jaredr Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 (edited) maybe my search-fu is weak, looked around but couldn't find anything that addresses this. Mods - if this is the wrong forum, pls move. My reloading shop is in our unfinished, unheated basement. Humidity's not a real problem - I run dehumidifier 24x7 mostly year round (it cuts off below 40 degrees, and we don't get temps that low until dead of winter at which point it's usually pretty dry). Heat in winter's another problem, have finally gotten tired of not really enjoying shop time Nov - March. Leaning towards natural gas (gas line is accessabile, already have easy location to vent). Concern was mostly that i'll have a large amount of powder and primers in the same room. Not a scientific well-informed concern (i.e. materials will be kept at other side of room, forced air nat gas heaters have no "exposed" flame) but still not entirely settled with the idea. Keen to understand what anyone else with similar requirements (unfinished loading room without access to central air, cold winter location) has done to make their area more hospitable. thanks in advance, Jared. Edited to add: just read through chris' very helpful post on fire safety, very timely to see it pinned after posting my inquiry on (basically) what is the safest way to heat a reloading area. Edited January 31, 2010 by jaredr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_Z Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I would suggest that you try cutting a 4" diameter hole in the return air duct as close to the floor as you can. By dragging the cold air off the floor you are making room for the warm air to replace it. This is a lot cheaper than running a dehumidifier year round. I don't know which part of the country you live in. If you run the AC during the non heating months this will circulate air in your basement and you shouldn't need the dehumidifier at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBuzzard Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I put in one of these. Heats the place up fast, and will keep the house from freezing up when power goes out for days on end and your primary heat is down. We get wicked ice storms that drop trees on powerlines.......two years ago it took almost two weeks for neighbors to get power back. BB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I bought a heavy duty electric utility space heater for my garage and it can keep it at around 50-60 pretty easily unless it gets into the low teens to single digits outside. But then it only drops to around 40 or so. I think you would be amazed how warm you might be able to keep your basement with one of those utility heaters. If the space is too big and sucks up all the heat try some foam board insulation and or a temporary wall around the loading/shop area. But I'll bet an electric heater will do the job. I don't like gas because I don't like messing with gas lines. And I worry about the "vent free" type gas heaters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoSteel Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I'm tied into my natural gas furnace for the house. What is nice about that is with the warm air circulating thru the basement the need for a de-humidifier in the cold moths is gone. I keep a desicant in my gun safes and in the winter it never needs a re-charge.. A nice option with natural gas is that if you go with a unit that has a manual start feature you don't have to worry about heat if the power is out... You would want to make sure the unit would not require a power vent though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mildot1 Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Would help to know what you aree using to heat the reat of the house??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredr Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Thanks for everyone's replies! Mildot1 - rest of the house is central heat driven by natural gas heat pump. Unfortunately, workshop area is unfinished, and tying the workshop into central heat would involve tearing up sheetrock elsewhere in the house which I'd like to avoid. Sarge's suggestion sounds like it is most expedient - no venting concerns like with LPG and no venting or installation for a natural gas heater. Challenge here it looks like most of the heavier duty space heaters require a 30 amp circuit, and all I've got running in the shop are 15 and 20 amp circuits Still, i'd rather pull another line from the breakerbox than much around with gas lines). I've checked online for the big box hardware stores (lowes, home depot) and have also checked online at grainger but couldn't find anything wired for residential 110 that had more than 5,000 btu. I've already got a 5k btu ceramic space heater which we use for warming up a guest bedroom - it's ok, but doesn't generate enough heat for the shop. I'll continue to check around online for 100v electric units, if anyone has found one that they're happy with, could you please let me know? much obliged, jared Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Hold on. Let me get the info from mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4d Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I would look at something that can be used as backup heat if the gas and power get cut off, wood stove, propane or kerosene heat. You may be way aahead of the game in the long run to insulate your shop area, A 5 k radiant ceiling mounted heater puts out a butt load of heat if the room has a little bit of insulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 This is what I have. http://www.amazon.com/Patton-1500W-Utility-Heater-PUH682/dp/B002U304K6 It works very well for me. I run mine on a 20 amp circuit but it is designed for 15 I do believe. AND shop around you can get it for around $20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredr Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Thanks Sarge - looks like Kmart has it local for $22, can't beat that. joe4d - taek your point, this won't help me if I'm without power for an extended time (ice storm that's brought down power lines, for example). generator will cover that, though if we're off the grid for more than a few days, i'll probably have bigger problems then staying comfy while hanging out in the shop -jared Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Hello: How about Long Johns and a bottle of Scotch Somebody had to say it. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue edge Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 http://www.theedenpurestore.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Smith Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I had forgotten about this till just now but a friend has a small electric mat, similar to under floor heating, in front of his work bench. He says it's remarkable how a little heat at the feet combined with a small space heater keeps him comfortable when he is working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redmanfixit Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 There are ventless catalytic gas heaters on the market for applications like this. They are radiant type and as you have an unfinished space, making it leak in a controlled way to provide make up air (combustion process will use O2 that must be replaced) should not be too hard. These require no power only a gas supply. Position it near your bench such that the radiant energy will warm you while you work. In the event of a power failure it can be used to keep pipes from freezing. Since infrared heats objects and secondary radiation will heat the air you should have little in the way of an ignition hazard with some simple precautions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthMuffin Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 (edited) Browse around the Heating and AC section at http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ and you'll get lots of ideas. I don't recommend a ventless system because they create a lot of condensation. I had one in the past and had problems with that. You don't want rusty dies Edited February 4, 2010 by DarthMuffin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 WE don't have many basements in San Antonio ,but I have stayed a Holiday Inn Ex. And In construction for almost 40 years Even if you go with Electric you will still have a humidity problem because you will be breathing and exhaling damp air. The smaller the space the more the moisture in the air goes up and the colder the air will feel. = moist humid 50 deg air feels like cold 40 deg dry air. And the lower the voltage to the elect heat the more Amps the heater uses. more amps = higher electric bill. a 240 heater operates at less than 1/2 the cost of a 120 volt heater.= ( on the Average) I suggest you look harder for a way to vent your area. = your Brain cells will thank you later in life. one idea would be Even if you used a doggy door kind of flap in the Basement door that has a block off slider that slips in the frame for when you don't want an open door to the basement. The doggy door flap could be propped open when you kick on the heat and left open to dry out the air Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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