Vlad Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 I had a bad loading day today. I wanted to load some 9mm and I had to change the primer slider to the small one, I didnt set the cup/post low enough and that trashed the primer tube nozzle. And there went primers all over the press and floor. Then while setting the cup position, I managed to break the decaping pin. Great job Lee, that collet which is supposed to give way didnt. So I replace the pin and then the real problem starts ... I kept on getting little jams as the priming bar would not return fully under the shell plate due to spent primers falling in front of it. I looked around and noticed that the little chute keeps on getting stuck open and allowing the spent primer to drop wherever. Most of the time the spent primer actually lands in the cup, but every now and then they get droped in bad spots causing unauthorized work stopages Any one else have this problem? is there a solution or at least a 12 step support group? Thanx Vlad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOtherErik Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Take that cotter pin that holds the chute together and throw it a way. I took a peice of large paper clip, fed it through the holes and bent the ends down. Works like a champ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 The old 550 that I have had a cotter pin as the chute hinge. The pin would wiggle around and eventually stick the chute open (or is it closed?) letting primers fall on the primer slide and into my sneakers. After a bunch of time dicking around with it I finally replaced it with a paper clip wire that is bent on each side of the chute 90 degrees to a length of about 1/4 inch. Works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 I bought an 89 cent box of small finishing nails at the hardware store. I've got hinge pins for life. That stupid cotter pin is the second thing Dillon's ever done that I don't like. What a hokey deal. Trash it now, lest you start thinking impure thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echo3mike Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 My solution was to squirt a little powdered graphite in between the chute halves. Seems to work O. K. , but my problem might not be your problem. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Larry Cazes Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Ditto what everyone else said.....Paperclip works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 the best solution I've personally found is to replace the cotter pin with a small safety pin. Open it, push the pointy end through all the holes, then snap it closed. This gives you a hardened steel axle for the flapper to pivot on. BTW, all Rl550s are shipped with two primer slides. The slide is not meant to repeatedly have the primer cup and punch removed and replaced. Just swap the slides. The correct height for the cup and punch in the primer slide is 1.215"-1.220", measuring from the underside of the primer slide to the top of the cup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2299 Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Like others in this thread I pulled out the cotter pin and replaced it with a paper clip. But dillon's idea of a safety pin sounds interesting. Gotta go find my wife's sewing kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Heiter Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 I've mentioned this before but in addition to the cotter pin swap, I also attached a small craft magnet (round disc about the size of a peppermint) to the back side of the moving portion of the chute. The added weight seems to help encourage the chute to flop open properly w/out getting in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted March 4, 2004 Author Share Posted March 4, 2004 BTW, all Rl550s are shipped with two primer slides. The slide is not meant to repeatedly have the primer cup and punch removed and replaced. Just swap the slides. The correct height for the cup and punch in the primer slide is 1.215"-1.220", measuring from the underside of the primer slide to the top of the cup. I'm sorry, I wasnt clear. I was not changing the cups, I was changing the whole slider, but it was the first time I was using that slider and it need it to be adjusted. I will try to replace the pin and hope that fixes it. Thank you all. Vlad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vluc Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 ooh...i like that little magnet idea. Also replaced my pin...first with a paper clip, then a safety pin.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 the best solution I've personally found is to replace the cotter pin with a small safety pin. I've seen this lots of times, finally got around to doing this yesterday. few hundred rounds, it ran 100%.. I don't know why I never tried it before. Note: The open/close side goes away from the primers.. it'll save you a minute... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajarrel Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 There is a spare keeper pin for your primer tubes that comes with the loaders spare parts. It can be used for a hinge pin as well and is usually handy when the cotter pin gives out. I replaced my cotter pin several thousand rounds ago with the keeper pin and have had no problems. Just another option. dj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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