How to make a car last for a long, long time?

[Pro2AInPA]

Any car experts here?

I drive a 2004 Mazda 6 that currently has 93,000 miles on it.

I do not want to buy a new car for years and years to come. In fact, I'd like to make this car last to 175,000-200,000 miles.

I always keep up with oil changes, alignments, etc.

What other things should I be doing/be having done to make this car last as long as possible?

[TruStreet]

I have a 1994 Camery with 250,000 miles on it & it doesn't burn any oil between oil changes.

If its an auto, change the trans fluid every 50,000 miles. While your at change the rear end oil at the same time. That & keep it tuned.

[Pro2AInPA]

I have a 1994 Camery with 250,000 miles on it & it doesn't burn any oil between oil changes.

If its an auto, change the trans fluid every 50,000 miles. While your at change the rear end oil at the same time. That & keep it tuned.

Thanks for the reply.

Man I don't know cars. What he #$%^ is rear end oil?

And what's involved in keeping a car "tuned"?

[Putty]

I have a 92 honda civic with 260k on it. We changed the oil every 3-5k. Doesnt burn oil and no problems. Had the distributer burn up last week and a muffler fall off. Still gets 42 mpg.

[MarkCO]

Well, you would have had to start a long time ago. That said, Mazadas have decent longevity.

The problem is, I can tell you do use fuel injector cleaner, switch to synthetic fluids in the drive train, lube the CV joints regulary, etc. But, if you have not already done these, starting can free up a bunch of crud and actually SHORTEN the lifespan.

Short answer, is keep doing what you are doing since you already have almost 100K. If you are not, strat lubing the suspension and check the CV boots for tears. If you have not done a brake job, do a complete one including a flush and fluid change. 100K is also a good time to change the sprak plugs and plug wires. Your shocks are probably shot if they are original, which will increase tire and suspension wear. I'd have them checked if you don't know how and replace if they are worn out. Clean the battery terminals and use one of the anti-corrosion sprays. Make sure your battery is in good condition. Low CCAs, will cause premature wear on starters.

I don't care which oil you are using, keep using it, every 3K and add nothing to it. Don't use Fram filters (they are terrible). Purolator, Wix, MotorCraft, AC/Declo are okay and available. Everytime you change your oil, use a cheap ($2 or so) fuel injection cleaner in the gas. DON'T use one of the good ones ($6 or so) as again, they can free too much crap too fast.

If you have not done and fluid/flush service of the radiator or transmission, best advice is to let it be becasue you are already WAY poast service intervals and have crud built up. New fluid has detergents that will free this crud up and then

There is a ton of marketing crap out there that Americans beleive, don't fall for it.

[MarkCO]

I have a 1994 Camery with 250,000 miles on it & it doesn't burn any oil between oil changes.

If its an auto, change the trans fluid every 50,000 miles. While your at change the rear end oil at the same time. That & keep it tuned.

50K is too late! 30K.

FWD cars, Camry and the subject Mazada don't have "rear end oil".

If you change the electronic parts (plugs, wires, dist cap), the ECM on your Mazda (and the 94 Camry) will keep it "tuned" with no input for you.

[Pro2AInPA]

So if I take my car to a mechanic next week, I should tell him to:

1. Check the suspension

2. Change the trans fluid

3. Check the plugs and wires

Anything else? I had 4 new tires and an alignment a few months ago. I installed a new battery a year ago.

Edited February 4, 2011 by Pro2AInPA

[TMC]

Just to add to what has been said, keep the car clean. Dirt gets into the moving areas and grinds on things. If you live where there is snow the road salt will destroy your car long before the drivetrain wears out. Dirt builds up in places you wouldn't believe and stays there holding water. When you wash your car hose out the wheel wells, the underside where you can and clean the enging compartment once in a while. Keeping things clean lets you see if something is leaking or starting to and where its comming from. For the engine compartment I use that purple cleaner, it works really well. You can spray it on the engine and the compartment and hose it off when its warm with no ill effects, just start it when you're done to dry things off. Don't do it when its hot but when it cold it harder to get the goo off.

Clean around the doors, hinges and weather strips, small rocks get trapped in the lower seals and grinds them up as they compress and then they leak.

Regular maintenace, oil, lube is your best bet for long life.

[MarkCO]

So if I take my car to a mechanic next week, I should tell him to:

1. Check the suspension

2. Change the trans fluid

3. Check the plugs and wires

Anything else? I had 4 new tires and an alignment a few months ago. I installed a new battery a year ago.

Suspension, shocks, brakes, CV joints.

If you have NOT ever changed the tranny fluid, DON'T. If you have once or twice already, then yes. Add fluid if low to the tranny, power steering, radiator (temp check). Check the brake fluid, top off it okay, flush and fill if not.

Check Plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap.

