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spray lube affects powder?


Peter K

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Hi,

yesterday I loaded some practice ammo. Put some cases in a box and sprayed some Dillon spray lube on them. Immediately after spraying I started loading the rounds.

Today I had some squib loads within these round.

How long do I have to wait after spraying the lube on the cases bevore loading? Are 5 minutes long enough? Does the lube affect the burning of the powder?

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With the Dillon lube, shake the brass around a bit in the box so that everything coats evenly. Then load. I do the same when I spray Hornady One Shot.

As for the squibs, was their powder in the round or were they primer only? I ask only because I don't think that lube causes squibs (however, I could be wrong, but haven't had any yet).

Rich

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Peter,

I tape a paper towel into a box and spray the towel with the lube. Then place the brass in the box and shake it for a minute. Seems to work and I don't have to wait for the lube to dry out. No squibs either.

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Half the time the spray goes directly into the mouth of the case. I've loaded several thousand with the One Shot now and never had a squib. Check your powder measure setup. A far more likely culprit....

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I lay cases in a box where they are all laying on their sides. Spray with One Shot liberally and shake them around. I try to keep lube out of the case mouths. Shouldn't hurt powder but I worry about the lube causing bullet set back. Definately check your powder measure. TXAG

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I had a similar experience with the Dillon case lube. A few years ago I purchased some and appiled it as directed to some 9mm cases. I do not know the exact number, but out of approximately 200 rounds there were probably 50 rounds that were severely under power. The bullet would leave the barrel, but the gun would not cycle. It was a Colt 1911 in 9mm. Stopped using the case lube and the problem went away.

I still have some left. What I do now is apply the lube directly to the seating die and crimp die directly using a Q-Tip. I have not had any problems using this method.

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Peter- I have been using Hornady one shot for a year. The only reason that I have had any squibs, is because I was using a Lee loader. Since I bought a 650 from Brian, I havn't had a squib since. I put all of my cases into a plastic shoe box, and spray a ton of lube on them. Then I let them dry and shake them up and spray them again. I probably use too much lube, but I am not having any problems with squibs. I've put 6k+ rounds through my 650 (I just got it) and the powder measure has yet to fail me. I'm with Eric & ditto, look else where for your problem. ;)

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I find that a little one shot inside the case helps alot. When I am reloading the powder station on the 550 seems to have the most resistance, I think it is when the case mouth gets flared it seems to hang up a little, but with the one shot it's like butter. when I first tried it I thought I had forgotten to put cases in it.

And I have never had a squib, knock on wood, then again I have only about 10,000 rnds under my belt.

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OK, just to put this issue to bed (I hope), I'm going to load up some "lube jobs" and hose the crap out the insides with lube - both One Shot and Dillon.

I know the One Shots will all go bang. We'll see about the Dillon stuff.

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EricW:

Please also check some loaded rounds for bullet-setback/no-bullet-setback, and say what caliber&bullet type, which press & dies.

I can say without hesitation that 40cal jacketed bullets, sized .400", in MY press, a Dillon Square Deal, will nearly ALWAYS set back if there is substantial lube inside the case mouth. All brands of brass. Probably happen with .401" bullets but I don't have any to try.

What never sets back (for me) are lead bullets, moly bullets, and any bullet in a non-lubed case mouth. Never in nickel-plated cases either.

Thanks

PS - I only use Hornady One-Shot. Wax is for surfboards.

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Dunno about the Dillon lube, never used it.

One shot has no discernable effect on powder or primers, even when grossly misapplied.

I lubed the holy crap out of some loaded ammo, soaked it and left it to stew n it's own juices in a ziploc bag for something like a week ( no , I did not let the carrier evaporate before closing the bag. )

No defects noted. ( this is the way we say " didn't see nuthin " at work )

Travis F.

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OK, here's what happened with my squib-o-rama testing with Dillon Spray lube.

I bascially had to damn-near fill the cases with Dillon lube to make squibs. I sprayed the cases so that the insides were covered with lube. Then, after priming I filled the cases about 1/8 full of Dillon spray lube, then I loaded them as usual. I had no bullet set back issues, but then again, my 40 is well set-up and I don't have those kind of issues.

All the rounds were slow-to-fire or did not ignite at all. This is simply because the primers were contaminated (read drenched) with wet lube. The rounds that did ignite had enough pressure to expel the bullet from the barrel.

I don't mean to hurt anyone's feelings here, but I really feel the only way that Dillon lube can cause squibs is through gross misapplication to make the interiors of the cases so wet that the primer is contaminated. There is just no earthly reason to use that much lube. And if you do, the only solution required is to wait for the alcohol carrier to dry, then load normally.

I plan to keep using Hornaday One Shot on my pistol brass and be totally unconcerned about squib loads. If I should inadvertently run out, I'll use the Dillon lube sparingly and remain equally unconcerned.

My $0.02.

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This is how i "lube" my brass before i put them in the case-feeder of my XL650:

I don't spray the Dillon lube directly over the brass, ..... i have a plastic box where, (when it is Empty), i spray the Dillon lube, after this i put in this box all the brass i want to load, .... and 30 seconds of a little shake.

Before the start, i load the primer tubes, check the press, ecc.

In this way the brass are waiting 4 or 5 minutes, now i put the lubed brass in the case-feeder, and the Blue baby go.

This little trick make the spray lube ONLY where it is necessary, (not in the brass, .... where there will be only the powder). B)

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BE,

I use the Dillon lube only when I'm loading .223 (I like Hornady One-Shot for the pistol calibers), and tumble the rounds after. It helps get the residue of lube off, and makes the rounds more slippery for FAST SHOOTIN'! :angry::D

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[slightThreadDrift]

Do those using Dillon's lube tumble it off before shooting the rounds?

[/sTD]

be

Brian,

I usually tumble off the Dillon, but now I'm getting tempted to tumble off everything including the OneShot. I had major mag malfs a couple weeks ago partially because of lube buildup (One Shot - you could feel the grease in the mags). I might institute a more rigid mag cleaning regimen instead. I had a hell of a time getting that gook out of my mags.

[special Thanks go to Kimel who selflessly loaned me his Arredondo mag brush.]

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I forgot to say nice work on the lube testing/breakdown!

I never tumbled off the One Shot, but I did always clean every mag immediately after it hit the ground (in a match). But I never used a brush - I used a shop rag and a screwdriver. Pop the spring out and stuff the rag through the mag with the screwdriver. I'd pack the rag in there nice an tight before pulling it out the other end.

(Lots of "always" and "never's" in there...)

;)

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As long as were are slightly drifting.

I leave the Hornady One Shot on. (I've never tried Dillon lube)

As for mag cleaning...I have to share Anderson's helpful trick. He has a 12 gauge Bore-snake that he keeps in his range bag. Pull that thru the mag a few times and you are golden. Quick and easy. ;)

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Ohhh, the 12 ga bore-snake - he's taking it to a whole new level.

Back in the day, all us poor mechanics had were old, used shop rags. Why we even pinned our grip safety's by using masking tape we found in the garbage can...

;)

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