How can I improve my M&P Pro trigger?

[Philo_Beddoe]

I broke down and bought a Pro 9mm off gunbroker. Everything is good, except the trigger leaves alot to be desired. Specifically the take-up is real gritty and the reset is real vague, I can't hear or feel when it resets unlike my CZ. I would like to get the grit out of the take up, which is probably the firing pin safety in my guess. I would also like to make the reset more "postive". I am not overly concerned with reducing the pull weight just getting rid of the grittyness and the vague reset.

I have heard of Dan Burwell, the apex parts, and accurate iron.

I am not that mechanically inclined, I can do simple stuff, like replace a trigger return spring, but nothing to involved. So if the apex parts require alot of tools or know how, I am not interested.

Which would you suggest?

Thanks

[Merlin Orr]

I would suggest you start out with a search and then ask the same questions if you still have any....

Edited May 31, 2010 by Merlin Orr

[NickO]

I plan on doing the Apex DCAEK on my MP45.. i've been pretty happy with the trigger on my pro.

Apex posts lots of how to vids so you can see what is involved.

[Merlin Orr]

OK... I tried to post the results of my search using M&P trigger job..but no joy.

Try the advanced search feature ( located next to the tan regular Search button) and select the M&P forum category to do the search in. Brings up some threads that may not be specific to your question but also a lot of direct comments to the trigger job issue.

[bunsen27]

Here is the link to Apex Tacticals YouTube channel which has installation videos for the hard sear and USB.

http://www.youtube.com/user/apextactical#p/a/u/0/ruCW-yACkzI

After watching those you can decide for yourself if it is within your capabilities to install the parts.

The hard sear/USB combo should eliminate much of the grittiness. As far as a more positive or tactile reset like a Glock or CZ you won't get that with the Apex parts. What you will get is a smooth take up that breaks cleanly at 3-4 lbs with a very short reset. As short as the reset is I personally don't think you need a strong positive reset feeling, YMMV. Dan Burwell has an outstanding reputation for M&P trigger jobs, I don't know what his present schedule or turn around time is. I believe Dan can also do a few more tricks with overtravel, ect. I have no knowledge of Accurate Iron. Hope that helps.

[Paul Burtchell]

I would suggest sending your pistol to Dan Burwell. You will not regret the investment.

Edited May 31, 2010 by Paul Burtchell

[bradthegunmaniac]

Dan Burwell.

[almostold]

If you can live without it for a couple-three weeks send it to Dan otherwise order Apex now and send to Dan this fall/winter - you will be glad you did.

[twodownzero]

I'd say clean the lower thoroughly. My Pro's trigger had something caught in it when I got it, and once I cleaned that out, it got much better.

[Jay870]

I'm all thumbs with no patience and no finesse and I installed the Apex sear and safety plunger with no problems. I installed the sear first which removed a lot of the stacking, made for a crisper break, and a shorter reset. A few weeks later I installed the plunger which helped a lot with the "grit" in the pull and gave it a more positive reset. So, for $50 in parts and 30 minutes of time you can improve the pull considerably.

That being said, my friends Pro was done by Burwell, and is the nicest trigger I've ever felt in a polymer gun. Drastically reduced pre-travel, light, crisp and snappier reset.

[Fishin6061]

When doing a trigger job, do smiths like Dan and Mike prefer the stock parts or apex?

[Del]

+1 for Dan Burwell

[bunsen27]

When doing a trigger job, do smiths like Dan and Mike prefer the stock parts or apex?

Here is a thread about M&P trigger service that Dan posted in. If I recall correctly he stated that he preferes to start with factory parts.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=102307&st=25&p=1173098entry1173098

[Fishin6061]

Thanks bunsen27.

