Reloading Non-brass

[SynnerG]

All I know is that I'm not supposed to reload non-brass rounds. Can anyone just shoot me a quick explanation why, that'd just make things clear. The only other materials I can think of in use is Nickle and Steel... maybe a hard aluminum too? Either way, when I shoot any nickle rounds (usually found in premium store bought defense rounds) it's best just to leave the metal in the dirt? I do remember buying some reloads from a big time reload distributor that were nickle rounds, so maybe they have a different process or something? Thanks!

[Sarge]

I thought those are just nickel plated brass? Either way nickel is harder to work correct?

S&B makes some stuff called range safe ammo or something like that. It is steel that is just colored the same color as brass. You will know when one of these makes it to the press. It is tougher to work than brass. Before I caught on I did reload and shoot a few of them. I don't mess with S&B anymore because of that. And the tight primer pockets.

[dagger10k]

I would stay away from steel and aluminum. Nothing wrong with reloading nickel-plated brass though. I've reloaded lots of it with no problems. Just check it for splits and other damage the same way you'd check any brass.

[Corey]

the non-brass cases are a little harder on your reloading dies. I stay away from them for 2 reasons:

1: dont want to bother with "inferior"(i use that term very loosely based on what ive heard about it)

2: All of my live rounds are brass, while my dummy/dryfire rounds are nickle. Helps me keep things even more seperated and safe

Edited September 7, 2010 by Corey

[Middle Man]

I've seen a few guys reloading aluminum cases. They wear out faster, primer pockets loosen and case mouths split.

[GrumpyOne]

Nothing wrong with reloading nickle plated brass, it will just wear out sooner, as it is harder. I've heard that some have reloaded the steel and aluminum stuff, but I wouldn't recommend it. Steel will wear out your dies and it doesn't expand and contract like brass. Aluminum, even hard aluminum, will expand too much and you may have a case blow out.

[David Sinko]

I have reloaded Boxer primed S&B and Wolf steel .223 cases. I reloaded some numerous times and never had any problems. Generally speaking steel does not have to be trimmed after the first firing and the primer pockets need not be reamed, and this saves a lot of time. I make sure the once fired stuff is not rusty and then use it at lost brass matches. Maybe they should be called lost steel matches?

Reloading Boxer primed aluminum cases is a bit more iffy and should be done only in an emergency, which is not a USPSA match.

Dave Sinko

[njl]

All the Blazer aluminum I've seen is berdan primed, so I don't know how you'd reload it if you wanted to.

[calishootr]

nickle is reloadable, some actually prefer it for long term storage as it doesnt 'tarnish' like ordinary brass might??? like was said, nickle will over a period of reloads become work hardened and more than likely split, when pickin up the brass and you hear an unusual 'clink' in your hand, its a split case...as for blazer aluminum??? leave it lay, its berdan primed...steel?? no way, not in my dies...1 scratch and its a ruined die...i'll pass on steel

[raz-0]

I've actually got an older book on reloading that covers the bad old days, and how to reload steel cases, berdan primed cases, and alloys for hard cast lead that won't screw up a gas operated semi-auto rifle too quickly. 

[driver8M3]

as for blazer aluminum??? leave it lay, its berdan primed...

it used to be, but it's not anymore. i've reloaded a few blazer aluminum cases just for testing. works fine, though i'm not sure how long they'd last compared to brass (and blazer specifically recommends against using the aluminum cases for reloading...at least they did a few years ago when i asked them).

[Boats]

Drawn Brass expands on igniton grabs the side of the chamber then springs back when presures go back down. It does need to be re-sized but not a lot. Turned brass cases used in obscure single shots have less spring and work different, need more sizing when re-loaded. They are a real pain to work with but sometimes the only option to get a old single shot or double rifle shooting.

Steel or Alumimum don't have the spring, At best they are cheap one time use subsitutes for the far more common drawn brass case. The effort to re-load them is not worth it when regular drawn brass cases are avalable at low cost.

Boats

[njl]

Another issue with aluminum is aluminum oxide is a serious abrasive. I wouldn't want to put aluminum cases (which might have an oxide coating) through my resizing die.

[EEH]

I load all my revolver rounds in nickle,that way I don't have to worry if they have federal primers or not--not any problem's with them,

[SynnerG]

Ahh thanks guys. I'll skip the steel and aluminum for sure. I only have a couple nickle plated ones from a bag of reloaded stuff. I might give those a couple goes but will keep an eye for cracks/splits to be sure.

[GrumpyOne]

Another issue with aluminum is aluminum oxide is a serious abrasive. I wouldn't want to put aluminum cases (which might have an oxide coating) through my resizing die.

If that were the case, we'd have a bunch more wore out guns than what we do. The chambers would wear out quickly, the breachface, the feed lips on the mags, the ramp, etc. I don't think they would have an aluminum oxide coating, and if they did, the manufacturer would more than likely have to put a disclaimer on the boxes saying that use may damage the pistol. Otherwise, if someone could prove that they did indeed harm their pistol, then that would open up a lawsuit to replace all pistols in which the aluminum case ammo was used.

[njl]

I wonder if they do something to it, or if because it's an aluminum alloy, the oxidation isn't an issue? Aluminum left on its own in air forms a thin layer of aluminum oxide that then protects the aluminum from further oxidation. Chambering a round isn't nearly as tight a fit as resizing, so I don't know that it would really wear on the guns if the oxide was there.

[GrumpyOne]

I wonder if they do something to it, or if because it's an aluminum alloy, the oxidation isn't an issue? Aluminum left on its own in air forms a thin layer of aluminum oxide that then protects the aluminum from further oxidation. Chambering a round isn't nearly as tight a fit as resizing, so I don't know that it would really wear on the guns if the oxide was there.

I believe that they coat them with some sort of laquer, much like Wolf ammo. I'm gonna look that up though.

Edit to add:

Blazer uses a non reloadable case made from high strength, aircraft gauge aluminum alloy. Clean burning propellants deliver optimum velocity while ensuring consistent chamber pressures. Cases are coated for smooth functioning and corrosion resistance. Non corrosive primers for highly sensitive and reliable performance. Blazer delivers all the performance of high priced ammunition for a fraction of the cost.

From Blazers MSDS sheets, I find this absolutely hilarious!

SKIN CONTACT: After ammunition has been fired, dust, vapors, and/or fumes may cause irritation. * Projectiles from fired ammunition can cause puncture wounds.

Edited September 12, 2010 by GrumpyOne

[SynnerG]

This leads me to wonder why anyone offers anything but brass rounds if that metal seems to be the best for shooting. Why deal with plating or using possibly corrosive or damaging metals that need extra coatings or warnings to not reuse them? The only "benefit" I've seen marketed for another non-brass was the nickle plated defense rounds as having more reliable feeding into the mag and into the chamber, but that's it.

[njl]

Well...nickel because it doesn't tarnish...I was just at the range with a friend who brought some old (probably around 10yr) store bought factory .45acp ammo...and it was pretty tarnished...looked worse than my reloads.

The steel and aluminum cases must be cheaper to produce, or there'd be no point.

[raz-0]

Aluminum's highest price in the last 12 months: $1.10 a pound.

Copper's highest price in the last 12 months: $3.60 a pound.

Zinc's highest price in the last 12 months: ~$1.22 a pound. 

Brass is made from copper and zinc. Copper and zinc are both much denser than aluminum, so per pound, you get less product from them.  Steel is cheaper than any of the above. 

[SynnerG]

Ah, well the cheap steel explains why the russians love it, haha. ;-)