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Flashlights & Flashlight Stages


lndshrk

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Regarding the Surefire method and so-called cigar method, I think the main difference (That I have seen) is the placement of the tail end of the light in relation to the hand. With the Surefire hold, the tail cap is depressd with the meaty portion of the palm or even the very base of the thumb. The cigar method dictates the tail cap be depressed with the thumb between the knuckle and first joint, basically the same manipulation as using a syringe.

Here is a great page describing the different holds

http://www.surefire.com/articles-handheld_techniques

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No details on the SureFire or "cigar" hold on that page at all. I was surprised to hear you refer to the SureFire and "cigar" hold as two separate entities. I've always heard the "cigar" hold properly referred to as the Rogers/SureFire technique. As to how the tail cap activation switch is depressed, I had John Matthews himself, the president of SureFire, demonstrate the Rogers/SureFire/cigar technique to me not all that terribly long after it was invented, and he demonstrated activating the light with the drumstick of the hand, not the thumb.

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I use what that Sure-Fire website calls the Neck-Index Technique (well, similar...I don't really use the neck as an index, but I end up in about the same place).

It is one handed, so you have to have that down. Many of the two handed techniques...really aren't. They have you making some goofy contact with the off-hand. Your only control is really with the strong hand...which you've (hopefully) practiced some. Those so called two-handed techniques just make the gun track differently...from the odd contact. Some have been known to bang the mag release and drop the mag out of the gun at a...bad time.

If you can get away with dangling the light off your wrist like Matt mentions...cool. You can then get a normal two handed grip on the gun. The dangling weight of the light will be a bit different than usual, but that is a small trade off. But, you can't always do so.

I shot an indoor stage at Miamisburg where we were shooting from about 20y or more. A dangling light would not have worked (too dark, too far). Besides, the light provided was a big old Mag-lite. I was able to get light on my sights, as well as the targets.

Experiment with everything.

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Duane,

My refrence to the page was to show examples of the different types of flashlight holds, not necessarilly the Surefire/Rogers and or Cigar hold. Sorry for the confusion. You may be correct in that they are both the same. Personally, I dont like the term "cigar hold" because I feel it is easy to misinterrept. I also agree that the "drumstick" part of the hand is what is taught, and works best.

Something I did to help with my hold was to crazy glue the rubber grommet 1/2 way down the light (Surefire 6Z). This helps the grommet stay in place and allows me to activate the light with more ease. If the grommet is all the way to the rear, I felt like I had to use more pressure to activate the light and keep it on while shooting.

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I am with Flex on this one, The flashlight neck hold stong hand on the pistol works best for me. Fast and sure particulay on Close targets. When some distance is required those cross hand holds never gave me any extra support and shot worse than Stong hand only.

I have been playing with the Marine Corps method as detailed in Surefires article. Using a big heavy Mag Lite it seems to give me more support. Can see it of advantage on stages that are longer distance. Besides the M 10 Smith stowed in the kitchen has a Mag Lite beside it. Might as well get familar with it.

Boats

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When shooting with a flashlight in IDPA I use one of these.

I like this, I'm going to have to pick one up and try it out.

I've got to find some time to read the Surefire articles

Thanks much!!

:cheers:

headlamp.jpg.bmp

what about one of these? are they legal for any matches?

These are not legal

Tried it a couple of times and got a real funny look from the RO.

Then went back to the shooting bag to grab the flash light.

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I have shot enough low light stages to see many where dangling the flashlight will not work. Targets are just too far away. What has worked for me is to find a flashlight that clicks on and stays on via the end cap. Then I use a syringe technique and grab the gun in my usual two handed hold. The end of the light is not against the meaty portion or "drumstick" of my weak hand thumb but instead against the fingers of my strong hand. Just like my normal firing grip except with the index and middle finger of my support hand are spread apart to allow the light to sit in there. At the 07 IDPA nationals they required you to turn off the light during a reload. First time I encountered this. I just clicked it off with my thumb as I took my weak hand off the gun and back on after the reload. Works better for me than the end caps that require constant pressure to stay on.

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  • 9 months later...

Since posting some time ago have refined my methods for our clubs upcoming in the dark match. I recommend proving your technique on paper daylight with your light hand held switched off. Best way to see whats effective is compare groups.

About any small flashlight will work if, The tail cap clicks on, the body of the light is small were it goes between your fingers, and it has a wide flood beam with no hot spots.

Spot beam there is a strong tendency to try to center the light when all you need is enough light to see the target. Flood is best, the targets are not going to be far away and gives wide latitude in the way the light is held. Smaller the body of the light is better your grip is going to be. Holding the tail cap down to keep it lit just gives you something else to worry about, twist takes two hands, click on is the fastest. Many lights now have a pulse then click switch which is about perfect for me.

Considering COF will be different match to match I have settled on Neck index hold Strong hand shooting if the targets are short and fast and a very close approximation of my regular two hand free style hold for anything that requires precision. Either one practice drawing the light from a holster or pocket or start hand held depending on the rules. For reloads you need some way to hold the light secure with no fumbling. Surefires combat rings are very effective as is a small wrist lanyard. Smaller the light is better you are going to be able to reload. I don't find revolver with moon clips is any more difficult than a magazine.

I keep a G2 LED Surefire thats been converted to click switch and a combat ring in my range bag but lately have been using a Ra Clicky from HDS Systems. Better to go to a night match with two lights.

Boats

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