[diehli]

Better than stock is the SSS sear.

http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/catalog/search.php?submit=submit&categories=Smith+%26+Wesson+M%26P+9L%2FPro&subcategories=Performance+Accessories

[G-ManBart]

The Apex parts are easy to install with one minor exception...the firing pin block since you have to remove the rear sight to get at it. On many guns the gritty takeup is mostly that FPB and spring. R,

[gng4life]

Philo_, removing that rear sight is a beast. Since you say you are not really heavy into the mechanical side, I would not go with the FPB. That should be the source of the grit like G-man said. The other Apex parts are pretty easy and you should be able to do those.

Nothing against Dan but I tried to get my 9P to him three times and he is just too busy. I'm doing it myself now.

[millisec]

Little tip on the rear sight... In the Apex video he uses an aluminum drift punch. I didn't have anything that was right for the job and couldn't find one locally. I had hoped to get a section of square aluminum bar/key stock at HD or Lowes but no cigar. I did end up buying a 1/2" x 3/16" x 3' piece of flat aluminum stock for about $3 at HD. I hacksawed off a 4.5" piece. 1/2" is too wide so I used a file to cut down a 5/8" long section x 3/8" wide. Smooth off any rough edges on the tip and wrap it with masking tape like they do in the apex video. 2-3 good whacks with a heavy hammer (even a typical claw hammer) and the site will move enough to use the Apex site tool. Going back on you can do the same to tap it in and a couple taps to adjust it. I used a plastic hammer to tap it in and then the homemade drift to finish it and adjust it. I was real close the first time but I made a couple small adjustments with a bore sighter laser. I have a Laserlyte I bought a while back for about $20 at Walmart. Works good and works on pretty much any pistol or rifle. Not including a pause for cleaning the whole USB install took less than 5 minutes. The sear took about the same.

You don't need to run out and buy a whole toolset and vise if you don't have them. I did everything on a laminate workbench with a towel and plastic block. You can buy a set of Craftsman roll pin punches for about $18 or just the 1/8 for about $4 in store. You can also get a Craftsman 38298 combination small rubber and hard plastic hammer for $10 (it was $8 on sale). If you make or buy an aluminum or brass square drift, get the roll pin punch and hammer and have a few basic tools like an allen wrench for the rear sight set screw, steel hammer and a screwdriver thats all you need for the sear and the striker block. To make the drift all you need is the aluminum, a hacksaw, file and piece of masking tape.

[Flork]

Millisec,

That's some good advise. Good lookin out for your fellow M&P owners.

Scott

[Bongo Boy]

And before you buy anything to move the rear sight, at least pull the set screw and see if you can move it by hand. Odds are against it, but on my MP45 there is literally nothing holding the rear sight in but the set screw...loosen it, and the sight slides right out no tools needed. It's at least worth the 30 second test, as unlikely at it is you'll have a rear sight that falls out on its own like mine.

[tt350z]

My Pro's sight came out pretty easily. I used a delrin rod with the slide on a carpeted floor and it only took a few taps with a hammer to come out. I could get it over 3/4 of the way in with my fingers alone. My firing block roll pin was much much harder to drift out than the sight.

[cyclone336]

Another thing I did that was very minor was to detach the trigger bar from the plastic trigger shoe by punching the upper pin on the trigger. When I did that, I found that the front of trigger bar had a course edge from stamping and it dragged along the inside of the shoe. I sanded and polished it and that improved the grittiness slightly. It didn't help a ton, but it only took two minutes to do.

[Bass Ackwardz]

I have a pro as well, and after about 2000 rounds through it, it smoothed up and still breaks clean. I might want a trigger job done on it in the future, but I always shoot my guns for a couple thousand rounds first.

Bass

[tt350z]

I did my own trigger job at home, before I found the link to Dan Burwell's step by step instruction. Turns out everything I had polished and reshaped was exactly what he does. Only thing I didn't do was recut the over travel and cut the sear for reduced weight as mine feels fine for me out of the box.

http://www.burwellgunsmithing.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

Edited July 1, 2010 by tt350z