New to reloading and .40 SW

[BobS761]

My dad and I are relative newcomers to loading in general, having just experimented with some .45LC. Just ordered dies for .40 SW. Loading manuals are great, but we suffer from information and choice overload. Pap is going to load for my son and me shooting an XD and XDm 40 in production. What we would like to know is a good starting point, powder, charge, and bullet, to begin with. Eventually, I think we are going to cast bullets. Maybe some comments there as well.

Thanks,

B

[carter300]

All types of info to search for lead, clays, WST, Bayou. Search and you shall find.

Asking a generic question that you have, you will get too many answers and wont know what to start with. Figure out specifically what you want, then ask the question(s) and refine the search.

[Kyle O]

Buy a chronograph, arguably it is AS important as the press itself.

Otherwise your loading blind, you do not want to find out you're sub-minor at a match.

[PKT1106]

For production, you only need to meet Minor power factor. There is a growing pool of information for 40minor on this board. Alot of evidence has pointed to a 180gr bullet, a standard small pistol primer, and Hodgdon Clays powder. You may have to tweek your load and try different springs for your firearm, but my XDM40 was cycling fine with the factory recoil spring using 180gr Rainier Flat Points, Fed100 Primers, Assorted brass and Clays charged at 3.0gr.

With a 180gr bullet, you only need to push it to 700fps to make minor. Aim for 720-730fps to make sure you make power factor with some room to spare. This should be about 130PF, but you need to test it in your guns.

Buy a chrono. Midway has the Prochrono Digital onsale for $99 right now. A lot of people have them, including myself. It's cheap insurance against not making PF.

Remember, the XD & XDM 40s may require slightly different loads, but given you are shooting production for both, find a load that makes PF in each and stick with it, even if it is a little higher in the other gun.

Edited May 4, 2012 by PKT1106

[Classic_jon]

I will second reading through some of the posts on loading .40 here on the board http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=73

Next, for someone new to reloading, I would *NOT* suggest using a exceedingly fast powder like "clays." When used properly, "clays" is a good powder but it is very fast and unless you pay close attention, you can have case blowouts and/or other "bad things" happen. As a new reloader, you may not know (yet) what to look for and do to prevent this from happening.

I would say to start with a slower powder like win 231/HP38 or similar that is hard to double charge (without knowing it immediately) and to get someone that has reloading knowledge to Mentor/Teach you when you are first starting out. Having a Mentor can save you a ton of headaches and keep you from making a lot of the typical "newbie" mistakes.

I started out with Win 231/HP 38 and after learning quite a bit with that, I graduated to faster powders.

Also, be aware, there are *three* "Clays" powders. There is "Clays", "International Clays", and "Universal Clays." "Clays" is very-very fast, "International" is slower, and "Universal" is generally in the same speed range as Win 231/HP 38.

This is why when someone says "Clays" people will ask clarifying questions as to which one OR assume that you really do mean the fast powder.

[RH45]

.40 minor, for production? 180 grain jhp, with 3 grains of straight Clays behind them. It doesn't get much softer, unless you go to a .22 rimfire!

[PKT1106]

Next, for someone new to reloading, I would *NOT* suggest using a exceedingly fast powder like "clays." When used properly, "clays" is a good powder but it is very fast and unless you pay close attention, you can have case blowouts and/or other "bad things" happen.

I second your caution that using fast powders takes a little bit of experience, but if you stay within the guidelines of Hodgdon and any info your bullet manufacturer states, you should be OK.

Clays is so fluffy, I don't think you could get a double charge to stay in the case, even at 3.0gr. If he follows safe practices and focuses on the process, there's no reason he can't try it out.

