pmclaine Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) I have an S1050 that I reload .45ACP and will soon make 30-06 with. I have dedicated tool heads for the pistol as well as the case prep and rifle reloading. When I bought the S1050 I justified the purchase based on the assumption I was going to maintain a narrow ammunition logistics requirement based on calibers that use the same shell plate and primer size resulting in less work for caliber changes and messing with a well running machine. I will be setting up for .308 hopefully by the fall. I recently realized that I like shooting .38 enough that I want to reload for it. Buying a machine dedicated to .38 special - An SDB will cost me $600 as it should be and a 550 will be $690 as it should be. A quick change and parts for the S1050 will probably be less than the SDB but not much less. My ammo needs are as follows .45 ACP - +/- 4000 rounds per year 30-06 - +/- 600 rounds per year .308 - +/- 600 rounds per year .38 spcl - +/- 2000 rounds per year Do I have a legitimate concern about doing caliber changeovers on the S1050? I dont want to take a machine that runs great and turn it into one that as soon as I get it running good for one caliber I find I am ready to change to the next caliber and will have to chase a bunch of headaches to get the machine going again. Anyone have to make this type decision? What did you decide? This decision would be easier if I would promise not to load for anymore calibers than these four but I made that same oath when I only wanted to load for three calibers. Edited December 23, 2011 by pmclaine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngeyes Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 No brainer. As it should be 550b. FYI try N-320 for your 38spl. Clean, meters very well and shoots great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 No brainer. As it should be 550b. FYI try N-320 for your 38spl. Clean, meters very well and shoots great. That echoed my first vibe as well. For 2000 rounds/year, I wouldn't want to do a complete tear down on a 1050, that was running 3 calibers w/o changing the Shellplate. You could load your year's worth of 38 ammo on a 550 in about 4 hours. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 I'll add my sentiment to the 550B. My list includes 38Spec, 357Mag, 44Mag, 45ACP, 9mm, 40, 223 and 444Marlin. The Marlin is only a couple of hundred a year but there is a tool head for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmclaine Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 Thank you all for your time. Your counsel is appreciated. The SDB makes the least sense because I imagine in a year I'll be wanting to load for .223 and buying a 550 anyway. Changing my 1050 over just seems like a hassle and again a year from now I'd probably be wanting to add an infrequently shot caliber and asking the same question instead of spending cheap money on a 550 conversion. I'll have to see how Santa treats me and hope there is enough in my stocking to call Brian and beat the price increase. Damn you and your infernal machines Mike Dillon! look what you ahve done to an otherwise rational man and his bank account! PS to Youngeyes - I'll be loading .38 special for a Smith and Wesson 52-2. its a semi auto wadcutter gun that requires the lead to be set flush with the brass than finished with a slight taper/roll crimp over the top of the lead. Powder charges are mid range. Any experience with loading this type of round? Any dies suggested to seat WC flush than allow for a proper crimp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngeyes Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Thank you all for your time. Your counsel is appreciated. The SDB makes the least sense because I imagine in a year I'll be wanting to load for .223 and buying a 550 anyway. Changing my 1050 over just seems like a hassle and again a year from now I'd probably be wanting to add an infrequently shot caliber and asking the same question instead of spending cheap money on a 550 conversion. I'll have to see how Santa treats me and hope there is enough in my stocking to call Brian and beat the price increase. Damn you and your infernal machines Mike Dillon! look what you ahve done to an otherwise rational man and his bank account! PS to Youngeyes - I'll be loading .38 special for a Smith and Wesson 52-2. its a semi auto wadcutter gun that requires the lead to be set flush with the brass than finished with a slight taper/roll crimp over the top of the lead. Powder charges are mid range. Any experience with loading this type of round? Any dies suggested to seat WC flush than allow for a proper crimp? I remember now. You're the one that scored that sweet 52. I don't load wads but have heard 2.9-3.1 gr W231 under a 148gr works well. Use a mild crimp to help feeding. Too much crimp will FTF a wadcutter load. Dillon's seating die comes with a flat wadcutter seating insert and a separate crimp die. