Need 9mm Reload Advise

[Trident]

New to IDPA, this site, and just bought a Dillion 650 and new to reloading. so I'm expecting to get suggestions all over the place but hoping to get some kind of consensus.

I'm looking for practice ammo for 9mm, 40, and 223 and I can buy in bulk to save where applicable.

I'm looking to load 1000-5000 rounds of 9mm, 40, and 223 and shoot 1000 rounds a week and up to this point been buying factory loads so I'm looking for load info for my first purchase of primers, powder, and bullets for:

Sig 226 9mm

P30l 9mm

Sig 2022 40 SW

Your suggestions, recommendations, and words of wisdom?

[Mike_P]

I'd purchase a few reloading manuals first if you haven't already.

We can suggest a bunch of different things but if you haven't done your homework then none of it will matter. Either that or you'll just hurt yourself.

That said, are you looking to load 9mm in minor or major? Have any preference on bullet weight? FP/HP/RN?

[burket]

Trident

I use a 550 (for the last 14 months!). I use Glock 17 and 34 in 9MM, and Glock 22 and 35 in 40S&W.

I use Winchester 231 (or Hogdon HP-38), Montana Gold 124 gr JHP in 9MM, and Montana Gold 180 gr JHP in 40S&W.

I use Winchester Small Pistol primers, and range brass.

I use 4.4 gr of HP38 at 1.122 OAL for 9MM (about 130-135 PF)

I use 5.2 gr of HP38 at 1.127 OAL for 40S&W (about 175-180 pf).

I use Powder Valley for powders and primers, and MannyUSA for 6 cases or more of MG bullets.

Hope this is useful to you.

[jeremy kemlo]

I like Bayou Bullets 147gr for 9mm. I really like N320 for powder but I dont like the price so I use titegroup. This combo is cheap and works well for me.

[Trident]

Looks for Range, so far I have the Lyman, and so far have only been shooting RN but open to suggestions.

I'm a Mech Engineer by schooling, turned business professional, and former NSWC, but at this point not trying to make this too complicated or over analyzed. Just trying to get started and looking for advise. Thanks.

[superdude]

Looks for Range, so far I have the Lyman, and so far have only been shooting RN but open to suggestions.

I'm a Mech Engineer by schooling, turned business professional, and former NSWC, but at this point not trying to make this too complicated or over analyzed. Just trying to get started and looking for advise. Thanks.

what is NSWC?

just about any standard small pistol primer will do. Avoid magnum primers unless you're loading to near max pressure since there are links on this website that suggest they might leak gas with light powder charges and cause breech face erosion. but people's experience varies.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=146365&st=0&p=1668601&hl=primer%20erosion&fromsearch=1entry1668601

Also avoid Remington 1 1/2 primers because they are not made for high pressure cartridges like the 40 S&W and 9mm.

[lee blackman]

I recommend vv N320 or AA#2 powders. I get 115gr FMJ bullets from precision delta, and CCI Primers and Powder from Grafs.com.

VV powder are really clean burning, but a little more expensive than AA. If you fire alot of rounds in a day, your really gonna like the VV powder. AA is my second choice, but its not as clean burning.

The N320 and AA#2 are both fast burning powders. Alot of shooters prefer a slower burning powder, and there are other forum posts if you wanna do the research on the advantages of slower vs faster, and faster vs slower burning powders, and filling the case and all that, so I'm not going to give you the run down.

[nathandewalt]

Safety glasses when reloading. Have read a bunch of stuff about smashed primers igniting though I've never had it happen.

When something doesn't feel right stop and inspect. Don't just force it.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=147113&view=getnewpost

Read this if u haven't already. It should be the thread " golden rules of reloading." Very good thread.

Nathan

[Hi-Power Jack]

I'm looking for practice ammo for 9mm,

Sig 226 9mm

P30l 9mm

Trident, I don't reload .40 or .223, so can't help you there,

but probably similar concept from 9mm.

Primers and cases are all the same (use small pistol), but

you have three decisions to make with 9mm:

1. powder - if you want The Best, try N320 or N340; if you

want to save $$$ - try WW231/HP38

2. Bullet - buy in large bulk MG from Manny - but you have

to decide if you prefer the 124 or the 147 gr

bullets - very few prefer the 115's.

(actually you have to decide between lead &

jacketed bullets - I prefer JHP's

3. OAL - each gun/mag is different - you have to select the

optimum OAL for the bullet you've selected, in the

one gun you're using - if using ammo in two guns,

you might have to compromise on OAL.

Each gun may run better with different powders, bullets & OAL.

All part of the fun.

To get started, try some WW231 and both 124's and 147's - see

which you prefer.

Then, it's all Trial & Error after that ...

Good luck, and enjoy ...

[CocoBolo]

For the Sig226 and since you are new to reloading, I recommend that you stick with Jacketed bullets. The best bullet for the money right now is the MontanaGold. Get your feet wet with some N320 and some 124gr RN or CMJ.

When you have some expierence under your belt then you can play with 147 and 160gr bullets. Lead, Moly etc. But the only non jacketed I have shot in the Sig226 that didn't leave caca in the barrel is the Bayou, and in that one I like the 135gr. YMMV And in non jacketed the cheap powders do better, like 231, and WST etc.