Edited February 4, 2011 by MarkCO

[AlamoShooter]

Taking care of the oils is important , but just as important is -How- you drive it. most of us get the car/truck up to diving speed too quickly. Like a race to next stop light

Quick starts are known to be the hardest on a drive train. Running it hot is hard on the parts and from what I read that is ware the synthetic helps = like in our guns the synthetic stays slippery hot and cold better.

And! Like Mark said about an older motor and synthetic in 1980 I put the new Mobil 1 in my truck and left for California buy the time I got to Odessa the rear main seal had blown out and I had to put a quart of oil in the truck every 70 miles.

I stayed away from synthetic for over 20 years, Now its the only thing I want for my truck that i plan to put 400,000 on the motor

I am keeping my RPM down and trying to keep from smokeing my tires.

[pjb45]

1995 Toyota 4 Runner with 240,000 miles.

Oil Changes-all places once before winter and once in late spring.

Timing Belt every 100,000 miles or so

I am bad about tune ups. I use Bosch plugs that last about 100,000 miles.

Change the air filter at least three times a year and clean in between.

At 230,000 changed out all the hoses--17 of them. Cost me a grand to do it.

Front end alignment ever couple of years when I replace the Michilens or take a big road trip.

The truck still gets 18 mpg in the city and if I keep it under 80 mph around 22 on the highway.

I would rather spend $1000 a year in maintenance that have a $400 a month car payment for 60 months.

I figure I will buy one more car that will last me until I die.

BTW: My 1983 VW GTI had 220,000+ before I traded it for the 4 Runner. A friend's Tourag has 240,000 miles.

[Jman]

Here's a link to a Mazda forum. Might be helpful? Worth a shot.

http://forum.mazda6club.com/153-technical-performance-model/

Jim

[Pro2AInPA]

So if I take my car to a mechanic next week, I should tell him to:

1. Check the suspension

2. Change the trans fluid

3. Check the plugs and wires

Anything else? I had 4 new tires and an alignment a few months ago. I installed a new battery a year ago.

Suspension, shocks, brakes, CV joints.

If you have NOT ever changed the tranny fluid, DON'T. If you have once or twice already, then yes. Add fluid if low to the tranny, power steering, radiator (temp check). Check the brake fluid, top off it okay, flush and fill if not.

Check Plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap.

I bought the car used with 40,000 miles on it. I do not know what was done to it before then.

[MarkCO]

I am keeping my RPM down and trying to keep from smokeing my tires.

You SHOULD alter your RPM every so often. If you "granny" an engine, say never above 2500 rpm, then the cylinder wear lip will form lower in the cylinder and then when you do happen to hit higher rpms, the compresion rings chip or fold over. At highway speed, flat low-load condition, at least once a month, you should run a mile or two at higher rpms. Say if you have a red-line of 5500 rpm, clock it at 4500 or so for a minute. The tolerance stack up goes in the other direction from when you are under load or low rpm and results in a slightly longer total length from the journal to the top of the piston. This is beneficial!

I just like to run pedal down and let her go through the gears once every few days!

Edited February 4, 2011 by MarkCO

[Pro2AInPA]

Thanks for all the tips so far guys. One other thing - I've noticed a pretty big decrease in my gas mileage. Any thoughts?

[MarkCO]

I bought the car used with 40,000 miles on it. I do not know what was done to it before then.

Check the fluid level (should be instructions on the tranny dipstick). If it smells burnt, stringy or had particles in it, replace for sure. You can do a flush, but that can create other problems. It is a manual or automatic tranny?

[MarkCO]

Thanks for all the tips so far guys. One other thing - I've noticed a pretty big decrease in my gas mileage. Any thoughts?

How much? Plugs and wires can cuase this. Low tire pressure is the most common culprit.

[TMC]

Thanks for all the tips so far guys. One other thing - I've noticed a pretty big decrease in my gas mileage. Any thoughts?

What is pretty big 5%, 10%, 25%?. A small decrease, about 5%, once in a while can be as simple as different gas pumps not filling the tank the same way. If it's 10% or more and came all at once and is consistent it can be plugs, clogged injectors, failing injectors, or major issues.

[Filishooter]

So if I take my car to a mechanic next week, I should tell him to:

If you are serious about maintaining your car, you should tell your mechanic to take a hike, buy a shop manual for your car and learn to do the preventative maintenance and repairs yourself. As a teen, I learned how to lower my car, swap out the engine, change the radiator, starter motor, etc. Parts don't last for ever. I learned how to do bodywork and how to paint a car as well. Learn about your car, how it feels the sounds it makes, if something doesn't feel right, fix it right away. If you don't know how, its a good time to start.

It helps to start with a good foundation like a Toyota or Honda. I had a 1986 CRX with 260k miles, and a 1990 Integra with over 200k miles before I sold them. They were both still running good. I have a RAV4 now and I plan on it lasting well over 300k.