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmclaine Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 (edited) I remember now. You're the one that scored that sweet 52. I don't load wads but have heard 2.9-3.1 gr W231 under a 148gr works well. Use a mild crimp to help feeding. Too much crimp will FTF a wadcutter load. Dillon's seating die comes with a flat wadcutter seating insert and a separate crimp die. YMMV. As with any gun purchase its the accessories that really kill your wallet. The 52-2 only requires me to insert a magazine and point it in the general direction of the target to make nice groups. Its an amazing gun. Its causing me to depart my limited caliber selection. I picked up some Sellier and Belliot .38 mid range wadcutter. They will fire but they dont feed semi auto in the 52-2 hence my desire to reload. This is the first time I fired it. Had to hand cycle each round (frustrating) and did not move the sights from the previous owners settings. It may not be much of a group to the regular pistoleros here but I hate to admit its not bad for me. I think I can do better with some sight adjustments and ammo that will feed. I have other guns (S&W 27-2, Colt Police Positive, S&W Model 36)that I never shoot just because I never have ammo on hand. I will also get more use out of them if I start loading .38. Edited December 24, 2011 by pmclaine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread1911 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 I only load on a RL 1050 so while I completely understand the issue between switching primer setups (30 minutes) I like the fact that I have both. For me if the cost of converting the 1050 to small primers and the tool heads was less than a new press I would convert. After all if you don't you will eventually spend the money to convert for the .223 anyway. Converting the 1050 will be less overall cost and likely less overall time. Even converting the priming system I can do a complete caliber conversion in about 40 minutes assuming the tool heads are complete and ready to simply put on the machine. Just my 2 cents of personal experience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Get the 550. For all the above listed reasons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 You have the ultimate machine to load precision ammo with a pull of the handle. You have to ask yourself a couple of questions, and none of these are meant to be personal... Are you the type of guy that can and likes to do things yourself, do you get impatient, can you read the manual? Once you do things a couple of times and make some notes are you comfortable doing it? It is really easy to change the priming system, and you should clean the raceway out periodically anyway. You change the punch out, primer slide, and inner primer tube. That is it. Once you have the toolhead off you loosen four screws and the nut comes off. You then take off the loaded round arm and the shellplate pops off. What I am trying to say is that if you are moderately mechanically inclined then you wont have any problem switching it over, and the more times you do it the easier it gets. If that doesn't suit your personality, then get a 650 or a LNL. Going to a 550 after having a progressive that auto indexes sounds like a recipe for disaster ( squibs or double charges) unless you can really pay attention. Then after loading 2K on the manual index 550, you will look at the 1050 sitting there, and hit yourself on the head, ala V8 and say...Damn, I could have switched over, loaded the ammo, and switched back already.... Just something to think about before you make your decision... Merry Christmas! DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 My suggestion, for what it's worth, is to buy a bit more brass and stock up on ammo. In the OP's situation, for 2k a year for the .38 Special, I'd just stick with the 1050. Instead of buying a second priming system, I'd just process the cases on the press then prime them with a hand primer. However, if buying a second press for the other primer size is an issue, I'd consider buying a 650 without the casefeeder, using the 1050's he already owns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 What I am trying to say is that if you are moderately mechanically inclined then you wont have any problem switching it over, and the more times you do it the easier it gets. DougC I agree. While it may not suit every personality type, I think that it pays dividends to know the press well, and detail cleaning it is the best possible way to learn. I wonder if many of the threads about 1050 issues would dissappear if people were not afraid to strip it down periodicly. I find detail cleaning some guns far more complicated than the 1050. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread1911 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 My suggestion, for what it's worth, is to buy a bit more brass and stock up on ammo. In the OP's situation, for 2k a year for the .38 Special, I'd just stick with the 1050. Instead of buying a second priming system, I'd just process the cases on the press then prime them with a hand primer. However, if buying a second press for the other primer size is an issue, I'd consider buying a 650 without the casefeeder, using the 1050's he already owns. this is a very good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 .45 ACP - +/- 4000 rounds per year 30-06 - +/- 600 rounds per year .308 - +/- 600 rounds per year .38 spcl - +/- 2000 rounds per year If I loaded 12 rounds/week of 30-06 and .308, I'd load them on a single stage press. I can load 4,000 rounds of 9mm major ammo in 12 - 14 hours on my Square Deal - that's one hour per month. My time is not too valuable (I'm almost retired) but my time would have to be Very Valuable (earn $200/hr?) before I'd worry about spending an hour a month reloading .45 or .38. I'm really not sure why you have a 1050 and load so few rounds/year? I'd go with two SD's set up permanently to .38 and .45, and a single stage for the few rifle rounds I reload. Good luck, Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 .45 ACP - +/- 4000 rounds per year 30-06 - +/- 600 rounds per year .308 - +/- 600 rounds per year .38 spcl - +/- 2000 rounds per year I'm really not sure why you have a 1050 and load so few rounds/year? I'd go with two SD's set up permanently to .38 and .45, and a single stage for the few rifle rounds I reload. Good luck, Jack Sometimes people shelve the max/min equation and simply buy the best tooling without regard for the initial cost. My personal argument is that the cost of tooling is an upfront cost, but the costs of buying inferior tooling is an enduring cost. If you intend to reload for many years to come, sometimes it's wise to overspend upfront. