George

+1 to Chet, total BS from a storebound geek

CVC owns Alpha Prema now which just closed a deal for Dorna and FOM but Bernie still calls the shots I am going to Laguna Seca to see MotoGP this weekend. Indianapolis would NOT be as good of a venue for MotoGP as Laguna Seca is. MotoGP has had Laguna Seca on it's yearly calendar ever since FIM Homologation was achieved back in 2005.

Do the mags drop-free when you depress the release? If they do AND they go directly in with no rock-in-place routine like some other non-AR's, then you may just have a little winner once you get a brake on it. Cool :-)

Hi Eric, If you partition the XP section of the HD 32GB, or less and in FAT32, then the OSX side can drag-n-drop in and out of the XP partition with full write priveleges. The reverse is not true and Windows cannot see OSX at all and thinks it's little partition is it's whole world. This is actually a good thing considering viruses and such as the X part of the drive is immune to anything that happens in the XP partition. I just leave a folder on the XP desktop earmarked for files that need dual access. Then I create a shortcut/alias to that folder on the OSX desktop. This allows cross system file access, just managed in OSX. If you use NTFS for the XP partition, then it's read only to OSX and file transfer requires external media usage. I find FAT-32 a good option if you will use the machine equally in both, or primarily in X. Almost always in XP, NTFS may need to be the choice for the extra long term robustness of the filesystem format. The emulators that run inside X (Parallels and DarWine) use additional overhead on top of any actual XP partition and do not run all 3rd party software properly like a true dual boot system will. You will have to check the developer site for Parallels to see if your app set is supported as the emulator is not 100%. Total time to boot from XP to OSX and vice versa is under 25 seconds on a MacBook Pro and about 35 seconds on a MacBook so getting bacdk and forth is a snap in practice on true dual boot machines.

15-20 years in not an issue if stored dry and at stable temp

1080p and 720p are HUGELY different. You want 1080p if you want real HD. The difference in price is reflected in the difference in image quality. 720p is barely HD. The 1080p Plasma's don't have the full 1920x1080 pixels, but they do process the signal much better and provide increased resolution. Worth the bux IMHO. Buying online is not the risk you think it is. Just takes longer for everything

Merlin, look for Panasonic Viera Plasma's in 42" 50" & 58" Just moved up to a 58" from a 50" on trade with friend who thought it was too big. A 42" one should go off at about $1.5k and a 58" is gonnna set ya' back near 3k (if you get a good deal). Shop the mfgr site first and get model numbers, then search pricing and use that as a guide when shopping stores. Wall mounts are best bought online (70-80 bux versus 200-250 in stores). Get a DVD player with HDMI and make sure it is "Upconverting". I just go the "HD" route and am not buying into Blue Ray for now. The HDMI cable can be had online for a lot less than in the stores too (16 bux versus 60 bux). Here is a link for cabling at better pricing: http://www.sfcable.com/ I buy Altec Lansing powered speaker systems that have IR remote controls and use the line level audio output from the TV to drive them. I then leave the plasmas speakers turned off as they are just not as as good as external systems. The Altec systems I have been using for home theater and video editing systems lately are 2 way with suwoofer and really kick. I have been getting them at stores like CompUSA and Fryes for $99 to $129. These systems will rock a small room. They also have Dolby 5.1 surround systems with optical in for a little more if you want the whole hawg! PM me if you need any more info.

The Keyspan USB to Serial adapters are the heat and they work fine with real PC's and Intel Mac's running dual boot with BootCamp. I do RS-232/422 control of many different analog devices using control programs from way back in the 90's and all of it works just fine with USB to Serial adapters. The hardest part is sorting out which USB port is which serial port and even that is a breeze :-)

Loctite makes a high temp adhesive that specifically bonds metal to metal. It's what I used and 4 years later, that suckah' is still stuck like glue. BTW, JP didn't recommend JB

For Linux, try SimplyMEPIS

OK, only actual limitation in hardware compared to any modern dedicated PC is the lack of a right-clicking trackpad. A software hack exists to restore this, or use a USB mouse. Compared to older PC hardware they do lack a 9 pin serial port if you need RS-232/422 and a parallel port is not supported. Then again, these haven't been available on notebook PC hardware for a few years anyway. A MacBook Pro 2.2Ghz Core-Duo comes with 2GB of 667Mhz SDRAM and an NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GT video card with 256MB VRAM and Dual-Link DVI out. You get a 5400rpm 100GB SATA HD standard and can go up to 200GB 5400rpm, or 160GB 7200rpm. These are real powerful machines. The MacBook's are not much wimpier, just plastic and not as big on some internals.

