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XL 650 9mm brass getting stuck on powder flaring funnel


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This problem has been getting worse over time, On the down stroke of the handle I was getting resistance, it felt like metal hitting against metal. I thought it was in the primer disk and the spring not advancing the primer wheel. It is the flaring funnel getting stuck on the brass case. I did have a small flare of about .020 over the size of the case as the instruction book says to set it. It was sticking to the funnel now that the funnel is polished smooth it does not stick....

Problem solved...... I needed to polish the stainless funnel more than I did. With a 4 X loupe I could see the grooves that were cut into the steel. The Cape Cod polishing clothes worked great I just needed more elbow grease to clean it up..

You can buy the polishing cloths on EBay, just sear Cape Cod and you will see the polishing cloths. They work great for any hard steel I usually use them on 316 S.S. watches to get sctratches out to maske them like new with a high gloss shine.

Edited by xinnix
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I'm not trying to be funny, but I thought that was normal. Mine sticks on my funnel on my 550. I just learned to power through it. There have been threads on this topic before if you can find them.

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Try using the 1050 funnel. (yes, it'll fit the 550 and 650)

No more stickage.

I figure Dillon makes them the way they do is because the 650 and 550 don't have an expander like the 1050 does on station #3. It would also be cheaper for them to make one (like the 1050) and ship them with all of their units. On rifle dies the expander is built into the deprime punch but not on pistol dies.

expander.jpg

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Does Dillon have a fix for this. I see I am not the only person with this problem. It should not be this way and Dillon should have a fix with their no BS warranty. Has any one heard what the fix is besides you having to buy the 1050 flaring tool.

Thanks

Edited by xinnix
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Is that the picture of the 1050 flaring tool? Does Dillon give you one for free if it works? What is the difference between the 550 650 and 1050 flaring tool and why does the 1050 work. Is it shaped different or is it a harder metal? I am going to be home tomorrow, I will call Dillon and see what they say to do??? The loader works OK but there are some quirks that make it a PITA sometimes. I have not used another loader than the XL650 so I have nothing to compare it to.

They do send out parts fast if there is a problem with thir warranty. That is one good thing.

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On the RL1050/Super 1050 series, the case neck expansion is done by the swage backup die. Thus we can use a tapered conical powder activator to operate the powder measure and only flare the case mouth at the powder drop. On all of our other reloading machines, the funnel both expands the case neck as well as flaring the case mouth, in one step. New brass and brass that has been overzealously cleaned so it is shiny on the inside will tend to stick to the funnel. The cases lack the desirable carbon coating on the inside that acts as a lubricant to the funnel, much like dry graphite does. When loading new brass, wipe off the expander portion of the funnel using steel wool or a green scotchbrite pad every 25-35 cases, to prevent the buildup of brass on this surface of the funnel. After the cases have been fired a couple of times this should go away. We advise tumbling brass only 1 1/2 - 2 hours at the most.

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After the cases have been fired a couple of times this should go away. We advise tumbling brass only 1 1/2 - 2 hours at the most.

As much as I like Dillon equipment I have to say I agree that there should be a solution to this problem. Blaming it on polished brass.......:rolleyes:

My brass sticks and it is not new by any stretch of the imagination. I do get it very clean but there is still residue inside the case.

But like I said, I thought it was supposed to be sticky as mine has always done it. You get used to it.:cheers:

Edited by Sarge
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I had this problem with new brass. The sticking stopped after the third reloading. Just started on another batch of new brass but I tried a tip from a poster on this forum. I polished the new brass for 30 minutes with my usual additive NuFinish car wax in the media. Seems to be brass dust inside the new cases that happens during the manufacturing of the new brass. Problem solved. During the first go round I chucked the expander up in my lathe and polished the bejeezus out of it. Prior to this I could see vertical brass streaks on the expander die. No problems now.

Would be nice if Dillon thought of every possible problem that might crop up but...

Pat

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got a call from Brian and he said Dillon said not to clean the brass to long as you will clean the carbon off the inside of the case. He said to make sure you are using a additive lubricant to your corn cob or walnut shells and to use One Shot lube on the cases even though you are using a carbide resizing die that does not need it. I did all of the above and the problem went away. Brian sent me a new feed tube flaring funnel that is all nice and shiny.

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I got a call from Brian and he said Dillon said not to clean the brass to long as you will clean the carbon off the inside of the case. He said to make sure you are using a additive lubricant to your corn cob or walnut shells and to use One Shot lube on the cases even though you are using a carbide resizing die that does not need it. I did all of the above and the problem went away. Brian sent me a new feed tube flaring funnel that is all nice and shiny.

Thanks.

I only tumbled brass for just long enough for it to be completely clean on the outside. In brand new media, that only takes about 20 - 30 minutes. For loading brand new brass, a little extra spritzing of case lube, either Dillon's or One Shot, will help keep the brass from sticking.

be

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  • 1 month later...

On the RL1050/Super 1050 series, the case neck expansion is done by the swage backup die. Thus we can use a tapered conical powder activator to operate the powder measure and only flare the case mouth at the powder drop. On all of our other reloading machines, the funnel both expands the case neck as well as flaring the case mouth, in one step. New brass and brass that has been overzealously cleaned so it is shiny on the inside will tend to stick to the funnel. The cases lack the desirable carbon coating on the inside that acts as a lubricant to the funnel, much like dry graphite does. When loading new brass, wipe off the expander portion of the funnel using steel wool or a green scotchbrite pad every 25-35 cases, to prevent the buildup of brass on this surface of the funnel. After the cases have been fired a couple of times this should go away. We advise tumbling brass only 1 1/2 - 2 hours at the most.

Why? Isn't it the job of the sizing die to set the neck diameter for proper neck tension to retain the bullet at the selected seating depth? I hear this all the time on other forums, how this is a designed flaw with dillon equipment. That doing so makes a loaded round more suseptable to bullet setback.

Disclaimer; I just would like to know why it is like this. I love my Dillon equipment :bow:

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  • 4 years later...

The problem I had was the lowest part of the funnel was .352 and the die was sizing to .374. With some case thickness the inside diameter was smaller than the funnel so it would be a snug fit. I dremeled the funnel just on the part before it starts flaring then polished it. Now it doesn't stick at all.... Like ever. It's like a whole new machine. I was like Sarge and accepted it as the norm. But not anymore. It's awesome!

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I was like Sarge and accepted it as the norm. But not anymore. It's awesome!

Yeah, that's a pretty old post. I fixed the problem long ago by working the funnel down and polishing. I have since added the MBF and the funnel sticking is not nearly as bad.
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