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Best 1911, on a tight budget???


Jeremiah

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How come no one has mentioned Dan Wesson? They seem to make a very high quality 1911 in the price bracket with springfield and kimber. I have seen a few with chip mccormick insides.

This is who I meant to say when I said that charles daly had chip insides, not CD, but DW.

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How come no one has mentioned Dan Wesson? They seem to make a very high quality 1911 in the price bracket with springfield and kimber. I have seen a few with chip mccormick insides.

I've yet to see one in person and I don't know anyone personally who owns or has shot one. I've read online that they're good guns, though.

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Guest Larry Cazes

Too much talking and not enough shooting! :D Go out to a range that rents and try out some of the options that we've all suggested and then make the decision to buy the one that fits YOU best. There's a big learning curve in this sport and the sooner you start, the better off you'll be. Above all, Have fun with it since it is just a game.

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Here are some other things to consider:

The Kimber series II guns have a firing pin block (activated by the grip safety).  Some people report problems with them (I definitely had some trouble with mine), and since they are an unnecessary feature, I think it's best to get a gun without it since it's just something else that can fail or otherwise create headaches.  The Springfield guns do not have a firing pin block, and the little "lock" in the mainspring housing is benign if you leave it unlocked.

I have three Kimber Series I guns and frankly I'm not interested in owning a Series II for the above reasons. But for someone in the market for a new blaster I wouldn't let the FP safey in the SII stop me. It's easily uninstalled. It's not the same crappy system as the Scwhartz FP safety in 80's series Colts.

Another thing is the grip safety.  Springfield uses an S&A high grip beavertail (or a clone thereof), which is a really good thing.  Kimber uses their own grip safety and it does not allow you grip as high on the frame as you can with the S&A or Ed Brown, or similar beaver tail.  If all else were equal, that alone would steer me toward the Springfield gun because I've had to have new beavertails fit to Kimbers so I can grip them the way I like.

I agree here too. I hate the Kimber GS and have had Ed Brown's installed on mine. On the other side of the coin though, Springfields have a crappy front strap and quite a few shooters have them recut for a higher radius under the tigger guard.

The other thing you need to consider is the addition of a magwell. Reloads on the clock just ain't fun without one. A drop in S&A will suite for a time but eventually you'll at least want it opened up and blended which will add to the cost of your gun.

This brings me back to my original post above and my point about using a Mil Spec as a base gun. Save on the initial cost of the gun and invest in making it right for you. You can have a great semi-custom 1911 for under $1000 if you spend some time thinking about what you want and discussing the options with a good pistolsmith.

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But for someone in the market for a new blaster I wouldn't let the FP safey in the SII stop me. It's easily uninstalled. It's not the same crappy system as the Scwhartz FP safety in 80's series Colts.

Actually, you're right that it's not like the Series 80 Colt's and Para-Ordnance (deactivated by the trigger), but the Kimber version is almost identical to the old Schwartz firing pin safety (which was also deactivated by pressing the grip safety).

Neither one of them is necessary in my opinion, and they both provide extra opportunities for malfunction. I have a Commander that just would not work with the Series 80 parts installled, so out they went.

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Hey guys, Dan wesson, what do you think? I just read the 1911forums review and they liked it. I see that they have some very quality parts inside, as in STI and McCormick triggers, safeties, and mags. They are also cheaper than the sprinfield and the kimbers.

What do you think?

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Hey guys, Dan wesson, what do you think? I just read the 1911forums review and they liked it. I see that they have some very quality parts inside, as in STI and McCormick triggers, safeties, and mags. They are also cheaper than the sprinfield and the kimbers.

What do you think?

Yea I have read all the good stuff about them.

The two that I have seen in person, you could have given me MAYBE!

Both were JUNK, one the slide felt like it came complete with GRAVEL in the rails

I kid you not, It would actually hang up while retacting or releasing the slide. I wanted to take the slide off that gun SO BAD!

The other had a trigger problem that I dont recall.

BOTH those guns I saw about 2yrs ago though so they may have gotten that worked out....

