90 degree Cmore mount

[matt2ace]

I'm probably the oddball (no surprise there ), but I wasn't able to get over my thumb hitting the mount. I suspect that will be true for me with any similarly styled mount, regardless of brand. I honestly thought I'd solved it with a tweak to the mount and some practice, but that wasn't really the case....shot it in a match and it was bouncing off my thumb the whole time. I shot several more matches and a few practice sessions and I couldn't make it go away

Bart,

I think the setup below would solve all your problems with a side-mount. Compact form-factor,7min dot, 3 mounting locations, and lense nearly as large as a C-more. I made the adaptor for both Cheely and Quinn mounts. Both mounts allow access to the adjustment screws. The Cheely allows access to the battery tray with the sight mounted in the most forward position, the Quinn does not.

Edited February 24, 2010 by matt2ace

[Steve_P]

I'm probably the oddball (no surprise there ), but I wasn't able to get over my thumb hitting the mount. I suspect that will be true for me with any similarly styled mount, regardless of brand. I honestly thought I'd solved it with a tweak to the mount and some practice, but that wasn't really the case....shot it in a match and it was bouncing off my thumb the whole time. I shot several more matches and a few practice sessions and I couldn't make it go away

Bart,

I think the setup below would solve all your problems with a side-mount. Compact form-factor,7min dot, 3 mounting locations, and lense nearly as large as a C-more. I made the adaptor for both Cheely and Quinn mounts. Both mounts allow access to the adjustment screws. The Cheely allows access to the battery tray with the sight mounted in the most forward position, the Quinn does not.

I love the color-match on the grip and accessories. Very nice looking blasters.

Steve

[G-ManBart]

I think you're getting to the 90* mount thing a little late Pretty much everybody, including the "upright" guys as you call them, said from the very start that the 90* mounts would be better for very short ranges in that the POA and POI will be closer together. They're better, but still not perfect. Once you get beyond a few yards it really doesn't matter any longer. Some upright mounts are better about this than others. The Brazos Slipstream is very low for an upright, and angled 1* to help keep POA and POI closer. It's so close that I don't have to worry about it on short range targets and it's still on at 40-50yds (think I zero'd it at 15-17yds). I haven't had any problem going back and forth from dot to irons, but that may just be that I'm used to it. R,

[G-ManBart]

[quote name='matt2ace' date='24 February 2010 - 10:40 AM' timestamp='1267026008'

I think the setup below would solve all your problems with a side-mount. Compact form-factor,7min dot, 3 mounting locations, and lense nearly as large as a C-more. I made the adaptor for both Cheely and Quinn mounts. Both mounts allow access to the adjustment screws. The Cheely allows access to the battery tray with the sight mounted in the most forward position, the Quinn does not.

That's a cool setup Matt! Unfortunately, my thumb was hitting the mount itself...mostly the horizontal part. I dished it out a fair amount and it was still happening. The only solution would be to move the entire mount forward, and there probably isn't enough dust cover on most guns for that to work. Matt said he's going to look at his mount and see if we might find a little room for clearance....be interesting to try. R,

[matt2ace]

I love the color-match on the grip and accessories. Very nice looking blasters.

Steve

Fun with anodizing

I just sent the CCG and adaptor out to get anodized in blue to match the rest of that gun.

[matt2ace]

That's a cool setup Matt! Unfortunately, my thumb was hitting the mount itself...mostly the horizontal part. I dished it out a fair amount and it was still happening. The only solution would be to move the entire mount forward, and there probably isn't enough dust cover on most guns for that to work. Matt said he's going to look at his mount and see if we might find a little room for clearance....be interesting to try. R,

That's one long thumb you must have Bart

As a lefty, I don't run into any problems with side-mounts. I only used an upright mount for a few months with my first STI open gun. I have used canted or side-mounts for close to three year now and won't shoot any other setup.

[G-ManBart]

That's one long thumb you must have Bart

Really, I try not to brag about it

Edited February 24, 2010 by G-ManBart

[AWLAZS]

Gman You use a thumb rest and the position of that makes your thumb hit the mount right?

Edited February 24, 2010 by AWLAZS

[caz41]

[

There are issues putting on a mount it isn't just take the screws out and screw the other one on. The mounts could be different thickness and you may need to get longer screws. The screws need to be ground off flat at the inside of the frame where they won't mess up the finish on your slide and stop the gun from running. If your current mount has be locktited then it may need to be heated with a propane tourch to get the screws out. Any of your local smiths should be able to do this for you inexpensively. YOUR CURRENT C-MORE will work fine and fit.

