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Glock Accuracy out of the box


amaziah

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I have a Glock 22 and it doesn't seem to have anywhere near the accuracy that my STI .45 has. Pie plate size groups are the norm at 25 yards from the Glock versus about one big ragged hole from the STI .45. What kind of accuracy are you guys getting from a stock Glock?

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I'm getting 2" groups at 25 yards. The gun is more accurate than I can make it. The more you shoot the G22, the better your groups will get. Good luck!

If that is not from a rest that is GREAT SHOOTING with any Glock.

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I'm getting 2" groups at 25 yards. The gun is more accurate than I can make it. The more you shoot the G22, the better your groups will get. Good luck!

If that is not from a rest that is GREAT SHOOTING with any Glock.

It is from a rest, my range bag.

Edited by sirveyr
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I've shot many 5-shot groups at 25yds with my G22 and G23 that were definitely under 2" off the bench (folded towel) using duty ammo (Win PDX1 180gr)....those are totally stock guns.

I first figured it out with my M&P, but it seems to translate to Glocks equally...they require a bit different technique than a 1911/2011 off the bench to get really good accuracy. For one, the trigger press isn't nearly as easy to shoot good groups with. Second, I've found that a seriously firm grip...like locking it in a vise, with your left hand, makes a big difference. I've shown this to fellow instructors at work, and they've all agreed that it does tighten the groups up. R,

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I have a Glock 22 and it doesn't seem to have anywhere near the accuracy that my STI .45 has. Pie plate size groups are the norm at 25 yards from the Glock versus about one big ragged hole from the STI .45. What kind of accuracy are you guys getting from a stock Glock?

That's because it costs Glock $15 to manufacture a gun and STI costs quite a bit more to manufacture. You get what you pay for accuracy wise with a gun.

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I've shot many 5-shot groups at 25yds with my G22 and G23 that were definitely under 2" off the bench (folded towel) using duty ammo (Win PDX1 180gr)....those are totally stock guns.

I first figured it out with my M&P, but it seems to translate to Glocks equally...they require a bit different technique than a 1911/2011 off the bench to get really good accuracy. For one, the trigger press isn't nearly as easy to shoot good groups with. Second, I've found that a seriously firm grip...like locking it in a vise, with your left hand, makes a big difference. I've shown this to fellow instructors at work, and they've all agreed that it does tighten the groups up. R,

I have found this to be true with my G17 G-man. Weak hand has to isolate the trigger finger. That and also finding that sweet spot on the trigger like you do a revo.

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Mechanically Glock will produce all the accuracy we'll ever need with a 4-5" pistol.

I know absolutely I sucked with my G35 in the accuracy department for a year. It was

not until I really studied the guns timing and my iffy technique that I began squaring things away.

Keep in mind that the OEM sights (not assuming you have them) are really quite terrible IMHO.

With some polishing and break in along with a set of target sights your "one ragged hole" will soon follow.

Let us know how thing progress.

Jim

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... I'm pretty sure its the trigger...its just such a long hard pull compared to the 1911 style I'm used to.

Not a critique, just pointing out that there is more to it than the variable of the trigger. The shooter has to adapt themselves to the system as well. (whatever that system may be...they are part of it)

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A gunsmith-fit glock barrel is supposed to fit tight against the locking block to increase lockup consistency. I notice however with even stock barrels that the slide stop spring is pushing up on the slide stop which then pushes the barrel up. If I push down on a stock barrel it gives for a mm or so but when I release the downward pressure the barrel springs up again into the same place as before. Is this slide stop spring pressure enough to ensure consistent lockup or does the barrel move enough after ignition to burn through that spring travel and introduce variability? Does the TR Graham extended slide stop work by ensuring that there’s always upward spring pressure on the barrel or does it just lessen the barrel travel during ignition?

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  • 5 weeks later...

A gunsmith-fit glock barrel is supposed to fit tight against the locking block to increase lockup consistency. I notice however with even stock barrels that the slide stop spring is pushing up on the slide stop which then pushes the barrel up. If I push down on a stock barrel it gives for a mm or so but when I release the downward pressure the barrel springs up again into the same place as before. Is this slide stop spring pressure enough to ensure consistent lockup or does the barrel move enough after ignition to burn through that spring travel and introduce variability? Does the TR Graham extended slide stop work by ensuring that there’s always upward spring pressure on the barrel or does it just lessen the barrel travel during ignition?

Ahh, the 'ol 1911 barrel test. It doesn't work on a Glock, unfortunately.

When I started looking for ways to enhance the accuracy of the Glock pistol back in 1992 I noted the following -

The Glock barrel makes contact in four areas :

1. The front of the slide where the barrel passes through.

2. The front of the ejection port where the barrel chamber locks.

3. The rear of the ejection port where the barrel hood contacts.

and last.....

4. the barrel lug where it contacts the slide lock.

Now, there is nothing simple that can be done to the first three areas on the list. They are all in the slide, and in a stock Glock the slide has very little to do with the accuracy of the pistol. Remember, this is not a 1911. The slide "floats" on four small rails, and is also guided by the both the recoil spring guide rod and the barrel. (Which is why I like metal guide rods - less flex.) There is generally a considerable amount of play between the frame and slide, regardless of how the barrel fits in the slide. The "root" which positions the whole barrel/slide assembly to the frame is the relationship of the barrel lug to the slide lock.