I Also saw them at the IDPA Nats the year that they got into 1911s....Those guns were OK & well fit too though.

If you notice that the Gun Rags are not jumping up and down about something new or cool ....most likely they know they are there and have tested them.....

And like one well known gun writer (not on this forum) told me ........

MAYBE WE DONT HAVE ANYTHING GOOD TO SAY!

There has been quite a bit written about them though..back when they came out anyway.

I think youre in a hit and miss area with these low dollar 1911s and until you realy KNOW what your looking for in 1911 from experience your just really SOL.

Make sure all the controls work Make sure it has what you want on it or know what getting it done will cost ....that you should be able to do!

I can tell you to check for slide tightness .....Until you know the difference between a SVI fit, a too loose fit and a decent fit you just dont understand. I have seen them so loose that the slide stop....wouldnt! and everyone has seen a Bear.

If you havent seen an accu rail gun though..... WOW!

Check the barrel lockup in front and on the hood, see above again

Look at how well everything is fit.....It most likely will NOT look like a custom gun for 600 - 1200 but there is acceptable and HOLY CRAP WHAT HAPPEND TO THIS GUN

Like I said until you know something about them youre kinda SOL

Like someone said EVERYONE makes a lemon, All the majors will stand behind it and fix it though....its just a PITA to go through.

By all means stay with the 45.

Larry P

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I had the chance to look at some guns this weekend when the gun show was in town. I had a springfield loaded full size and a dan wesson patriot side by side. The fit and finish was better on the patriot. No two ways about it. I know this is just two guns, and the next two could be totally different, but it really opened my eyes.

As of now, I'm seriously pursuing a dan wesson. I liked what I saw.

I can't find a new one anywhere but "Dan wesson direct" on gunbroker. Does anyone know of any dealers that has one in stock?

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Hello all.

I was fighting with myself recently on how to afford a IDPA ESP 1911. I wanted a .38 Super from a decent name brand manufacturer. I looked at two main options. The first option was to buy a $450 Springfield Mil-Spec and then add all the stuff I wanted, like a grip safety, ambi safety, better sights, trigger job, FLGR, mag well and re-cut the front strap higher. I don't remember the exact cost total, but I think all said and done it was around $1100 for this option.

Option two was to buy a new Kimber II in .38 Super and not really do anything to it. The cost of this option varied depending on what gunshop I went to but it was still around $1100. I was thinking this was the better way to go since I could just start shooting it and not have any work to do to the gun, but it meant waiting longer to save the money.

Dollar wise the two were about the same. Unfortunatly I found a used series one Kimber Classic Target for $500 and I couldn't refuse to let it at the gunshop. This means I have another CDP gun (which I didn't need). I guess the moral to the story is keep shopping around, you can find some good deals if you look for them.

Good luck.

-LG

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OK, I hate to re-open this thread, but here's what I'd recommend:

I just saw a really nice Kimber for $599 brand-spanky new.

Blued with very attractive wood grips. Fixed Heinie sights. It has the firing pin lock system, but I think that's easily dispensed with. Also has a standard 1911 extractor. Tight as a damned bank vault. Every bit as good as my STI. Unfortunately, it's a bushing gun, not a bull barrel (my preference), but it's gun that would be very hard to go wrong with.

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Hey guys, thanks for all the advice. I just ordered a smith and wesson 1911. I hope I like it.

It comes with wilson mags. Are these some pretty good ones? I need at least one more, which one should I get? Price is a factor, of course.

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It comes with wilson mags. Are these some pretty good ones? I need at least one more, which one should I get? Price is a factor, of course.

Wilson or McCormick Power Mags are the best choices.

Three mags is the bare minimum for IDPA, but you will want more to make it easier to shoot matches, especially if they have multiple strings like the Classifier. You will definitely want more mags if you shoot in USPSA, steel challenge, NRA Action Pistol, etc.

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I ran 100 rds through the smith tonight. No failures whatsever.

The only problem I'm having right now is dropping the slide with just one thumb. The slide release is incrdibly stiff. Is there anything I can do? Or, do I just wait for it to loosen up on it's own?