How much heat is needed to get them out. I put an allen wrench on them and they aren't moving, so I would guess they are locktited. I don't want to strip the heads.

[matt2ace]

How much heat is needed to get them out. I put an allen wrench on them and they aren't moving, so I would guess they are locktited. I don't want to strip the heads.

I use a soldering iron to heat each screw if they are tight. It's a little slower than using a torch, but it works.

[Jaxshooter]

I have very large hands and don't have a problem with my thumb on the mount. I have a Quinn mount on my 9mm Open gun. I put a thumbrest(the round checkered type) in the first screw hole on the mount and just let my thumb ride on it with no pressure. I do not know what brand the rest is or where you can buy them, I bought it from somebody on this forum. I would like to know where to get them for my backup gun and future builds. If your thumb hits the mount this may work for you. With this type mount I never have a problem finding the dot when shooting weak hand.

Edited February 25, 2010 by Jaxshooter

[G-ManBart]

Gman You use a thumb rest and the position of that makes your thumb hit the mount right?

Yes, but even if I take the rest off my thumb is still in nearly the same place

[G-ManBart]

I have very large hands and don't have a problem with my thumb on the mount. I have a Quinn mount on my 9mm Open gun. I put a thumbrest(the round checkered type) in the first screw hole on the mount and just let my thumb ride on it with no pressure. I do not know what brand the rest is or where you can buy them, I bought it from somebody on this forum. I would like to know where to get them for my backup gun and future builds. If your thumb hits the mount this may work for you. With this type mount I never have a problem finding the dot when shooting weak hand.

Sounds like the CR Speed/RHT pedal.

[CocoBolo]

How much heat is needed to get them out. I put an allen wrench on them and they aren't moving, so I would guess they are locktited. I don't want to strip the heads.

That depends entirely on which loctite they used. That's why I take mine to the smith. The smith was working on one of my guns changing a comp today and it took a lot of heat and stank up his shop but they got it.

I run a ghost holster and have no issue with the draw. I use to run a CR Speed and unless you put the big spacer in it you can't get your thumb between gun and belt no matter if you are running iron sights.

The Sidemore does require that you adjust your grip a bit and possibly adjust your draw, but you should have a full grip in the holster.

I sighted my SideMore in at 25 yards. If its 3 yards or 50 yards my hits are withing a 1/2 up or down from point of aim, with it being exact at 25 yards. I picked this distance because they like to put the Texas Star at that distance, then watch people unload all the mags on their belts.

I have said it before and I will say it again, if you have an upright mount and you have the time and tenacity to work at overcoming its inferior design you can overcome it. I tried but apparently not hard enough. If you have already mastered your upright spend the money on bullets and practice you don't need it, and its darn hard to unlearn.

Edited February 25, 2010 by CocoBolo

[Supermoto]

I have said it before and I will say it again, if you have an upright mount and you have the time and tenacity to work at overcoming its inferior design you can overcome it. I tried but apparently not hard enough. If you have already mastered your upright spend the money on bullets and practice you don't need it, and its darn hard to unlearn.

You are making it a lot more dramatic then it is. I run standard mounts, Cheely, Quinns, Arredondo jpoint mounts and a JV Dynamics mount. It take a few dry fires to get adjusted to the different heights. On the Cheely or Quinns my thumbs hit the mounts as I bring in my weak hand, both on the draw and reloads.

[caz41]

How much heat is needed to get them out. I put an allen wrench on them and they aren't moving, so I would guess they are locktited. I don't want to strip the heads.

That depends entirely on which loctite they used. That's why I take mine to the smith. The smith was working on one of my guns changing a comp today and it took a lot of heat and stank up his shop but they got it.

I run a ghost holster and have no issue with the draw. I use to run a CR Speed and unless you put the big spacer in it you can't get your thumb between gun and belt no matter if you are running iron sights.

The Sidemore does require that you adjust your grip a bit and possibly adjust your draw, but you should have a full grip in the holster.

I sighted my SideMore in at 25 yards. If its 3 yards or 50 yards my hits are withing a 1/2 up or down from point of aim, with it being exact at 25 yards. I picked this distance because they like to put the Texas Star at that distance, then watch people unload all the mags on their belts.

