned AMERC brass in 40 ? Geeze, that stuff is the most evil brass in 45 EVER ( I would choose Wolf steel case to reload long before AMERC ) And it would be a cold day in hell before I would load steel cases to 35K PSI. Travis F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdragon Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 There is some good stuff here, As with my super I shoot my 40 brass untill it cracks I would however recommend using new brass at the major matches, extra reassurance. Ivan SCS Vegas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalmas Posted July 30, 2004 Author Share Posted July 30, 2004 Just took delivery of 1k once fired Federal .40 brass. Now I only need that machine to come home so I can get cranking.. Kinda feel like 1½ years ago when I contemplated if I could figure out how to shoot IPSC.. I could... now I wonder if I can figure out how to make the perfect load for me and my gun... a little worried since I find this reloading science a bit confusing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texasag93 Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 Only brands I avoid are S&B and Amerc. Have had little or no problems with any other brand. When the case mouth cracks, dump them. TXAG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalmas Posted July 30, 2004 Author Share Posted July 30, 2004 I would however recommend using new brass at the major matches, extra reassurance.Ivan SCS Vegas Thanx Ivan that brings on the next question, (thread drift)... How many of you guys load different for training and match, and what do you change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterj Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 Dalmas, there was a poll done on this very question, a search should net you the answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeFoley Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 New to reloading in the last year, but lots of practice so far. AMERC-every time my STI malfed it was an AMERC case. S&B-when a round would not case guage, it was S&B. I shoot only a few types of brass since the first 2K, and they all work 100%. They are new Starline, once fired Federal, Winchester, Speer. I like once fired nickel a lot. I only pick it up and load it again if it has been fired in my gun at a practice session where I am the only one shooting .40. If you get a full length resizing die, Glock and Sig brass are no problem. I shoot the same load in an STI Edge, a S&W 646 revolver, an STI Trojan, and previously a Glock 35. The first 4000 once fired Federal I got were from a police range where Glocks were 99% dominant, and I had no issues with the first 3000 rounds fired, 1000 more loaded and waiting. Once fired brass is very inexpensive and plentiful. One final note, stay away from Federal NT brass. They use a different primer pocket dimension on these to keep airborne lead in the case, and it can cause problems at the press, in the box, or in the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted July 31, 2004 Share Posted July 31, 2004 Like Erik, I find that .40 Winchester cases expand in the head and extractor groove after a few firings, and that the pockets loosen up quickly. They only last 7 or 8 loadings. I managed to pick up quite a bit of once fired nickel RP by scrounging after police qualifiers at our range, and commercially. It's still going strong at about 10 loadings so far, though I have noticed primer seating loosening up a bit, and there is 2 to 5 % loss due to case mouth splits each firing. Most of those firings were at minor PF, though, and I am now shooting hotter stuff in practice. We shall see... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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