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmclaine Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) .45 ACP - +/- 4000 rounds per year 30-06 - +/- 600 rounds per year .308 - +/- 600 rounds per year .38 spcl - +/- 2000 rounds per year I'm really not sure why you have a 1050 and load so few rounds/year? I'd go with two SD's set up permanently to .38 and .45, and a single stage for the few rifle rounds I reload. Good luck, Jack Sometimes people shelve the max/min equation and simply buy the best tooling without regard for the initial cost. My personal argument is that the cost of tooling is an upfront cost, but the costs of buying inferior tooling is an enduring cost. If you intend to reload for many years to come, sometimes it's wise to overspend upfront. ^^^^^^^^^This and the fact that all my rifle brass is military crimped. I didnt want a third step in my rifle process. Santa gave me an allowance to spend. I looked at my bench and I think my life would be easier without extra clutter. I do like to read directions and take my time doing mechanical stuff. I have decided I am going to increase my .45 brass supply to double what I have for ammo on hand perhaps to a point I only need to load it once a year. I'll be calling Brian regards a 1050 tool head, small primer system and .38 dies this week. Are the 2010 prices still in effect? PS, Geez Louise! Just spreadsheeted the .38 Conversion as a quick change (see my attached spreadsheet, please let me know if I am missing anything) $878.90 Add $60 to Power Factor for a neato tool head stand to the total. Ouch! Oh well, I hope to live for another 40 years or so of shooting. $878 will only get me about 35 boxes (1750 rds) of mid range wadcutter for my 52-2 (pricing I see is >$25/box of 50). I'll depreciate the cost of this over many years and someday it will have paid for itself. Not looking forward to having to buy my .308 conversion. 38 conversion word.doc Edited December 26, 2011 by pmclaine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 You dont need the conversion unless you want it. Look in the caliber change pages in the manual. It tells you what parts you need to convert to different calibers. Buy what you need to convert....another option. Regards, DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread1911 Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) Where do you find the 'Power Factor' tool head stand for the 1050 tool heads? I have been using cardboard boxes for years and would love an upgrade. Perhaps Uncle Google knows. Update he did but they are currently out of stock. http://www.powerfactorshooting.com/product_p/tool-head-stand.htm I will have 2 when they come back in stock. Much nicer than the cardboard I am using today. Edited December 26, 2011 by Retread1911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmclaine Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 Doug - Thank you for the advice I will look into that but I dont think there is much from .45 to .38 that will switch over. I'm not sure but in the conversion kit I'd assume the high priced items are the shell plate and the swage rod backer die and I dont think I will be getting by without those or lucky enough that they would match a .45 ACP setup. Retread - I saw that the stands are back ordered but I ordered anyway. I have two and they are great for keeping things safe from damage and organized. They are pretty solid and weighty - they may not be worth $60 but they feel like it. I think they have been backordered for awhile. I dont know if he only does limited production runs when the orders justify it or maybe they are never to be had again. I guess we will find out after the holiday. Your order can only help the builder get motivated. Thank you for pushing my one into the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmclaine Posted December 27, 2011 Author Share Posted December 27, 2011 Order made for the .38 conversion. The way it is dealing with Brian Enos I'll probably have my stuff by the end of the week and more than likely before he has my money. Such a great buying experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noylj Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 I wouldn't stick any of my friends with a crippled machine like the SDB or the 550B. I've looked at the SDB (in the Dillon store so I did "use" it and cycled a few rounds) and used a 550b and disliked both. Do you REALLY want a 4-station press? After all this time, do you REALLY want to consider a manual-indexing press? I don't find the caliber conversion that bad on the 1050. Now, if you only load a couple of 100 of each cartridge and switch over more than once a week, then the caliber conversion is a pain and you don't NEED a 1050. If you have established loads for the .45 and rifles, load a large stock of them and then convert to .38 Special and play with it to your heart's content to find loads you like while working through your stockpile. I would save a lot of time and frustration and buy a Hornady L-N-L for small primer operations until I "needed" to get another 1050, but that is just me. It is super easy to make caliber conversions, is much less expensive, yet, in my experience, very close to the 650XL (in fact, since the 650 I used did not have a case feeder, it was superior). I read a lot of whining about the L-N-L, but none of it matches my experiences. Don't buy a 550B or 650XL without a case feeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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