A pound of N320 will load 1500 rounds, so when you boil it down, the cost is minimal. It is a lot less than the primer you are not worried about, and way cheaper than that bullet you are sending down range, but people persist in this nonsence about using cheap powder.

Find a shotgun specialty place and get a 26# keg of Solo 1000. It is the cheapest way to buy powder.

27.1gr of BLC(2) with a 55gr FMJBT Hornady or Federal makes a very accurate .223 round. Groups very nice. Get the bullets with the Cannalure.

[sroe3]

For the 9's, Bear Creek moly 125 TC. 4.1g Universal and CCI SPP from Powder Valley loaded to 1.123. 132 PF from 4" barrels. Moly is a little smokey but inexpensive if you're on a budget.

[recoilguy]

I also suggest N320 4.1g in my 9mm loads. It is simply the best powder I have found! I personally use MG FMJ 124g RN, Only Federal SP primers and an OAL of 1.123. I did trial and error and this is my favorite bullet I can make. It may not work for you, nor do I make any suggestions that anyone else follow my lead. Good luck have fun and load a bunch!

RCG

[Trident]

I also suggest N320 4.1g in my 9mm loads. It is simply the best powder I have found! I personally use MG FMJ 124g RN, Only Federal SP primers and an OAL of 1.123. I did trial and error and this is my favorite bullet I can make. It may not work for you, nor do I make any suggestions that anyone else follow my lead. Good luck have fun and load a bunch!

RCG

Well, I was debating between starting with N320 or TG, and Win, Fed, our CCI primers as I need to buy them for the AR's anyway and PV is out of Fed and I can;t find them for under $100 else where. I was going to get 3000 FMJ RN and was also thinking about trying some plated for frag bullets for steel but not sure which one are good etc..... with the thought that it would be better than lead and less expensive than FMJ.

It would be nice to hear from some Sigg P226 or HK P30L owners ;')

[Mike_P]

Looks for Range, so far I have the Lyman, and so far have only been shooting RN but open to suggestions.

I'm a Mech Engineer by schooling, turned business professional, and former NSWC, but at this point not trying to make this too complicated or over analyzed. Just trying to get started and looking for advise. Thanks.

I apologize for not replying sooner, I didn't realize this was for me at first. Looks for range is just one of the forums standard titles, btw.

The Lyman is good, but be careful with that. There's varying information in each manual, so when you decide what you want to shoot powder and projectile wise, you may wanna check around with a couple different sources. Or as you can see, a lot of people verify loads with others experiences here on the forums.

I shoot a lot of RN for practice, but depending on the gun, also shoot plenty of HP. (Compensators perform better with HP.) HP's can offer great accuracy too without a comp. I rarely should FP, but again many do. It's something to research and try each for yourself to see what YOU like.

So what did you do for NSWC? With a name like Trident one would assume SEAL? If that's the case, I'd imagine you've got plenty of time behind the sights which will aid you in determining a bullet weight that would work best for you.

I would say the EASIEST way to start is as others have said, a basic 124gr or 147gr RN, probably plated, over a simple powder like W231. Makes starting VERY simple.

[Trident]

Mike, Thanks for the info. Be happy to answer a PM. I was planning to get a few manuals and still researching which ones. As of now looks like N320, but PV is out in 4lb so I need to locate someone else, and was planning on ordering lb's of AA as I have not looked into W231 but I will. I was going to order 124 MG FMJ RN and most likely one other plated RN just not sure which one yet and Fed and CCI primers.

Again, thanks for all the help, advise, and great thoughts from all.

[Lebayer]

Anybody with a favorite 9mm load for an AR? I have a couple kegs of TiteGroup that I used to use in .40 cal and planned to run about 4g under a 124g MG FMJ, with CCI SR primers. The AR has a 16" barrel. I did a trial load with 5.2g of Longshot and 124g MG JHP. Chrono'd at 1335fps so declared "Major" when doing the local Fun Shoot! I use the Longshot in .38 Super so would rather use up the TiteGroup for the AR.

[FightFireJay]

...Also avoid Remington 1 1/2 primers because they are not made for high pressure cartridges like the 40 S&W and 9mm.

-I was amazed to read this... I have loaded and fired about 2000 rounds with Remington 1 1/2 to no I'll effect. About 500 rounds of .40 S&W and 1500 rounds of 9mm.

I dug into this a little bit and it appears that the difference between 1 1/2 and 5 1/2 primers is similar to the difference between 6 1/2 and 7 1/2 rifle primers.

1 1/2 and 5 1/2 (small pistol magnum) actually have the same quantity and type of priming compound just different thickness in cup metal.

-Back to the original topic, I'd recommend focusing your efforts (at least initially) on reproducing the factory ammo that shot best (and most reliable) for you.

Choose bullets of the same weight and shape that have worked well, then choose a powder that will let you get the appropriate velocity without pushing limits.

-Once you have read enough and been loading long enough, you will KNOW what direction you want to go with your reloads.

-I'd recommend picking up the Lee reloading book. I think I got mine for $12 and it has a large and varied amount of reloading data.

-if you are willing to buy bulk, take a hard look at Montana Gold for your 9mm projectiles. Also, after you experiment and settle on a powder, buying 8 lb jugs will help cut costs.