I have said it before and I will say it again, if you have an upright mount and you have the time and tenacity to work at overcoming its inferior design you can overcome it. I tried but apparently not hard enough. If you have already mastered your upright spend the money on bullets and practice you don't need it, and its darn hard to unlearn.

I have a ghost holster so that won't be an issue.

[Flyin40]

I think you're getting to the 90* mount thing a little late Pretty much everybody, including the "upright" guys as you call them, said from the very start that the 90* mounts would be better for very short ranges in that the POA and POI will be closer together. They're better, but still not perfect. Once you get beyond a few yards it really doesn't matter any longer. Some upright mounts are better about this than others. The Brazos Slipstream is very low for an upright, and angled 1* to help keep POA and POI closer. It's so close that I don't have to worry about it on short range targets and it's still on at 40-50yds (think I zero'd it at 15-17yds). I haven't had any problem going back and forth from dot to irons, but that may just be that I'm used to it. R,

I thought the main benefit of the mount was it solved alot of the ejection issues. The dot being lower to the slide was another benefit.

Flyin

Edited February 25, 2010 by Flyin40

[JThompson]

I think you're getting to the 90* mount thing a little late Pretty much everybody, including the "upright" guys as you call them, said from the very start that the 90* mounts would be better for very short ranges in that the POA and POI will be closer together. They're better, but still not perfect. Once you get beyond a few yards it really doesn't matter any longer. Some upright mounts are better about this than others. The Brazos Slipstream is very low for an upright, and angled 1* to help keep POA and POI closer. It's so close that I don't have to worry about it on short range targets and it's still on at 40-50yds (think I zero'd it at 15-17yds). I haven't had any problem going back and forth from dot to irons, but that may just be that I'm used to it. R,

[G-ManBart]

I thought the main benefit of the mount was it solved alot of the ejection issues. The dot being lower to the slide was another benefit.

Flyin

I'm not sure which was the driving factor. I thought it started out as "hey, this puts the dot where your Limited gun front sight is" and then folks realized that it made a big difference in getting the slightly more picky 9 guns ejecting more reliably, but it could have been the other way around. It sorta wound up as win-win without any major drawbacks...unless you've got mutant thumb positioning

[AWLAZS]

Gman You use a thumb rest and the position of that makes your thumb hit the mount right?

Yes, but even if I take the rest off my thumb is still in nearly the same place

That was the next thing I was going to do.

[JThompson]

I think it makes more of a difference than you let on. Try a stage with a lot of head shots at varied distances with NS under them... Also you are less likely to bounce one off ports or barrels due to offset. Mine is sighted for 15 yards and I can take it out to 100yrds and still be right on a ten inch plate. I can walk up to 5 feet and still be in the lower A zone. That's huge fro me not having to think to hold over or under as distances change. The transition from irons to dot and back is very easy. Taran Butlar uses a Quinn mount which can be seen in last months Front Sight. He says he never shot much Open because he didn't like how much he had to change his index and holding over close targets.. He loves it because he doesn't have to change now and has been shooting open more since he made the change.

There are a lot more of the upper class shooters using the mount, but I don't want to drop their names as I haven't talked with them about it. Taran doesn't care and has been promoting it for me.

Some people will never like it, but clearly, there are a lot out there who do.

JT

Edited February 25, 2010 by Flexmoney

[Fireant]

I think that front sight even had how he mods his Cmore to avoid the thumb issue. I am about to take a sanding wheel to one of my older cmores and see how that works.

[Jaxshooter]

My thumbrest is not a *thumb rest [generic]*. It is round appx 1/2" in diameter and 5/8" long it has the C-More mount screw countersunk running down thru the center of it. It is also checkered or knurled.

[cyburg]

I am also thinking about getting a 90 deg mount. My question is this. I have 3 pipols or however they are pronounced and am wondering if they would interfere with the site.

[Alan Adamson]

I am also thinking about getting a 90 deg mount. My question is this. I have 3 pipols or however they are pronounced and am wondering if they would interfere with the site.

YOu'll have to check, some 90 mounts are set further back to the rear (Quinn for example), but even Matt's 90 I think would work find with Poppel holes... you may have to remember to clean the scope between stages however, as it's a bit further forward than a Quinn mount.

Alan