rhett45acp

Currently Compete with 1911/2011. Depending on dress, location and weather. Glock 19, 26 or Kahr PM9 for carry. Sometimes still carry a PPK/s. It is my favorite, but the Kahr is starting to take the #1 position.

I picked up my FNS-9 LS last week, but I have been traveling so no time to play. I did order some Springer Precision basepads for the 8 mags. Safariland is supplying me a complete rig. (belt holster carriers). About the video above, yes the guy is a bit ~12324, but even a blind squirrel finds a nut. I plan on doing the polishing compound on the trigger bar/hoop. Else, I am going to shoot it as is. Will spray black the sights for now. Dawson will make a front sight for me once I establish it's current zero. The rear sight I am open to ideas.

bobapunk - Thanks for the info. The Holster looks pretty good also.

Hi, I just put a FNS 9mm LS on my local dealers to get list. I plan to do almost nothing to the gun except a little polishing and changing the sights. Question, it looks like the mags are very similar to Browning HP mags in the tube dimensions as pertinent to mag carriers???? Yes? What holster is recommended for Production? Kind Regards,

You mean yard sale items like these..... I love orphaned electronics, I'll snag, clean them up, play with them and give them away....

Graham, you hit that right. I use a APC 1500 for just the TV/Xbox/junk stuff. I just don't want to loose power in the middle of Borderlands 2. For the audio side, utility power is a nightmare (as with digital) and then add in the complexity of these do-all receiver things and you have a mess. Even with my two channel analog system I use a power generator, or more commonly called online system. A standard UPS backup output is expecting switched based power supplies to equipment - that is not what a robust power amp is expecting. My two channel is expecting a smooth sine wave all the way through. I had a house one time with a bad receptacle in series with the power conditioner, you could the thing go nuts trying to smooth bad power. Bamboo, I went from Electrostatic Speakers powered by mono blocks with outboard DACs and Pre-amps. I did not need to cut my heat on, that system took care of the heat during the winter. Scalded back to a Set of Spendor's and Integrated AMP with outboard phono preamp. I am not anti-digital. My house is littered with airports streaming from my MacBook to small systems. This is for cocktail hour and cleaning the house. After cocktail hour I can retire upstairs to the analog world and light off some Rob Zombie or Jack White - depending on mood. Thinking about building second system with a Jolida Tube Integrated....... The amount of $$ I have spent on audio I could have at least a half dozen SVI's sitting in the safe - its about priorities. About the Bose - I have often used the phrase "no highs no lows, must be Bose". But, for my application it works. The audio is coming directly from the TV so the sync between audio and video is spot on. With the past Onkyo Intergra's and Pioneer's I have played with, the audio sync was a PITA. You had to calibrate each source. Frankly I did not notice so much until a girlfriend pointed it out. OMG - ignorance was bliss. I chased that problem way too long.

Take it from me with a long history of A/V. Contrary to the trends you see in the box stores and ads, less is WAY more. Keep it simple. For Me - The TV, PVR, BluRay, Roku and Xbox One are all routed directly to the HD TV via HDMI. The Audio is routed from TV via F/O to a Simple Bose Solo 15 system. No, it is not going to shake the floor, but for processing A/V out of the above it is way more than what you need in the average room. The TV handles the switching and makes operation very easy. Something the others in your home may appretiate. Hence the Roku and BluRay. Yes, both of those functions can be completed by the Xbox One. But do I want the Xbox running (creating heat) just to watch Netflix or BluRay? Nope. And try to explain to your girl friend the Xbox controller..... My Audio is totally different. A Two channel analog system very simple and sole purpose in life is to Play Vinyl and CDs. While in the room it may look like it is integrated into the A/V, but it is not and does not even share the same 110 circuit for supply. Simple and Pure. Installed in a salamander open rack system for cooling. These 50lbs everything processing systems are nice at first, but they generate a LOT of heat and there is a LOT going on inside. The power supplies are a weak link in a lot of them due to current requirements. Combined that with the heat and stress on the circuit boards and its a hot mess. KISS Rt

Yes, it is easy, but easy is one thing, if the press is too high is another. I find the strong mount is too high for MY situation. I like to sit on a swivel stool to reload and the height is just right for me. In addition, the inline mount allows me to mount several different presses on one plate. So I only drill one set of holes in the bench. I can move my presses all around depending on my wants and needs at the time.