Also, what is the set screw in the trigger for? Overtravel or take up?

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The only problem I'm having right now is dropping the slide with just one thumb. The slide release is incrdibly stiff. Is there anything I can do? Or, do I just wait for it to loosen up on it's own?

Strange. It shouldn't be that difficult.

I don't mean to insult your intelligence :( but you're talking about dropping the slide on a full magazine, right? Not when the gun's empty. If the latter, you are taking the empty magazine out of the gun first, right?

Also, what is the set screw in the trigger for? Overtravel or take up?

Overtravel.

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Thanks for insulting my intelligence, you taught me something...

Thanks again.

By the way, this gun has a much better trigger on it than the Springfield custom full size and the kimber Target II. The springfield was much heavier, and the kimber had all kinds of creep. I think I got the best trigger out of all three of these guns.

The only thing that may of gotten me to buy a springfield was the fact that it had a ambi safety and has a high luster finish.

The kimber is over priced from what I have seen shopping around the last several weeks.

I got the smith because of the creepless trigger, the three dot sights, and the external extractor. It also has a 3 to 4.5 pound trigger, the springer has a 5 to 6 pounder. The kimber sights are too small, and they run about $100 bucks more that the other two.

But, the only reason I didn't get a Dan Wesson Patriot is because I couldn't find one to buy.

I balanced the decision over and over, and the smith was the right 1911 for me and my needs.

Thanks for everyone in this thread that helped me with my search.

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Good for you. I'm not crazy about any new business going to S&W, but I'm glad you got a quality product. (I'm cooling off, but know many others that are still mad at them).

Keep us posted on how it performs.

You might not have seen this. They've got a recall out for a specific range of serial numbers (JRD0000 to JRD4750)

http://smithwesson.ws/contentbuilder/layou...y50.content#0.0

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I've shot one of the S&W 1911's. Frankly, I wasn't impressed. Slide to frame fit was really loose. Later that night during the match the gun locked up hard. I believe that this was a gun within the SN run mentioned above. He was less than pleased with S&W's customer service but YMMV. Beside all that the roll marks are about the ugliest things I've ever seen. Especially the safety notice. I'll stick with S&W revolvers thank you. My $.02 worth. B)

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  • 2 months later...

I've seen a couple references for a bull barrelled gun here. IIRC, IDPA won't allow bull barrels on anything longer than an Officer's Model. Maybe the rules have changed since I last looked.

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I'm not really thrilled about the Kimbers. One of the attorneys here bought one new a few months ago and promptly sold it becuause it wouldn't feed ball ammo. At the gunsmith shop I used to work at, customers would bring in Kimbers quite a bit b/c they wouldn't feed and/or shoot. We would always tell the customer to send it back to Kimber and to their credit, Kimber fixed them under warranty. It has been my experience that the Kimbers are either hit or miss. You either get a good one or a bad one.

The Dan Wesson 1911s I've handled and shot I was not impressed with. Poor fit and finish.

Springfield makes very good 1911s, even their Basic model. That was my first 1911 and it still runs like a champ. A Springfield would be my 1st, 2nd and 3rd choice.

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Although this topic is just about wrapped up, I had one last question. I would also like to purchase a 1911 for competition. I can only shoot IDPA (just started a couple months ago) for the next year since there are no IPSC clubs nearby, but I will be moving in a year or so - hopefully somewhere I can shoot both IPSC and IDPA. What configuration 1911 would be best for IPSC competition? I don't have any reloading equipment, and I'm not sure that I really want to hassle with it. Do people shoot .45 in IPSC, or only .38 Super or downloaded .40 to meet the minimum power factor? Dare I even mention 9mm (from what I understand 9mm can't make 'major', which puts it at a disadvantage)?

Thanks for any advice!! This forum is an unbelievable wealth of knowledge.

Edit: I forgot this was in the IDPA forum... so I apologize for an IPSC oriented question. I plan to use the gun for IDPA also, but I know that any caliber will be fine.

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