[Pro2AInPA]

So if I take my car to a mechanic next week, I should tell him to:

If you are serious about maintaining your car, you should tell your mechanic to take a hike, buy a shop manual for your car and learn to do the preventative maintenance and repairs yourself. As a teen, I learned how to lower my car, swap out the engine, change the radiator, starter motor, etc. Parts don't last for ever. I learned how to do bodywork and how to paint a car as well. Learn about your car, how it feels the sounds it makes, if something doesn't feel right, fix it right away. If you don't know how, its a good time to start.

It helps to start with a good foundation like a Toyota or Honda. I had a 1986 CRX with 260k miles, and a 1990 Integra with over 200k miles before I sold them. They were both still running good. I have a RAV4 now and I plan on it lasting well over 300k.

This is not really an option for me.

1. I have next to no technical/mechanical talent.

2. In my line of work, I cannot risk injuring my hands, or hell, even getting calluses on my fingers.

[Flatland Shooter]

If you have not done and fluid/flush service of the radiator or transmission, best advice is to let it be becasue you are already WAY poast service intervals and have crud built up. New fluid has detergents that will free this crud up and then

I learned this one the hard way. Waited until I had 70K miles on the wife's Chrysler to flush the automatic transmission. About 750 miles later, transmission locked up. The mechanic then told me the same thing you are saying while showing me an one inch hole in the side of the transmission case. I don't know what part came through the hole, but it's PF was probably Major.

Bill

[Dave Gundry]

You do not have to baby a car for it to last forever - they do need to be used. Loading an engine at low rpm's is not only bad for efficiency (in most gas engines), but it can cause various issues with crankcase breather systems, variable valve timing actuators/solenoids, and WILL cause excessive carbon build up on the valves and in combustion chambers - run them within normal reason - don't be afraid to get on it. You could beat the snot out of most engines and they'll be healthier much longer than most of the DIY 'always maintained and babied' engines I've seen. USE THE BRAKES! Especially on Japanese cars - they have a habit of sticking caliper issues when used gently or parked for long periods of time. Just don't stop for more than a few seconds or park if they're really warm/hot.

Read your owners manual. Seems simple, but a large amount of folks neglect this step thinking they know enough or better. Read SPECIFICALLY about 'normal' vs. 'severe' driving conditions. The jist of it: 'normal' driving conditions, by most manufacturers standards, can only be achieved in a hermetically sealed, temperature and humidity controlled lab while the vehicle is run on a dyno to specific loads and parameters... Therefore, follow the 'severe' factory recommended maintenance schedule and change your oil every 3k with dino oil and 5k with synthetic. Doesn't matter what brand of filter or oil - they are all fine - just do it.

Find a mechanic that works specifically on imports or Mazdas that never says "we don't have _____ tool to do that". They will have better access to higher quality parts, and the knowledge of common issues and fixes (which can be done faster which saves you $), as well as TSB's and recall info. Bring the car to them for even the most minor issue and stick with them. Hopping around or going to quick lubes can (and usually does) cost more in the end. Sure, you'll pay more up front for basic services, but they will solve other problems long before you may even recognize them. Once you have built up enough trust with them (and vice-versa), let them fix what needs to be fixed, when it needs to be fixed. Give them the time to work on it. Unless it's a bulb out or very minor issue, leave the car with them for the day - you will get much better (and higher quality) service because they have the time to do their job properly.

There is not much that can happen with that car that would be a death sentence that isn't caused by neglect of maintenance/following the service schedule. The biggest weakness on most modern cars (especially Japanese) is RUST. Wash it regularly top & bottom, under hood and inside.

Hopefully that's not too preachy - I see a ton of issues every day that could have been prevented by folks following that advice. I am a former tech at an import only repair shop (now the manager).

Edited February 5, 2011 by Dave Gundry

[briansea2]

Or you could be like my Parents, buy a car new, change the oil 3 times during the 175000 you own it. Donate it and take the tax credit when you buy your next. Or use it as a trade in.

[EkuJustice]

I run nothing but Mobil 1 synthetic and a mobil 1 oil filter in my car. Go about 10K on the oil with this setup(less than its rated for). When the oil comes out, a new airfilter is also put on. I usually do the oil changer and filter for approximately 50 bucks. I ran regular oil for the first 3k then nothing but synthetic. I have one of the CVT transmissions which they actually say go quit a few miles before a flush as its a sealed unit. COolant changed at 50k(before it changes color). My tires are rotated about once a month(tire discounters knows me by first name). 2008 Nissan with roughly 145K on the odometer

[JD45]

How often would you change manual transmission dope in a 4x4 Tacoma? And both differentials? Mine has 165,000 on the original fluid. But I've never sunk it in the mud or crawled rocks.

My main question is when you change differential fluid, should I go synthetic? Does it have less of an odor than dino? When trucks get old you can always smell that stinking dope around the shifter boots.