Hi, my SDB base is .38" thick. Your 2x4 from your description will be a problem possibly. The primer catch assembly will more than like hit the 2x4. I would highly recommend waiting to you get the press and take your time with a mock-up. Use some C-Clamps to test and check. Then Drill Mod as needed. I skipped all of this on my last bench build and purchased some universal plates from Inline. One of the best things I ever did when it comes to mounting presses. Nothing against the strong mount, but I like my presses lower than some and the plates are great. Check the Enos link below. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=206216&hl= RT

Hi, Just went through all this from a practical standpoint. I Moved a bunch of 9,40 and 45 via 5 gallon Homer buckets from HomeDepot. It was pretty simple 7, 6, and 5K respectively. Now will more fit? Maybe, but it is very impractical. 7K of 9mm was really pushing the construction integrity of the bucket. So, you may can get more, but can you move? ect. That may be the more practical question. With this formula, the buckets were also coming in around 70lbs each give or take a few pounds. RT

Nothing on this? I am in the market and want something between a hardcore pro version and a toy. Seems a lot of the cheaper ones use WiFi and that is not going to get the job done. Return to home would be nice. 720FPS 20 Min FT Panic Hover mode Replacement parts available. No, I don't want this at all for shooting, unless I get PO and shoot IT. :-) I want it to survey my own property. RT

I read this paper - more than once. A lot of lightbulbs went off in my head. MILS and MOA - Mil-Dot Also check out Brian Litz on the interwebs. Super cool dude. If you follow his works you will quickly realize no scope comes "correct". In one of his videos he explains how to calibrate a scope to your junk. Then once calibrated you shoot your "system". Learning the above paid me back in spades.

Joelh, This will fall very fast into a ford chevy thing. I am guilty already. Do some research. This site is awesome just for that. You have to find the direction you want to go with the best info you can find. The best part is, if you fall into this game, you make some mistakes and move forward. Then you will have True Direct knowledge and you can then pass it along! That is the best way to play it forward thing you can do. SD-B or 550, there is no bad choice. RT

Not to argue, but to a new guy, putting the lock ring underneath is very strange at best. I know what this does, but the OP is new. How much do really save by using the Lee dies versus the Dillon in the long run? My Dad was a Huge Lee guy and I have inherit parts everywhere. 5 years before his passing I purchased him a SD-B for 40. It sat in a corner unboxed for two years then he mounted it. His reaction "What was I thinking..." He loaded a ton of Rifle on an old Lyman American and I never question it or tried to push a 550. Just Saying....

Note, the 550 comes with caliber conversion but no dies. Did you check this? You will need dies. Your current dies may work, but the lock rings and length could be an issue. My 550 works well with Dillon and RCBS dies. I did use some Lee 30 Carbine dies and the Lee lock rings would not work correctly because of the O-Ring engagement area. I have seen this in 223 also. Spend Once, Cry Once - then enjoy. Whatever press you get, also add a parts kit. Dillon is the best on warranty, but you will not have the little plastic thingy at 10:30 Friday before a match. Murphy is out there. I ran a SD-B one night with a ball point pin spring for primer return. It happens. The spring did not break, but I was futzing around with the primer bar and sent the spring to Pluto in shag carpeted rental. RR

The 40 is a bit of a unique animal from where the brass comes from. If you are going to reload "once fired" brass out of who knows what you will want to do this step. The 40 will develop a ring near the base/web area that will not correctly size in a normal die. If you are shooting a glock or such you may not have problems, but if you are shooting some kind of 2011/1911 40 you will eventually have issues. Trust me, I went for years shooting 40 and then bam, had problems with brass supply. Note: I am not talking "Glock Bulge" This is the bulge that looks like a wart on the side of the case. It is destined for the garbage bin. That will happen almost in ANY gun that was shot not 100% in battery. But Glock took the heat for this, but that is a whole other thread!! Search and you will find soooo much on this. BTW - I have seen this in 9 and 45..... The X-Die resizes the outside of the case all the way down. It is a 100% pass through die. Check it out on their site. http://redding-reloading.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&Itemid=15&id=121%3Ag-rx-carbide-die-set Go with the Carbide Set. I lot of people, I will not argue against, swear by the EGW or Lee dies to size and have no problems with this setup. But, I like the X-Die process. The other benefit is you are inspecting your brass as it goes through the die. When my 40 passes the X-Die I have little worries about split cases and other such fun things for you will catch it. I tumble my brass. Spray with One-Shot and send to X-Die. If I go straight from the X-Die station to the main press I do not One-Shot. If it is several days later, I hit the brass again with a little more of One-Shot. I have an older RCBS RockChucker (great SS press) setup just to do this. I have also done the processing on a Redding T-7. I just don't want this type of turmoil on my progressive systems. You do this a while and you will know what turmoil means. You will hit some normal looking brass that during pass through you will be like, WTF? Rt