[BobS761]

Thanks for the replies. I'm not sure I reed to try to load minor loads at my level of experience. Perhaps lighter, but I know I need lots more research and experience to experiment from the start. What I'm looking at is a manual, with lots of different powder choices, for lots of different bullets. To be specific, i need a solid, safe, starting point, including specific powder, charge weight, and bullet. I know there is more than 1 answer, and I'll probably try several. I'm really just trying to avoid looking at my choices and going eeny meeny miney moe, and doing the same if my LGS doesn't have it anyway.

Thank you all again for the replies.

B

Sorry for my ignorance.. If I load to minor pf, is there a risk of cycling malfunctions? Remember, this is my first attempt at reloading, and my dad's second.

Edited May 5, 2012 by BobS761

[JeremyM]

FWIW, this is my minor load (3-Gun) 180grain Berry's, 3.8 VihtaVouri N320, 1.18 OAL=130 pf. For major, I put a 200 gr. Bayou Bullet on top, with the same powder load=170 pf.

Hope this gives you a starting point

[leas327]

Clays is fine for a minor load. So are Bullseye, WST, Solo 1000. These are powders that are questionable in short lengths at MAJOR pf. Minor loads at short lengths with these powders are listed in a lot of reloading manuals. Tite Group will also work. If you are new to reloading don't try to make these something they are not by overloading to make major. Just use a powder like Unique, WSF, or even Power Pistol if you want to make major by the book.

As far as casting your own. If you are going to shoot in bulk about the only choice is the lee 6-cav 175gr TC mold. I have one and it drops a bullet that weighs 183ish with wheel weight scrap. You can find other molds but other factory molds will be 4 cav. You can find a group buy on the castoolits forum for either a 160 or 180 RN mold. I think the biggest is a 5 cav. I thought about getting in on it but my gun runs the TC's so I am not that worried about it.

[deerassassin22]

shoot me a PM with email and I will send you a chart with data and chrono information for 40cal and 9mm.

[Blazer-6]

be careful with the .40, inspect brass well, measure OAL well, and watch for pressure signs. Vihtavuori N340 or Ramshot Silhouette make perfect powders for beginners in the .40. very forgiving in standard 1.126-1.135 length. Faster N320s and similar will always have you exceed manufacturer listed max loads to make major, and you will have to play with OAL. finicky stuff.

[rflumere]

I am loading a 180 plated FP bullet (Powerbond)

with 4.0gn of Bullseye to 1.125 for a Sig P226

It chronos at about 810 fps. or PF of 145.

Bob Flumere

rflumere@comcast.net

[72stick]

Loading .40SW for minor is probably smart for newbies. I'm playing around with .40SW for open and it's a tricky caliber. You'll never see plus P in .40SW.

Here's a great article on the .40SW.

http://greent.com/40Page/ammo/40/180gr.htm

[BobS761]

Thanks for all the info. I think I'm getting that I should load to minor PF for what we are shooting. We are ramping up this week to start loading.

B

[motosapiens]

Thanks for all the info. I think I'm getting that I should load to minor PF for what we are shooting. We are ramping up this week to start loading.

B

Maybe I missed it, but what type of shooting are you doing? Most of the folks on this site are experienced competitive shooters, so they are probably assuming you are also shooting competitively. If so, what sport and what division?

I personally only started reloading last year. I was just plinking in the beginning, so I got started using power-pistol powder because it's slow burning and takes up alot of space, so it's darn near impossible to make a catastrophic mistake. A month or so later, I started competing and so I switched to n320 and clays, which are quieter and less flash and less recoil for minor loads.

I found that in my m&p40, I could go down sub-minor loads and the gun would still cycle 100% reliably. On my CZ, I had to use a lighter recoil spring when the pf got around 130.

[JimmyZip]

Hodgdon has a great website with reload data.. Start at the bottom of the charge table with your powder and bullet. Work your way up, look at your accuracy, and velocity. I think working up a load is fun. Getting it right is quite rewarding. Good luck.

[flasurfsup]

what problems could I run into using clays with a 155g rainier fn? starting with 3.7g load. (range shooting) p229,pps