Guy Neill

I don't know about all 45 Auto changing to small diameter primers, but the non-toxic or lead free stuff from Federal and Winchester changed a while back. Federal NT is crimped as well. This was two to three years back, as I recall. It means that a visual inspection will be needed to separate the cases. The diameters are different enough that visual should be adequate. Guy

I like the Redding T7. It replaced a couple of single station presses on my bench. Guy

I don't see that you mention if you have tried a different brand of cases to see if they do the same. If a different brand works, it suggests the Winchester cases you have have tight or shallow primer pockets. Another problem can be the radius at the bottom of the primer pocket. If too large it will not let the primers seat completely. Uniforming will take care of a large radius in the bottom. You might try using a uniforming tool on some of the cases anyway, to see if much or any material is removed, and how the seating operation progresses afterwards. And there could be a tolerance stack-up. For small pistol primers, the primer should range from 0.1745" to 0.1765" in diameter, and 0.115" to 0.125" in height. The primer pocket can range from 0.1730" to 0.1745" in diameter and 0.117" to 0.123" in depth. As you can see, a maximum height primer in a minimum depth pocket will have the primer above flush. In these instances, the fix is uniforming the pockets or changing the components. Guy

I'm in-process of moving, so I do not have everything at hand to refer to, but my recollection is that I used the Lasercast data. Check with them and get one of their cast bullet manuals. Guy

I have frequently used Red Dot in the 40 with lead bullets, but have used other powders with jacketed bullets. Red Dot with jacketed bullets is a top end load with regard to pressure. Guy

A lot depends on where you are with the powder charge. If a maximum load, I would not shoot them unless I first tried some loaded lighter. The magnum primers are quite a bit more powerful than standard primers and will affect the ignition. They may be powerful enough to move the bullet, then having the powder gases catch up. The larger and longer duration flame will also light more individual powder granules initially, evolving more gas faster than a standard primer. Unless you have loaded a large quantity, I would disgard or salvage. Guy

If it is a new barrel, best would be to return it. This includes if it is in a new gun. At least talk with the maker. Otherwise, lapping may be possible, but will enlarge the areas lapped. It thereby depends on where the dimensions are to start. You may or may not have material to remove, depending on where in the tolerance the dimensions are already. Guy

Congrats! Have fun - shoot good. Guy

It's good that the bullet prevented another round from chambering, but no one should count on this if a squib occurs. If any round sounds "different" the gun should be checked. I've seen a number of bulged barrels from people that did not stop, and I've stopped a couple from firing a second round after experiencing a squib. Better to blow a stage than a gun. Fortunately, it is very rare for the gun to come apart and injuries are even more rare, but still better not to test things. Guy

It works pretty well. Whether or not it is worth the price depends on your needs. It will allow greater consistency in your cast bullets. It may depend on the caliber you are using, since higher velocity cartridges will benefit more from harder bullets. Of course, bore smoothness and matching the size of the bullets to the bore diameter also play a part. Overall, I would recommend it for the most consistent cast bullets, but the final decision is up to you. Sometime back I wrote about it in "Front Sight". Guy

AGI has a video on building a Limited gun. That might show you whether or not you want to tackle such a project. Guy

While small pistol and small rifle primers are the same dimensionally, that is not true of large primers. Large pistol primers are shorter than large rifle primers. If large rifle primers are used in pistol primer pockets, the primer will not seat below flush as it should. In a worst case situation this could result in slamfires, or bind cylinder rotation in revolvers. The power of different primers is dependent on both the amount and composition of the priming compound. When I was with CCI, the small pistol and small rifle were close in power, but not the same, with the rifle being a bit more powerful. The rifle primers did (do) have thicker cups as well. Guy

I, too, am sorry you had such a reception. I was Section Coordinator in South Texas in the early 1980's and that is definitely NOT the attitude I or most of the shooters wanted to portray. Guy

I'll be wandering around there somewhere. Looking for things to write about or contacts for possible employment opportunities. Guy

I've been very pleased with the Levitation system. Some years back I wrote about it in Front Sight. I've not used a CR, so I cannot compare there, but between a standard 012 and the Levitation version, I prefer the Levitation. Guy

The cantilever mount that attaches to the rib has worked well for me. Guy

Here's the information from the January, 1973 SWPL Rule book on "Combat Master". Section 12 --------------- Designation as Combat Master 12.1 The highest League shooting classification is "A". The designation as "Master" (gold border) is awarded by a majority vote of the Board of Directors in recognition of distinguished performance with the full duty combat pistol over an extended period. In addition to demonstrated master of combat shooting, the Master must have contributed to the technique, promotion, and prestige of the sport of combat pistol shooting. The designation is therefore both demonstrable and honorary. 12.2 To be considered for designation as Combat Master, the candidate must: a). Hold and "A" rating. . Have competed regularly and with distinction for three years. c). Have won three overall firsts, in contests of different types. d). Demonstrate superior command of heavy calibers, .357 Magnum and above. e). Defeat all existant Masters (except those inactive) at least twice in formal competition. f). Fire, on demand, three of the following scores, with a full-duty combat pistol; 1. 500 on Index (5 draws, 7 yards, 12" metal target). 2. 285 x 300 on the National Match Course (free style). 3. 98% on the Practical Pistol Course. 4. 170 x 180 on the Mexican Defense Course (Improved). 5. 490 x 500 on the Advanced Military Combat Course. g). Submit, as a "Masterpiece", some additional outstanding feat, performed with the combat pistol, which is of sufficient importance to warrant outstanding honorary recognition. Guy

