617s should come with warning label

[danogriggs]

I agree. I bought a 4" 617 about a week ago and would prefer to shoot it over just about anything else I own.

I have noticed that after I shoot a few hundred rounds there is a large amount (about .010" thick)of lead splashed onto the the top strap area just above the forcing cone "muzzle". I have also noticed that the opening into the forcing cone is jagged and some metal actually overhangs the forcing cone opening.

This so far has had no affect on accuracy or function that I have noticed. It just makes a mess.

Is this normal for any revolver, or should I consider sending back to S&W?

DG

[Team Amish 1]

I agree. I bought a 4" 617 about a week ago and would prefer to shoot it over just about anything else I own.

I have noticed that after I shoot a few hundred rounds there is a large amount (about .010" thick)of lead splashed onto the the top strap area just above the forcing cone "muzzle". I have also noticed that the opening into the forcing cone is jagged and some metal actually overhangs the forcing cone opening.

This so far has had no affect on accuracy or function that I have noticed. It just makes a mess.

Is this normal for any revolver, or should I consider sending back to S&W?

DG

Yep, good point. The lead build up sucks. Also, that thing seems to need adjusting after a while. One shooting buddy hates my 617 because of the lead splatter. Little bullet shaving action going on...

[Northern Xtreme]

Mine is second hand, perhaps the gent that sold it to me can chime in, but it is pre-lock, the cartridges fall in and out very smoothly, and it didn't bind after 500 rounds with no cleaning in a single session, so it looks like you have to account for the usual manufacturing variance. I had the pleasure of showing it to my father today, and while his eyes are too far gone to use iron sights, I think he enjoyed seeing me hit a 8 oz plastic Coke bottle at 50 yards over and over, about 2 hits to every 1 miss. If I can figure out how to cock it quickly I'll definitely start shooting some bullseye with it.

H.

I am very happy that you like the 617. I am sure I will regret selling it. It has the aluminum cylinder, I dont know if thats the difference from the sticky chambers or not.

[snertley]

Bubber-

I have seen several that had the forcing cone and/or the muzzle crown off center. It is a simple hand tool operation to fix those. Usually that will fix most accuracy problems not related to lead buildup in the barrel.

I think the better way for me is to put the sights on BEFORE I yank the trigger. When I do that it hits about right No lie me and my brother were shooting bugs off a piece of paper at 7 yard just for fun.

Bubber, are bugs considered big game where your from? It might be cheaper to use bug spray.

[Bubber]

Bubber-

I have seen several that had the forcing cone and/or the muzzle crown off center. It is a simple hand tool operation to fix those. Usually that will fix most accuracy problems not related to lead buildup in the barrel.

I think the better way for me is to put the sights on BEFORE I yank the trigger. When I do that it hits about right No lie me and my brother were shooting bugs off a piece of paper at 7 yard just for fun.

Bubber, are bugs considered big game where your from? It might be cheaper to use bug spray.

Snertly, a bit cheaper but not near the entertainment value as a six pack and a bug light. (insert dueling banjos emoticom here) That would be a bug zapper to you northern boys.

[Matt Griffin]

Mine is second hand, perhaps the gent that sold it to me can chime in, but it is pre-lock, the cartridges fall in and out very smoothly, and it didn't bind after 500 rounds with no cleaning in a single session, so it looks like you have to account for the usual manufacturing variance. I had the pleasure of showing it to my father today, and while his eyes are too far gone to use iron sights, I think he enjoyed seeing me hit a 8 oz plastic Coke bottle at 50 yards over and over, about 2 hits to every 1 miss. If I can figure out how to cock it quickly I'll definitely start shooting some bullseye with it.

H.

I am very happy that you like the 617. I am sure I will regret selling it. It has the aluminum cylinder, I dont know if thats the difference from the sticky chambers or not.

If that's the difference, then everyone should get that cylinder. Anyone who has seen me reload knows that I just use my index finger, and so far the 617 has offered no resistance at all. It sure as hell doesn't affect accuracy, either.

H.

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: I am thiunking of getting one these now. I am torn on which one to get the 4" or the 6" barrel? I know it has to be the 10 shot model but which one to get? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Eric

[Carmoney]

From what I've seen, I'd recommend the 4".

[Matt Griffin]

Hello: I am thiunking of getting one these now. I am torn on which one to get the 4" or the 6" barrel? I know it has to be the 10 shot model but which one to get? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Eric

Depends on if you're going to put an optic on it, I would think. Iron sights I would definitely go for the 6".

H.

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: I will not be putting an optic on it. I will be trying to use it for Rimfire matches and practice for my 646 and 686-7 which are both 4" barrels. My sons will also want to shoot it as well I am thinking the 4" model may suit all of us better. Thanks, Eric

[GlennRasch]

I took my new 617 out today, and had the most fun shooting since I started competing. I burned over 500 rounds, I just couldn't quit. Incredibly accurate, so accurate that I couldn't detect any variance in the gun, it was always something in my trigger pull. When I did my job it was like a laser pointer, the hole just appeared where I was pointing. Fantastic gun!

H.

