mcracco Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 I'm thinking on picking up a batch of one fired 9mm WWC headstamped brass. I know this is military stuff with a crimped boxer primer. I have a few WWC headstamps in my current batch of brass and they are a royal PIA because of the crimp. But, I will be setting up a new 1050 (counting the hours) which has a de-crimping station. So my question is; if I run 100% military crimped brass through my 1050 is the de-crimping effective enough where the process will run smoothly or will I hate myself after the first hour? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 It will run smoothly, I load plenty of these, but there will be higher effort at the bottom of the stroke, as it swages the pocket. Other than this I see no issues at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 Very cool, thanks. And I pick up my brass after practices so I expect the force on the down stroke to be less second time through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Once you swage the crimp out it is done. Quick and dirty set up. Adjust down the swage rod so it is not touching the case. Put a case in the shellplate and run the shellplate down all the way. Leave it there. Adjust down the case support die until it hits the case. Now move the shellplate up and down a couple of times (dont index, just go up and down so you can turn the die down and up a little bit until you feel it hit the case, but not too hard.) Once you adjust that so it is supporting the case, then lock it down and leave it alone. Now run the toolhead down again on the case. It is now supported by the top die. Adjust up the swagerod until it hits the case. Now adjust it a little bit at a time until you can tell the swage is working. Get it to where you think it is ok. Now put it in the priming station and prime it. You will know immediately. You may get it set up where it is working and priming pretty well but as soon as you have one that mangles a primer you either don't have the swage rod up enough, or the white tab on the priming station is loose or not tight enough, keeping the case in the proper orientation to receive the primer. Hope this is helpful! Merry Christmas, DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 10-4, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 WCC is good tough brass use it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A63111 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Not all WCC brass has a crimp. I have about 5K of WCC07, no crimp. Somewhere there is a website that lists the headstamps that don't have crimps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 I got the brass in and it is nice looking stuff in very good condition. But, as I feared, it doesn't run worth crap in my 1050. I have the primer swager set as deep as it will go and it is not enough to allow consistent seating of the primer. I am getting jams galore, high primers, smashed primers, you name it. It go so bad I had to clear the machine, load a batch of commercial brass, and run 'normal' stuff as a sanity check. Cranked off 500 rounds without a glitch. So, as much as I feel like I am going backwards....the only option I see is: * Tumble and lube WCC brass * Load batch in 1050 * Resize and deprime * Pull brass off machine at swaging station (without swaging) * Manually resize primer pocket at drill press with Hornady Primer Pocket Cutter * Run brass through machine per usual I can't see where that would not yield good results. Lots of extra time with the only benefit being less effort to run brass on 1050 second time through as it is already sized. But I may well still determine it is not worth all the extra time spent and scrap the batch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Sounds like you need to adjust the case support down more. Adjust it down until you can't pull the toolhead all the way down, then adjust it up until it is tight but not so much you can't pull the toolhead down and the case is getting tweaked. Once that is adjusted, then run the swage rod up and adjust it a little bit at a time until the brass primes. Make sure your white tab in the priming station is tight on the case for best results. When you get to the point one in 200 gets mangled then you will be cooking with gas! Good luck, DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Good call. I adjusted down the upper (anvil) tool and I am now getting a more pronounced flaring of the primer pocket mouth which is allowing the primer to seat much better. Problem now is I am getting lots of high primers. If I take one of the WCC cases with a high primer and mount in my RCBS hand primer tool I can very easily seat the primer to slightly below flush. That would indicate the primer pocket is dimensioned correctly. From what I can see there is no adjusting the depth of the primer seating depth on the 1050. Any thoughts on that one? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Sugest you consult the manual. The answers to your problems were there all along. http://www.dillonhelp.com/manuals/english/Super-1050-Manual-May-2007.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Primer seating depth is adjusted by screwing the activating pin down. Work in 1/8 turn increments. It probably won't take much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 wide45: That's about as helpful as saying search for it on Google. SLM: Yup, I see it in exploded diagram but not in the lower primer assembly where you would think. Seeing the rocker that actuates the punch I found the Primer System Push Rod in the toolhead. I thought that rod was just to lock the shell plate in position. I'll give it another whirl. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Nesbitt Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 mcracco, look between the decapping/sizing die and the swage die. There is a bolt that goes down though the tool head and activates the primer seating. You can adjust it with an allen wrench from the top. Screw down for a deeper primer seating depth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 Thanks Bill, I did find that rod after SLM pointed me in right direction. I like the challenge of a new machine but I like it even better after I learn all it's nuances. Primer Push Rod has been adjusted and primer seating is now where it should be. With all these adjustments (thanks guys!)I am running relatively smoothly. Compared to commercial brass, more force it required for the sizing operation. The aggressive swaging is also giving a different feel. Overall the operation is slower but it seems I move along at a reasonable pace without primer jams. My problem now is I have too many rounds loaded and I am going to have to stop and head to the range. What a PIA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 If the swaging is causing you to have to pull harder at the bottom of the stroke you have the support down too much or the swage rod up too much. Either way you are probably swaging too much. If the brass is ok realize you will end up cracking your shellplate by putting that much pressure on it....It is a hardened piece of metal that is expensive and once you crack one it won't work properly....hint hint.... Good luck, DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 I hear you but I don't think I'm putting any stress on the shell plate. The extra force is for resizing (same as it was on my Rock Chucker). The flare I'm getting from the swaging is a little less than a typical piece of commercial brass so I don't think I am going too far. Like I say it's more of a different feel than a force. Time will tell! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Call me crazy but here we go... Swaging the crimp out was working but I wasn't 100% happy with the results. There was a fair amount of brass chafe around the swager which was crapping up the machine and the finished flare in the primer pocket wasn't as well formed as commercial brass. Couldn't help but feel I was forcing things. So I am going about it as previously threatened: * Tumble & lube * Resize, decap, pull case off machine at swaging station * Re-cut primer pocket with Hornady Primer Pocket Cutter * Load brass back on machine and process like Dillon originally intended. The decapping takes 3 sec per so it goes pretty quick. For the cutting I have the the cutter in a drill and the drill in a vice with the cutter up. I hold the brass wearing a leather glove and there is no real strain. Not removing a lot of material, just taking the sharp edge of the crimp out and making pocket somewhat uniform. I tried running with just the cutter and without swaging but that was a no-go. Dialed back in the swaging rod and I am flying. The finished flare on the primer pocket is just as nicely radiused as commercial brass and so far zero issues seating primers. Yes, this considerably more work but I have confidence with this process. Obviously I reuse my brass so I will be in great shape come time to cycle these through a second time. Fun for the feeble minded! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sauza45 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 What I did to adjust the swagger was to cut a piece of brass in half, that way there is no guessing. Put the cut brass in and adjust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 primers should seat easily IF the primer pocket is swaged properly on the 1050. and for what its worth, cut primer pockets don't hold primers as long as de-swaged ones. when sorting brass, I toss the ones that have primer pockets that have been cut instead of swaged... jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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