Get the SD-B. You said yourself you will be shooting 40 and 45. No offense to the lee fans, but use them for saltwater weights (or sell). I have SQ-B, 550 and 650. (and others) The little SQ-B will just churn out pistol calibers all day long. That is what it was made for and it does it well. Can you get a case feeder? No. Can you get a bullet feeder? No. But if you accept the fact you will use the Dillon dies and make about 300-350 quality pistol rounds an hour it cannot be beat for the money and simplicity. If you order it in 45 you can be reloading in just a few minutes after bolting to bench. Simple Simple. If you are going to be reloading 40, then I strongly recommending getting a Redding X-Die. It sounded like from your post you have some kind of single stage press? Put the X-Die in the SS press and process your 40 offline. I do this regardless of what press the 40 is going to be used in. Now I will put my other side on: Get the 550. Still toss the Lee dies and get Dillon. Still process the 40 offline on a SS. Sell the SD-B 40 conversion. Why did I present two points? You must ask yourself what will be your future for reloading? If you are only going to shoot the two pistol calibers then I stand by my first statement. BUT, if you think, at all about messing with rifle or such, the 550 is a workhorse. Frankly, speed wise - I see no different between the SD-B and the 550. You can index the 550 plate and place a bullet before your right hand can place a case in either reloader. I keep my SD-B simply setup for 9mm to churn out one load on demand. Think about your future and hopefully welcome to the Dillon world. RT

My Dillon powder measures have been very stable. I have moved twice in the last 8 years or so. I am using the same load for 40 and the same measure on a 550. It has not wavered. 4.3 grains. Even after being moved. I think that is pretty stable. But I did years ago polish and tune the measures just a bit. My adjustment bolts are pretty snug. I think if it was moving on its own I would investigate how much tension is on the bolt?

Check and Noted: I just need mags. I was at the point of getting reading to cut one of my frames down by < 1MM to be able to runt he MecGar bodies. I have also picked up an RI 51738 model and it works very well with MecGar bodies and Dawson bases. I really like my Paras (I like all steel guns) and I have been waiting forever for Mags. So this is a glimmer of Hope. I have four P16's so the base guns will last more than my old self. I have enough of the other Para exclusive parts to keep them running past my expiration date. The mags have been the super weak link. I just was a little confused by this post and having Para tell me "this spring or this fall" on mags for well over two years was a bit much! MBX seems like they can hit a big home run if they can deliver. Rhett

Youngeyes, I understand you moderating in the spirit of Enos, I get it. But now what is left behind has the uninformed wonder if MBX is in trouble or someone else? So, it is not so good have partial incomplete information that could be construed as negative towards some manufacture??? Would be best just to delete the whole thing and start over? I am super interested and anticipating these new mags for Para P16s. Just Saying. Kind Regards, Rhett

Thanks OpenB. I think I will reserve the Arrendondo stuff for basic Para setup. It is very interesting to me the RI will take both the Para and Mec-Gar mags and you tell me it will take STI. So, on your advice I think I will get a couple STI tubes/Dawson Pads and give it a go. I can't stand messing around with unreliable stuff. It will find its way in the parts bin very fast. Thanks!

Check this thread. I can pull the T7 and mount a SQDb in less than 5 minutes. Very good for my current situation. Keeps the reloading room compact and then I have a second room at another home. I use a big plastic container to store presses when not used. Toss in car and take to other site when needed. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=206216&hl=%2Bmounting+%2Bplates#entry2322622

+1 on this. I am thinking about the same thing right now. Two presses have a permanent home on my benches. 550b and Redding T7. They are just too versatile to sell off. They are really a do all. The 650 to me is more of a churn and burn machine. A couple of calibers 9/40 and just churn out ammo. I am highly considering getting a 650 just to do 40 and 9mm. RT

OK, I am getting this now. Mec-Gar + Arrendodno Follower + ISMI 140 "PA45" spring = 20 rounds reloadable, but tight. 19 is a breeze. Still only getting 18 with the Arrendondo Base and Follower. I have a couple of performance packs coming from Arrendondo. I have so many springs and stuff laying around I figured I would start all new just to see. Are any of you using the Arrendondo insert with Arrendondo Base? And if NOT, how are you disassembly/assembly without insert? Still have not found allen key to fit RI stock Mag Base. I need the tiny tool set for squirrel surgery. Cheers, RT

What Allen key did you use to get the RI base pad off the mag? With my MecGar mags, Dawson base pads and Para spring/follower I only get 17. +2 if you will. Are the grams springs square at the bottom? Thanks