Like Stevens book on the High Power, Larry Ruth has "War Baby" and "War Baby II" through Collector Grade Publishers. They are good references. Guy

Classes were implemented very early. Practical pistol competition started with the southern California combat matches, evolving into the Southwest Pistol League. The 1973 SWPL rules I have define "A", "B" and "C" classes for the shooters. Clasifications at that time were based on your performance in the first three matches you shot. If you placed in the top 20% twice, you were classed "A". Twice in the top 50% (but not in the top 20%, you were "B". Everything else was "C". This was extended to your annual performance as well, based on placement in matches you shot. One thing that was a bit different was that "A"'s competed with everyone. If a "B" placed ahead of an "A", then the points normally awarded (for year end prizes) were not given to the "A" shooter, having been beaten by the lower class shooter. "C"'s could beat both "A"'s and "B"'s, but "C" shooters were only competing among the other "C" shooters for their points. Shooters could be designated a "Combat Master" if they met a fairly length list of criteria. Guy

Many years ago, in the earlier days of IPSC, I did a side match I called "Snub Gun Fun". The prime rule (other than safety) is that the gun must have a barrel less than 4" long. Since I did not trust people to have holsters for the small guns, at least any I wanted them drawing from at speed, so the start was with the gun on a card table. The shooter sat at the table. I don't recall the hand position at this point, but it would work with any consistent hand position, on knees or flat on table, for example. There were two IPSC targets, one at two or three yards slightly to the right, and one at five yards slightly to the left. A clay pidgeon was mounted at the opposite side of the card table. At the signal the shooter acquired the gun, fired two rounds each at the two targets, then broke the clay pidgeon. I don't think we scored it other than time, as long as everything was hit. Entry was a dollar a run, run it as many times as you wanted. Cash back to the top three with accounting for half the money, with the other half going to the club. It seemed popular with the shooters and gave them an opportunity to see how different (or hte same) things could be with guns they rarely shot under time pressure. Guy

As Patrick mentioned, the Vihtavuori Manual has some data on the 9x21. I was thinking of Jeff Maass's data online. I believe there is a link on the USPSA website. I've used chronographs from PACT, Oehler and Competition Electronics and all are capable. Much will depend on the features you want, such as the PACT being a timer as well for the Mk IV. Overall, any of them will do the job. Guy

I'm not ertain any data was ever published on the 356 TSW, but the data shown in IPSC loads for the 9x21 will work. As always, start low and work up, watching for excessive pressure signs. A chronograph is a handy tool to have during this process. Guy

If the range is not cleaned and then dedicated to lead free ammunition, lead exposure levels will not significantly decrease simply by changing to lead free ammunition. The concussion from shooting will shake lead from the facility and continue exposure. I am not aquainted with the details of the cleaning process, but it is more than simply mopping and scrubbing. It may require steam cleaning or such, but it can be done. Once cleaned, using lead free ammunition exclusively will see lead exposure essentially eliminated. Guy

For equal weight guns, using ammunition giving the same power factor, the recoil will be the same. The impulse may vary, giving a different "feel", however. This is mostly seen when trying different bullet weights in a single cartridge. Light bullets going fast tend to have a briefer impulse, feeling like sharper recoil while the heavier bullets give a longer impulse, felling softer. But, as stated, equal power factor in a gun of equal weight gives equal recoil. Guy

Bullet stability is dependent on the RPM's. The RPM is controlled by the combination fo the barrel twist rate and the muzzle velocity. The longer (generally heavier) a bullet, the faster it must be spun to stabilize. The 1:12" twist of the military 5.56mm was because of the boat tail 55gr bullets. As the military has gone to longer (heavier) bullets, the twist rate has been increased as the velcoity has dropped. Calculate the RPM by this formula: RPM = 720 (velocity/twist) Example: RPM = 720 (3000 fps / 12" twist) = 180,000 RPM On the other hand, Greenhill relates the twist rate and the bullet length. While there are more precise methods, the Greenhill formula is simple and usable. It is expressed as; Twist = 150 (d^2)/L So, for a 0.224" bullet 1" long, Greenhill shows the needed twist as; Twist = 150 (0.224"^2)/1" = 7.5" However, Greenhill does not show velocity as a variable. I suspect there is a velocity component built into the constant, but have not found ebough detail to say for certain. A modifier I added some years ago uses the Greenhill twist, multiplied by the square root of the velocity divided by 2000. Thereby, the modified twist with my modifier would be; Twist' = 7.5" (sqrt (3000/2000) = 7.5" * (sqrt (1.5)) = 9.1" The Greenhill will normally err on the faster twist side, making it a usable twist rate. Extreme cponditions (cold) will also affect the needed twist. Artic onditions will need faster twists, mostly from the reduced velocities. This does not specifically answer your question, but should give you the means to determine what you want out of the gun and bullet. At least I hope it is of some help. Guy