The slide lock determines the position of the barrel/slide assembly to the frame, and the position, depth and width of the barrel locking groove in the slide lock determines the lockup of the barrel.

Simply put, my MGSL works by consistantly locking the barrel in the same position relative to the frame from shot to shot.

TR Graham

The Glocksmith

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The stock slide lock on my G17 already provides enough force on the stock barrel’s bottom lug to take up all the vertical slop (can’t say about my other glocks, though). What I was wondering was if the slide stop spring force was enough to keep the barrel locked up tight during ignition or if the loads during ignition were enough to overcome it and create slop. I’m guessing your slide stop works by adding a preload to the slide stop spring so when the barrel’s locked up, there’s a higher upward force to counteract any downward force during recoil. It sounds like your slide stop minimizes the barrel movement but perhaps not eliminate it. In that case wouldn’t there still be benefit to fitting a gunsmith barrel to further reduce the amount a barrel can move in the slide?

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The stock slide lock on my G17 already provides enough force on the stock barrel’s bottom lug to take up all the vertical slop (can’t say about my other glocks, though). What I was wondering was if the slide stop spring force was enough to keep the barrel locked up tight during ignition or if the loads during ignition were enough to overcome it and create slop. I’m guessing your slide stop works by adding a preload to the slide stop spring so when the barrel’s locked up, there’s a higher upward force to counteract any downward force during recoil. It sounds like your slide stop minimizes the barrel movement but perhaps not eliminate it. In that case wouldn’t there still be benefit to fitting a gunsmith barrel to further reduce the amount a barrel can move in the slide?

Don't make this complicated - it is a simple system - and a linear one as well. The slide lock spring simply "props" the slide lock in its upward position. The tension between the engagement of the barrel locking groove on the slide lock to the barrel lug is provided by the forward pressure of the recoil spring. The loose tolerances of the barrel locking groove on the stock stamped slide lock allows barrel movement and a twisting effect due to the torque of the rifling during ignition. Quite often this can be seen as a distinct left (and sometimes vertical) wear pattern in the barrel locking groove in the stock slide lock.

There is no "preload to the slide lock spring" using my MGSL. However, you are exactly correct in your following statements. All my MGSL does is ensures that the barrel locks in battery in a consistent, repeatable manner. A tight toleranced, quality aftermarket barrel such as Bar-Sto, Jarvis or KKM properly fitted to the slide will increase accuracy, but it all still "roots" into one simple part - the slide lock.

TR Graham

The Glocksmith

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I have found that it depends on the gun. My G21s have always been more accurate than any 40 Glock I have ever owned. In fact, with the exception of a tack driving G27 I had for a while, none of the .40s were that impressive. That being said, I have not owned a .40 Glock for a few years now and that may have changed. I do know that the G21 is far more accurate than people give it credit for.

I was a state police firearms instructor for a while and one demo I used to do was to go to a rollover prone and put a magazine into the headbox of a B27 at 50 yards. Sadly,I am way too out of practice for that these days.

Ahh the days of free ammo....sniff sniff..

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  • 2 weeks later...

Any questions I had about accuracy limitations of a glock were put to rest today. I had the pleasure to shoot with several great shooters shooting stock glock 22s at a supported popper at increasing distances. We started at 25 yards and worked our way out. The winner of our little game eliminated the last of his competition when he hit the popper at approximately 115 yards. Several of the shooters made hits out to 50 and 75 yards. This was not SHOOT A BUNCH of rounds until you hit, but a you miss you are out kinda thing. I was extremely impressed with the effective range of the pistols and the shooters for that matter. I understand there are more accurate guns than glocks and mods that can improve their accuracy, but if I miss at the ranges we shoot at in USPSA it is me. No blaming the Tupperware. I certainly won't sweat 3/4 an inch of barrel length or sight radius in the future either.

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Calmwater I played that game when I went through my state's LE firearms instructor school. We ended up off of the range and in the parking lot! Our head instructor hit the plate from 125 yards. Stock Glock 17.

We have a 300 point bullseye stage as part of the entrance requirements to the school. A guy in my class shot it with his duty Glock 17 and scored a 291.

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None of my Glocks are as accurate as my Sig P-220 or my Springfield XD or even as accurate as my friends M&P. They shoot ok, but it seems to me like they just don't have the inherent accuracy that the others do. I can't help but think it has to do with the polygonal rifling.

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About the only thing wrong with glock barrels is the sloppy fit that is designed into the pistol. Once apon a time gunsmith fit barrels werent available for Glocks. tigging them up and remachining the fitment surfaces yeilded several guns that were absolutley amazing. I prefere not to do that any more because of the fumes of tenifer that result from the welding.

IMHO adding a diferent slide lock does little for me in the acuracy department.proper fitment with the lower lug fitted tightly to the "lockingblock" have yeilded the best groups . My best effort has yeilded 1" 50yard guns in the past. granted it takes match grade barrels that are true and specific bullets that match the bore diameters correctly. not to mention hours of reloading .Glocks can rival the acuracy of any other firarm out there.

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