AMAN to that.............. you can shot a long time on $20.00 bucks of 22's.............. 4" 617 10 shot ( LOVE IT )

[RevolverJockey]

I am not sure why I am considering buying a 617 as I can load .40 for 40$/1,000, but I am. I do shoot steel plate matches every month and it is certainly easier buy .22 than cast .40. Talking with my dealer and a few other places I have bought reasonably priced pistols before, looks like 650-670 shipped is the going rate - plus sales tax of course (on pistol and shipping - thanks Washington). For those that have recently picked one up, is that about right? Thanks.

For those who have one, if you were in my position and there was only a small ammo savings and the only benefit besides "fun" was not having to hassle with clips or the wear and tear on your centerfire, would you still buy one? Feel free to PM me, I am really wrestling with this one.

Lee

Edited August 2, 2010 by Mitch_Rapp.45

[Matt Griffin]

I am not sure why I am considering buying a 617 as I can load .40 for 40$/1,000, but I am. I do shoot steel plate matches every month and it is certainly easier buy .22 than cast .40. Talking with my dealer and a few other places I have bought reasonably priced pistols before, looks like 650-670 shipped is the going rate - plus sales tax of course (on pistol and shipping - thanks Washington). For those that have recently picked one up, is that about right? Thanks.

For those who have one, if you were in my position and there was only a small ammo savings and the only benefit besides "fun" was not having to hassle with clips or the wear and tear on your centerfire, would you still buy one? Feel free to PM me, I am really wrestling with this one.

Lee

Yes, if you like to shoot. Just set up targets and start burning ammo from the bench, it's so much fun after a few years of working with .45s to just play. Shotgun shells at 25 yards are very hittable if your eyes are good enough, and if you remember how amazing that would have been before you started competing, well some of that fun is still in the process. Plus, steel challenge!

H.

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: We shoot Ruger Rimfire once a month here and I thought it would be great for that. I also shot one about 2 years ago and loved it. The guy that let me shoot it had the speed loaders and setup block. It was very fast to load and very fun to shoot. I should have one coming next week Now I just have to order the speed loaders and setup block. Thanks, Eric

[MrBorland]

For those who have one, if you were in my position and there was only a small ammo savings and the only benefit besides "fun" was not having to hassle with clips or the wear and tear on your centerfire, would you still buy one?

Sure would.

1. Even if my .38 reloads cost me the same as .22 ammo (they don't), there's still a time issue for me. I reload by batch, and I'm not at all speedy at it. To go without my 617, I'd increase my time at the reloading bench several-fold. As it is, I have just enough time in my schedule to reload what I currently shoot.

2. Shooting rim fire steel with a 10-shot 617 is a hoot. For those who aren't put off by a DA revolver, I think it's about the perfect rim fire steel gun. Accurate, not fussy about ammo (i.e. no jams), no capacity issue, and it's very gratifying to know you can hang with semi-auto shooters at the game. Plus, I shot my first rimfire steel match last weekend, and got the impression a 617 shooter isn't something seen very often, so it seemed fun for them, too.

3. As Houngan suggested, with the smaller bullet, hitting stuff like shotgun shells and making 1-hole groups is tougher. And relative to a tuned CF revolver, it's likely the 617 will have a stiffer action to boot, so it may even improve your trigger control and/or overall shooting.

looks like 650-670 shipped is the going rate - plus sales tax of course (on pistol and shipping - thanks Washington). For those that have recently picked one up, is that about right?

Looks about right to me. I bought mine about 4 years ago and paid $600-ish.

[Jaxshooter]

Bob Perdue at North Mountain Products makes a speedloader holder for your belt that holds 5-617 speedloaders. It also works as a loading block. It is very convienient for Steel Challenge.

[RevolverJockey]

I might have missed it, but where can I order a few DS-10s and a loading block? I google searched it, but all that came up was a Windows Live page and a video that won't play without me downloading a Microsoft product. Anyone have a link?

Lee

[Team Amish 1]

Dave Skrzela sells them. They're worth every penny.

http://ds10speed.spaces.live.com/

Enjoy!!!

[Tom E]

http://ds10speed.spaces.live.com/default.aspx?sa=74261859

[Team Amish 1]

I looked again, the windows live page is what I posted.

His e-mail is ds-10-speed@hotmail.com .

[RevolverJockey]

Thanks,

I will send off an email.

Lee

[Matt Griffin]

You know, I see the point for steel challenge, but for just shooting I would think handloading would be quicker than reloading the speedloader itself. If you give a box of .22s a good shaking, they orient themselves base-up, I can usually grab 4 or 5 and put them in all together.

H.

[Tom E]

For screwing around, single loading is quicker than loading the loading block to load the speedloader. For matches I have extra loading blocks that go preloaded so I'm not fumbling around loading the block. Steel Challenge with a 617 is great fun.

Edited August 5, 2010 by Tom E

[RevolverJockey]

My concern in a local plate match is having people waiting for me while I reload. I will play around with it before I order one for sure. I should have my 617 from Mike in a few weeks or so - very excited to get a few months to shoot it before it turns cold here.

Lee

[Tom E]

My concern in a local plate match is having people waiting for me while I reload.

Go to the line with enough loaded speedloader for the stage, and a pouch/container to dump the the ejected empties and live rounds from your cylinder in. If you have enough extra (loaded) loading blocks you can reload your speedloaders between stages and not fumble with loose rds. Sort the empties from the live after the match. Nobody will be waiting on you.