Taper or roll crimp for 223 in an AR?

[mrgreentie]

I'm about to start reloading 223, in bulk, for my AR-15 and was curious as to whether I should roll crimp or taper crimp my rounds. I am using 55gr Hornay FMJBT with cannelure in a Dillon 550B.

Thoughts?

[D.Hayden]

The normal taper crimp die that comes in the Dillon sets is fine...

You may not even want to crimp, a lot of people do not, lots of discussion in threads here

I set the crimp die very lightly, looking at the rounds afterwards, I doubt you could tell.

[modex]

I always thought the cannelure was meant for accepting a roll crimp, and that a taper crimp is used on rounds without a cannelure.

Am I incorrect?

[DyNo!]

I don't crimp any .223.

I can guarantee my bullets aren't deformed, can you? (if you crimp)

I've loaded tens and thousands of 55-75 grain bullets with no issues.

[dmc_md]

When I crimped, I used a taper crimp. I haven't crimped in a long time. Not necessary for an AR.

Darren

[Religious Shooter]

I taper crimp. With a roll crimp the consistency of the cases' trim length becomes much more important than if you use a taper crimp.

On the loading head the taper crimp die is the die that touches the shell plate. All other dies don't touch the shellplate. I feel that one die should be touching the plate to help regulate the OAL. But I don't know if it works or not.

I use the Dillon trimmer and I find that the trimmer die will squeeze the heck out of the neck. So the first station has a Lee die that opens the case mouth a little bit. This helps roll the inside burrs out and opens up the mouth to help accept the bullet. If I don't do this I find more copper shavings (from a tight or burry case mouth) on the shell plate. Copper shavings means the the case is shaving the bullet's jacket.

The taper crimp die helps ensure that the brass has enough tension to hold the bullet. Taper crimp die is $20-$30. And it adds little to no extra effort in physically operating the press. Very cheap insurance.

[LPatterson]

My feeling is that it is a personal choice and the cannelure is a hold over from old rifle loads where it was needed (30-30, 45-70). I roll crimp my 300 Apex but that is to keep the bullets in the magazine from moving with recoil. With a .223/5.56 it is probably not necessary to crimp at all for the first few loadings on the brass but Mr. Murphy has been know to put in an appearance and screw up everything. Personally I use a LEE factory crimp die because I want the same neck pressure with every round and not every brand/weight bullet has a cannelure.

[Mbauer67]

I taper crimp my 55gr blaster rounds, then put a very slight crimp onmy heavies

[Tom Freeman]

No crimp.

Plenty of neck tension to hold the bullet in place.

[whistlepig]

I always thought the cannelure was meant for accepting a roll crimp, and that a taper crimp is used on rounds without a cannelure.

Am I incorrect?

Cannelure is meant for accepting a crimp......... But I don't crimp. The cannelure is desired by some, and unused by others. Bunches of bullet makers will offer the same bullet with and without cannelures to fit both sides of the issue. Usually the part numbers are only one digit off.

To the OP, I vote with the "no crimp needed" side.

[warpspeed]

Add me to the list those who use a taper crimp die. Probably not needed but since the tool head has a spot for it I figure it is not hurting anything.

[Alaskapopo]

I don't crimp any .223.

I can guarantee my bullets aren't deformed, can you? (if you crimp)

I've loaded tens and thousands of 55-75 grain bullets with no issues.

I crimp ball ammo with cannulars. I don't crimp match loads. I do this because I have had bullets set back inside the case in feeding and that is why I crimp the ball.

Pat