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Resizing 40 glocked brass


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What is the best way to go for resizing .40 glocked brass bulge in the LNL AP. I have been reading about putting the EGW U die in station #2. Been searching, but haven't found the answer that I need.

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Each piece of .40 brass I shoot is inspected then run through a Lee Bulge Buster mounted on a single stage. Then they get dumped into the casefeeder. I load only 150-200 at a time so this process works well for me.

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I don't have a single stage

Use a standard sizer/decapper in station one and a Lee Factory Crimp in the last station. Many are having very good results with this set up.

I do recommend a sizer made for progressive presses. The Dillon has worked out well for me. The bottom inside edge is beveled making for smooth

operation.

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If you are a serious shooter headed to GM you need serious equipment CasePro 100. I'm a fun shoot guy but I have one do 9 mm and 38S in it. Now that aside the Redding Grx on a cheap $21.00 Lee Single stage puts and end to your 40 problems. A u-die will help some but its a bandaide approach the Redding GRX or a CasePro is the cure.

I tried the U-die with 40 and even gound the end down a bit but still had too many rejects. That is in a LNL or an XL650.

The other way to avoid issues is to deprime and size the cases then drop check them, it they pass into the hoppper else into the recycle bin. It will cost you some time but you won't be wasting primers and time taking the bullets out.

I use the GRX for 40 just because I don't want to take the time to change the Die in the CasePro.

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+1 on the Lee Bulge Buster. I've got just about $50.00 tied up including the cost of the used Lee single stage. I have always run a U-die in my Dillon 550 and now it really is not needed. If your only running a few hundred rounds in a session the Lee set up is pretty economical

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So finding a single stage and the using the Redding grx is what I should do then? What is the difference between the redding die and the Lee buldge buster. (other than they are from different companies)

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So finding a single stage and the using the Redding grx is what I should do then? What is the difference between the redding die and the Lee buldge buster. (other than they are from different companies)

Flip of the coin. Both work as advertised.

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+1 for the Redding GRX and a Lee single stage. I give the cases a light shot of Hornady spray lube and in they go. Works great.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________-

Ah that I were young enough to have focus now that I see the use of it. - Me

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Something like $700 with one set of dies roughly.

Holy $h!? I was thinking a couple hundred. Guess I was way off.

For 1/3 if that I could just buy non glock brass and not worry about it.

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They're steep no matter how you slice 'em. Now, if you have a place to mount one at your club/range and can get 3-4 people to buy

in...just spit ballin' here. :rolleyes:

Edited by Jman
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Should with solid mounting and a little Hornady One-Shot on the brass. This might be a bit heftier.

RCBS Partner Press about $67 from MidwayUSA with the mail-in rebate.

post-1015-127344122914_thumb.jpg

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What is the best way to go for resizing .40 glocked brass bulge in the LNL AP. I have been reading about putting the EGW U die in station #2. Been searching, but haven't found the answer that I need.

I run a Dillon 650 but the machine is not the question. For a long time, I had the "bulge" in my 40 and 9mm brass from my Glocks. My buddy recommended the EGW undersizing dies to eliminate this issue, but I ignored him and just adjusted my resizing die/crimp. Although it was better, I would occasionally get a round that would not chamber.

One day, an add was placed in the online community for a ERW 40S&W die and it was really inexpensive and the guy shipped for free. I thought, why the heck not...

In the end, I was a moron for not listening to my buddy and the ERW U 40S&W fixed all my issues with the "bulge". Had I done this much earlier, I would have eliminated the issues long ago.

Now my crimp is not nearly as hard and I never have to SAMMI case gauge my rounds. All I do is make sure there are no flipped primers.

BTW, my ERW U is in station 1. I have destroyed a few brass, but they were so badly crushed to begin with I should have culled them out before loading.

Edited by SoCalGlocker
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I use the EGW U-die in station #1 of my 650 with no problems at all. I then have a Lee FCD die in the last station, and never case gauge my ammo for local matches. Only time I case gauge (or more accurately, I drop-check in my guns chamber) ammo is for a MAJOR MATCH, such as a State, Sectional, Area, or Nationals.

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Wow. You really can set your watch by the regularity of new Glocked Brass threads. ;)

Just kidding. The EGW u-die works great. I also have the Redding G-Rx. It works as well, but is a separate processing step best accomplished on a single-stage press.

I case gauge every round. I have found that the Dillon case gauge is tighter than the chambers of my Glock 22 & 24.

Regards,

Jack

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I've been using the EGW U die since day 1 with my LnL AP for .40, and my reject rates are very low. I case gauged 200 rounds tonite and had no fails; I use whatever brass I can pick up.

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So will this single stage work for the Redding GRX?

I wouldn't reccomend it. I just busted the handle off of my second one yesterday resizing lead boolits that are .001" too large. Full resizing wouldn't be quite as much force, but the cast zinc handle just isn't up to serious use.

Look at an O frame press with a steel handle. Lee, Lyman, RCBS, Redding, and Hornady all make some nice units for about $100-$130.

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