SoCalGlocker

Anyone else looking to purchase the new M2?

As others mentioned, if this was a gen2 pmag and you over inserted, that’s the issue. use gen3 pmags and your issue is solved.

Count the number of targets (paper or otherwise), par time by count of targets. That's the maximum amount of time you can spend on each target, not including movement. OR, count arrays and the amount of time you need to get to the next array. Subtract dwell time (time to next target array) from par time, then divide by array count. This is the maximum amount of time you can spend at each array. Now decide which array or which receives more attention if you can't run the the COF in par time.

In the case where you have an ambi-mag release, and you can reach said release with your thumb, that's your best option. However, lefties are not always afforded an ambi release on every firearm. Have you tried using your middle finger to activate the mag release? I had to change my method due to a thumb injury and this works great for me.

I want to know how you got a M2speed! As far as I understand it, these are unobtainable in the States.

So my rounds can go as slow as 544fps?

I've always been of the mind to practice what you shoot and shoot what you practice. Meaning, I don't shoot powder puff bunny fart loads in practice and full power loads in reality. With that said my chrono'd reloads calculated out to a power factor of 207,000. SSP is 165,000 min. Is this too hot? 230g 45acp

I'm ok with the new rules of 1 sec penalty for each point down, but to say that's it's because of math is an insult. Everyone knows practiscore and uberscoremaster are very capable of doing math without errors. To expand on the rules, any hit to the 0 or 1 zone on a non-threat should result in a match DQ.

So what happens when you cannot physically fit a fully loaded 10 round mag in the gun with 1 in the pipe? In CA, many loaded factory 10 round glock mags will not seat in the magwell. So should these competitors be charged with a PE for following state laws?

Care to share?

You mean the end over end spinner? You could make one really fast.

Add a case feeder and a bullet feeder and you'll knock out 1000/hr+

Correct. Separate steps.

Any benefit to trim on the 650?

Any reason I could not mount the trimmer to my 1050?

Deeogee How about a pic of said puppy?

Good lord I'm sure this question has been beat to death, or... maybe not. I now am the proud owner of 3 of the finest shotguns in the world and I "need" to make a decision on which one to offload. So, here's where I ask my forum buddies and ladies to voice their opinion on which one to offload. 1 - SLP MK1 factory new. 2 - M1S90 tactical w/pistol grip & 2 shot extension, chokes and paperwork. 3 - M1S90 rifle sight w/PG and factory rifle stock, 2 shot extension, all chokes, paperwork, factory box and gray carry case. #3 was my first autoloader and the mossberg 590 is staying as the HD shotgun. #2 & #1 were purchased within 1 week of each other and I have to say I like BOTH. The FN is just stupid accurate, much easier to load and has a great sighting system. The M1 is extremely light and agile, the included ghost ring sights are nice for slugging it out. So am I making the right choice by keeping #1 and 2 and selling #3? What say you...

I run a Dillon 650 but the machine is not the question. For a long time, I had the "bulge" in my 40 and 9mm brass from my Glocks. My buddy recommended the EGW undersizing dies to eliminate this issue, but I ignored him and just adjusted my resizing die/crimp. Although it was better, I would occasionally get a round that would not chamber. One day, an add was placed in the online community for a ERW 40S&W die and it was really inexpensive and the guy shipped for free. I thought, why the heck not... In the end, I was a moron for not listening to my buddy and the ERW U 40S&W fixed all my issues with the "bulge". Had I done this much earlier, I would have eliminated the issues long ago. Now my crimp is not nearly as hard and I never have to SAMMI case gauge my rounds. All I do is make sure there are no flipped primers. BTW, my ERW U is in station 1. I have destroyed a few brass, but they were so badly crushed to begin with I should have culled them out before loading.

I shoot an all stock G23 and reguarly beat members with G34's and G35's. It's all about what you get out if IDPA, not what kind of gun you put in it.

I used my M40A1 in IDPA comp recently and loved the performance. The barrel actually sits lower in the hand than a glock. Pro - Inexpensive, shoots very well, low barrel axis Con - Trigger reset, no aftermarket support. Extractor problem can be fixed, trigger reset as well.

Agreed. I'm still trying not to "milk" the grip, but I can tell when I've done it as the round ends up low/left. I've tried relaxing my strong hand, gripping harder with my weak hand, but honestly that doesn't work for me. I finally got to a 80% grip on both hands and that works great for me. I was told to think of it as a "FIRM" handshake.

Add another +1 for the Peltor Tac6 behind the head. Great for those times you need to wear a hat.

There is a new auction site for reloading specifically http://www.reloadersauction.com/index.php I've bookmarked it myself.

I use one as well. 5 minutes each hand every other day did wonders for my grip. I noticed a huge improvement when doing strong/weak hand strings.

Just got off the phone with Dillon. They are sending a replacement small primer pin and wheel. Thank you Dillon!