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holly crudded up comp batman!


Mat Price

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I have rarely shot FMJ through my trubor but I have been out of JHP so I have shot about 700 exposed base FMJ though it. Now I know this is not from this but my comp in the second chamber is almost full to the bottom of the hole. has to be powder build up as I have Never cleaned the comp before. Things you find on rainy days... I am basicly shooting a single port comp right now. whats the best way to get it cleaned out I am letting some bore shine soak in it right now after scraping it with my pocket knife to very little avail.

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Edited by Mat Price
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I have gotten into the habit of spraying Dillon case lube in the comp before shooting. I picked that up here and it seems to help.

I like to stand my barrel up on it's comp in a bottle of bore cleaner. I only put enough in to soak the ports so I don't eat away the loctite on the threads.

Also, Matt blew mine clean with some glass beads. Looked brand new!

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I am working still on this one I got the dremel and a couple carbon steel wire brushes and soaking it in bore shine. scraping with a small flat blade. When i get it clean i will FOR SURE start using the case lube I dont know why i havent i heard about a while back. There is NO way this front chamber could be working very well I am surprised the projectiles where not hitting the carbon build up.

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I have rarely shot FMJ through my trubor but I have been out of JHP so I have shot about 700 exposed base FMJ though it. Now I know this is not from this but my comp in the second chamber is almost full to the bottom of the hole. has to be powder build up...

It's probably NOT carbon build-up. It's usually lead that has been melted from the exposed-lead base of the FMJ bullets. I don't know which powder you're using, but some are hotter than others and really melt it off.

You haven't seen this before because your hollow-point bullets have the exposed lead in the nose, not in the base like FMJs.

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I'm the one who came up with the Dillon Case lube idea, and Sarge is right..............it WORKS! One of my shooting buddies had been using some regular gun oil in his comp with only limited success and since I don't use the Dillon stuff except on rifle ammo, I decided to give it a try.

If you spray the comp occasionally during a match, and immediately afterwards, you can even wait weeks before cleaning if it's that long between shooting events. It keeps the fouling soft due to the lanolin in it. Frankfort Arsenal and the house brand at Mid South Shooters Supply works equally well, since they have lanolin too. You can get some Scotch-Brite pads, cut them into small strips and holding them with a surgical needle holder or hemostat, scrub the ports with your usual bore cleaner. I can get mine done down to bare metal in about 5 minutes after a 200 round AP match.

Now that you have it clean, just spray it regularly during your shooting day, and it'll stay cleaner than you can imagine.

Alan~^~

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  • 2 months later...

Does anyone have any experience with Bore tech Eliminator for comp cleaning? The first port of my Dawaon comp is prwtty crudded up and I was going to soak it in the solvent but didn't know if it was safe for a stainless comp.

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Are you sure the Dawson comp is stainless? They don't list the material: http://www.dawsonprecision.com/CategoryProductList.jsp?cat=+DAWSON+PRECISION+PRODUCTS:DP+Compensators In my experience, that means it's some variant of carbon steel and can rust. If it looks SS and is not rusting, it may be hard chromed (perhaps with a satin finish)

BTW, Arredondo makes a comp scraper: http://www.arredondoaccessories.com/category.cfm?cid=1006,2027&PID=fc25l4901nhgbq&gid=

I've got one and it's a great tool for disassembling Grams basepads. Dunno about its intended purpose, but the "blade" seems pretty stout and sharp enough to do its job.

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Just out of curiosity, I have heard that a few minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner as part of routine cleaning does a very good job. I haven't started shooting open as of yet but plan on it so it would be good to know.

I do know that an old and well used Glock slide will shed a lot of stuff I couldn't easily get to otherwise.

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Are you sure the Dawson comp is stainless? They don't list the material

I emailed them a while back and they said it was some stainless alloy... I don't remember which, but I had Gary Natale machine it to match my open gun (GANS Guns is AWESOME) and it is some kind of stainless.

Thanks for the info on the comp tool, I had not seen that. I will order one and give it a whirl

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I have heard that a few minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner as part of routine cleaning does a very good job.

I would suspect that it would do a good job with the carbon, but I have a pretty serious amount of lead deposit. I am confused by this because I am running vvn350 with MG CMJ bullets, I am not sure why the sizable deposits are occurring so fast (~2k rounds). I guess it is a hot gun and a really cool comp ;)

Edited by 1911Prof
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The boys for Sierra Bullets gave me some DynaTek Coatings to try. I have used it in my comp after I did an awesome cleaning job as per the directions. My comp does not look like it has had a thousand round through it. It stays clean.

But I also use VV 3N38.

I also used the stuff on my shotguns. They stay amazing clean.

I like the Dyna Tek coatings I purchased two more of their gun care packages.

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If the lanolin is the key, I wonder if coating the inside of the comp chambers with pure lanolin would work at all.

http://www.puritan.com/hand-body-care-070/now-pure-lanolin-070704

I have some of this stuff and it would be simple enough to take a cotton swab and coat the comp chambers every once in a while. Maybe I'll try it to see what happens, but I really don't have a Pb buildup problem (I use FMJs with exposed lead, but usually use a slower powder).

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It has worked 100% better on that barrel pic above when I get home from the range I will take a pic of that comp and show you guts. I have not cleaned my comp now since that first time in 8k rounds. I just give a squirt of dillon case loube every couple 100 rounds. When I do clean it next I will submerge just the comp in 50/50 peroxide viniger and blow it put with brake cleaner and air. Don't use that mix on carbon steel or threaded comps it will eat the thread lock away. Not that it's a big deal just put more on!

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It had pretty major copper deposits so I soaked it with Bore Tech Eliminator overnight. I used a paint key as a scrapper and it worked like a charm. I am definitely using case lube from now on

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Edited by 1911Prof
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