want2race

The only problem I've ever had loading .40 on my SDB was the fault of oversized bullets. The resizer does a good job. I came back from a Glock shoot school with about 10k rounds of glocked brass. Since I switched to jacketed bullets, I have not had one single failure.

Exactly the point, for some. Balance. Only you won't be limiting yourself to 18+1 rounds with the STI grip. It's not for everybody, but until you've shot one with an Al grip you are guessing.

I like the undercut, the square corner inside the trigger guard and the angle cuts fore and aft of the frame mounting screw (the little one). Looks like the grip size mimics that of a shaved down gip, ready to have tape attached. MAN, that's some good work right there! He he he. Although I'm biased because I've shot an aluminum grip gun before. Makes for a well balanced gun. Like Honda says about their overweight race bikes, it's not the total weight that matters most, but where you put it. Actually, I think some shooters follow that too.

If it's in Vegas in 2010, we are SO THERE!

Thanks. I finished the show. Good stuff. Help me narrow down my HM shotgun search.

I've only seen the first 5 minutes but the first thing I noticed were muzzle breaks on the heavy metal rifles. Didn't think they were legal for HM. Flash hiders yes, comps no...or so I thought. Back to the rule book I go...

I didn't know these came on any factory guns. I believe Hogue came out with it, Knoxx bought it, then Blackhawk bought Knoxx. It's roots are definitely Hogue 'overmold' stocks.

I like the precut skate board style tape, after I undercut it. I only under cut for the strong hand.

It may change the POI, but I've had barrels cut and crowned and suffered no loss of accuracy. Break out the hacksaw...

I'm close to buying a pump gun. Need one for HM division. Looked at the compstock (now owned by Blackhawk), wondering if it's legal for Heavy Metal. I know that most 3G events are 'home range rules' but is there any concensus? I read the USPSA rules and it mentions: no compensation, devices to control or reduce recoil. I could argue both sides on this one. The stock does nothing to reduce actual recoil, it does affect "felt" recoil.

Not enough information to verify.

Odd. There's a lot of us using Universal Clays for Major. I'm going it with 5.0gr. Far from the max load listed in the manuals.

I run 3.8 for a little extra oomf on steel. Same bullet weight, same powder, 1.125 OAL. I used to run 3.6 with 180 moly's though. Never had a problem.

Slide hang-over is normal. I've had MUCH more than what you have in your pic. Once the barrel is fit, I file the back of the slide and contour it to match the frame. I've seen the aftermath of a barrel fitting where the lugs where cut until the slide was flush. The barrel cammed WAY down in full lockup. It never did feed right. Well, that is until the fitter hogged the hell out of the chamber mouth. Bulged cases where the result, until the lug feet broke. That's when I got it. I've read HSMITH post that the link is at 1 degree past vertical, when fully in battery. Well, this is what it is supposed to be. The down and dirty is: The disconnector is fully in the notch, and the safety engages the cutout in the slide. Thanks Howard. I'll check that. How do I know when I am done cutting the bottom barrel lug? I measured both holes and the meat between, and I came up with exactly .278 inches. I put in a #3 link pin, installed the barrel and everything cycles really well. But I noticed the slide isn't flush with the frame when the barrel is in battery. And I've lost about 8 thousandths of lock up. I put some Dykem red on the back of the bottom lug to see where the barrel is hitting the frame. I just need to tear the gun apart and check. Edit: I just uploaded another video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHlKb10kNwc

The dychem will show where the barrel alignment gage (the rod) is hitting the breechface, instead of going in the FP hole.

Dychem the breech face and lightly tap the alignment gage with a mallet. You might be slightly left or right too. 50 thou would put the firing pin strike on the primer just north of center, usually.

I'll do $3.00. The width of the hood or the length?

You don't know how far you can go until you've gone too far. Been there.

This will be our third annual trip to Ohio over labor day to shoot a match. Camped every time. Can't beat the price!

I used Kydex up until this past sunday. Previous to that, I sold my Ghost as I didn't find it comfortable. I'm now using a Speed Sec. I really like how light it is, very secure when locked. I also like how wide the belt attachment is too. Good price.

I use the same block, but I had to open it up for the KKM barrels. When I opened it up I was able to center the barrel. Maybe the Kart is thinner in the lug area.

He's gonna seamlessly weld it all back together. With a match. Don't be ridiculous! I'll use 2 car batteries wired together, hold a welding rod with jumper cables and zip it back together that way. LOL! RANGE TRIP: Woo Hoo. Love it when I can get out for some extra trigger time. Took the wife, 3 yr/old, Steel1212 and his better half too. Function tested the flat wire spring set up. It was too stiff and the rails were a bit dry. It functioned, but ejection was weak. Some oil and leatherman'd two coils off the spring. Perfect. 4 O'clock ejection about 3 feet out. Tested with IDPA fart loads, IPSC major loads and let the wife shoot it too. We moved over to do some bench shooting since I was called out. Seems that 25 and 50 yard groups are needed to truly showcase a CCW pistols true accuracy. Held the pistol in a rested position and let rip with the first 5. 1.345" group at 25 yards. My eyesight is crap so I'm sure the gun can do better than I am capable. For me, shooting at 25 yards is a test of concentration, skill and eyesight. I'm happy with the results. O-ring on the barrel is still going strong. Earlier I did some tests using a few different o-rings. I swapped them out to check for changes in group size (at 15 yards because I can see the target at that distance) and POI shift. None noted. My next project? Already underway. Open top end for my Limited frame. I have an old 5 inch top end with bull barrel. So far I've cut the barrel back .400" and reduced the diameter for a cone comp (yes, on the drill press). Already shortened the slide too. I had to outsource the threading and reaming the comp to .420" diameter bore. Can't do that on a 10" drill press and the dies to thread the barrel cost more than outsourcing it. Already have the aimpoint, double sided frame mount and 26 round .40 big stick.

I only use STI tubes. Bolen internals and bases. Zero failures. 21 rounds, almost 22. Initially I had to smooth some things out on the inside for the follower to pass by the ribs. 20 is good enough, 21 is just a bonus. I really was just after a 20 reloadable. My 170 .40 mag holds 26, Bolen guts and base. Tougher than snot to load rounds though, open gun's not done so I haven't fooled with it yet.

That's kind of where I was headed with my question. Instead of all the hassle of ball detents, drill a hole for the set screw to set down into (won't 'slide' off) or replace set screw with small hex bolt.

Is there a need to have the racker come out on demand?