kimberacp

all very good advice..."just do it"! but be ready to give up of alot of everything else in your personally life...for many, many, many years

Anyone remember John Dixon? He had a special Para Orndnace frame "gold color" that was...special!

why bother using a Caspian frame when S_I frames with metal grips are available!

KimberOpen guns, that was priceless!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I bought a "used" PXT 1640 off of Calguns about a year ago. It came with sand paper grips and a SA magwell for 850.00 dollars. I live in L.A. and thought I got a decent deal. It also came with 3 para tubes. The only change I've to it was to send it to Rob Melhorn, here in the valley, he does alot of Tarn Bulters guns. Changed out the trigger group with the usual tool steel hammer, sear and stuff for a 2 lb trigger. I also added JB weld to the top and bottom of the trigger, to decrease the "slop" on the top and bottom of the trigger, added a Dawson FO .100 front sight, the FO fell out and I replaced a black rod from my garage broom, I dont miss the red FO at all. Rod, also welded a spot on the pin for the rear sight, the typical drifting out of the pin from adjustable sights. While at the muffler shop, I asked the guy to weld a spot on to the mag release and at home I file and shape it, so that I can use my SV 40 mags with the gun. End result is a Para gun that uses SV mags and will shoot a 2" group or smaller at 25 yds, with the stock barrel! Load 180 FMJ, 4.6 TG, 1.180 OAL, with a 14lb spring and 17lb Mspring. Gun shoots great! As far as the extractor, I was worried but I just took it out and looked at where the brass was rubbing and used a file and dressed down the areas. I follow the advise on Brazo's website about tuning extractors. If it does break, I would just buy another extractor. I really dont see it an issue. I also have a Para 45 with the PXT extractor, just like the "Gun Rights" model. No trigger work but did add some relief to the secondary angle on the sear and the same JB weld to the trgger. I dress down the extractor hook, also. Guns shoot 2" groups with 230 gr, 4.0 clays, 1.255 OAL. Sure I except barrel bushing will break and maybe change the barrel in the future but in the meantime, they both great guns. True, there not int the S_I legend but they not that bad either. I do have a SV gun and I really like the way the steel gun feels when I shoot it. good luck, if I remember I will add a pic of the gun. thanks

what beavertail is that on your gun? is it one from SV? thanks

yes, very "cool look"!

I like it. Is the slide only cut back? It still has a 5" barrel?

++++++ with Derrick!

What if Remington started making a clip fed shotgun, like the Saiga. I mean Para is now making a AR, why not Remington? thanks

all these open guns look really cool but the only item that really needs some serous change is the C Moreor a better optic solution!

am not an Open gun shooter but that gun is beautiful!!!!! thats the way I would have an Open gun, 5" slide, light and short comp. the cuts on the slide are what does it for me!

raymond, great post with a very detailed photos. I get the idea and will make one. thanks

thanks for all the replies. And looking at some of the results from the local matches, I would have to say that SSP, is starting to look very appealing. I wanted a division where there would be alot of competition and not to expensive to reload for. SSP with a Glock 17 "RTF" is what I had in mind to use. I still think that CDP is the only way to go in IDPA but the cost of supplies is starting to be noticeable. I shoot more practice than what I do at matches. If it were the other way around, just shooting matches than I wouldn't complain. I just cant see spending time and money at a match and not preparing for it. But time will tell, this is next year and really the cost of 230gr bullets to 124gr is about 40-50 buck per thousand. Still need powder and primers...the cases are more. But I did want to standardize my reloading supplies, I shoot 40 also, same powder and primers for 9 and 40. anyways thanks to everyone.

I would like to standardize my reloading components and 40sw seems like the way to go. But to me and only me in IDPA, CDP is the division to shoot. Maybe because its the hardest compared to the others. I was hoping to get away from the 45 and go completely to the 40. I dont know why HQ does not add the 40sw to CDP , (shooting major PF), like in USPSA, limited in rounds as in the CDP rules? thanks, just my thoughts and I will probably next year shoot CDP with my 45!

I called this morning and all they said was to send in the complete gun for inspection and ONLY 47.00 dollars for a complete frame replacement. Along with a letter stating why am sending the gun in and with contact info and the FFL dealer for returning the gun. Of course I will have to go through DOJ and DROS the gun again and pay a transfer fee to the FFL dealer. thanks

I will be honest with them. I will post a photo of the frame later. But here are some.

thanks, those were my thoughts too. I will call on Tuesday morning.

I had a lower case seperation this afternoon. The trigger is cracked and the slide would not come off. I got the slide off but the magazine is stuck in the frame. Anyway, replacing the trigger would not be too bad, I thought but I noticed the frame is cracked where the ejector is located. How can I fix that or can I get a replacement frame from glock? Even I pay for it. thanks

Would forum member recommend them? Timney website has two listed; competition model and the skeletonized model for fifty dollars more. Have anyone tried these or is there something better to go with? thanks

I like you rebuilt gun! who is this Kevin Greeley? How can we get a hold of this guy? thanks

been looking for winchester Large Pistol primers but everyone is back ordered. Does anyone have them in stock? thanks

I have a P220 S/A. its a good choice for CDP. but then, if you can get a 1911 why shoot a Sig?

question, how are you able to shoot a AR with a removable magazine in Calif. in public? I mean at a private range you can get away with that and maybe there are no LE at your match and maybe there are but dont care. I just would be alittle worried about that. I like to try that but just worried about get busted. thanks

when mounting a clamp on front sight such as the Yankee Hill one, how do you align it with the rear sight, to ensure it is straight? I was looking through the pages of Patrick Sweenety's AR-15 book, and there is a photo of a smith attaching a front sight with a bar on top of the front sight to the top of the rear sight. Is this how its done or do you just "eyeball" it? thanks