Get XP Pro here: http://www.royaldiscount.com/ Solid folks, solid OEM product.

Chuck, I do not get 210.83.183.14 from any search on 216.12.81.142 which is the IP Brian actually listed as the offender. It comes up in VA, USA as ww.ntelos.net as mentioned earlier. +1 to Shred on "he must not be very good". If you found him fast, he's just a butt-munch and probably not capable of masking his IP. If he could do things like that cleanly, you would probably have only have found him after the money was gone ;-/

Eric, buy a MacBook, or MacBook Pro and send it to me for a few days. I'll send it back to ya' as a dual boot machine running XP Pro. Screw worrying about whether Vista will have issues, stay in XP, it's finally robust and doesn't take much system overhead compared to Vista's bloated carcass You can get full warranty refurb Macs at this link: http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebO...pecialdeals/mac Now that Apple has released BootCamp 1.2 (& 1.3), the MacBook models can be made dual boot also. Refurb MacBook's are availale for $999 at the link above. Otherwise, I hear ya' about trying to find a new machine in a store running XP Pro nowadays. You could just have Dell build ya' one up with XP Pro as they still do that. BTW, I am now the proud owner of a matched pair of MacBook Pro 2.4Ghz Core-Duo 17" notebooks with 160GB 7200RPM SATA drives, 256MB VRAM and 2GB SDRAM. These are my new rental machines and they are flyin' out the door since I announced that I have a pair of them available (might have to buy 2 more!). They both dual boot in OSX & XP Pro and they are simply the fastest, most reliable PC I have ever had my hands on :-)

Always trim to 1.750" after the first firing and resizing. Growth will be slower after that. NEVER load cases longer than 1.760" unles you are SURE the chamber is generous. To be safe, just don't use longer than 1.760" EVER! If you do the 1.75" trim after first firing, you will get at least 2 more, if not 3x before you get too long (as EricW mentioned). ALWAYS lube when sizing bottleneck rifle cases PERIOD

Norbert, Briley does porting, just send the bbl to them. After they port it for ya', do the JPoint melt-in yourself like I did. Dremel out some vent rib, scrub the bluing off to get good adhesive grip and use a hi-temp bonding agent. The only trick is bore sighting the dot while/before the glue sets and making sure the mount is level when the glue dries. I used a gun vise (bbl only), leveled the bbl with a bubble level on the receiver and clamped it so the bbl was bore sighted on a 2" dot 20 feet down my hall. Then I glued the Jpoint mount in place with Jpoint in place and energized. Then I tweaked the mount until the JPoint dot was registered with the 2" dot on the wall at the end of the hall. As it dried, I kept checking the level and zero to makes sure it didn't settle off kilter. When I tested it at the range, first shot with a slug at 50 yards was a dead centered A

I think cleaning woul be be a better alternative to closing and at this point, the image cleansing is already done so on with the show folks.Group Hug? Yeah Right!

BTW Sharyn, the item you linked to is a printer only and not full on duplicator with integrated printer like I mentioned. Here are some options: http://www.octave.com/cgi-bin/shop/shop.cg...item/1173431426 http://www.primera.com/bravose_disc_publisher_pricing.html http://www.mediatechnics.com/pages/ipd4160.htm

For 1-10 runs you will take forever to amortize even a 700 dollar machine. That's a cheapie BTW, the good ones go for 1000+ and the ones commercial dupers use run 2 to 3x that! I do all my 1-25 runs using the CD Stomper with their "White Film" labels and the results look like commercial product :-) Inkjets are not the only option, there are color laser labels, just not the selection of stock inkjets have. The inkjet ones have much better image "pop" than the laser ones IMHO. If you have an old Epson, or even an HP, an inkjet head cleaning kit may git ya' going again. Here is an FAQ on care and feeding of Epson inkjets: http://www.applescore.com/faq/faq_qanda.php?id=84

Sharyn, I use the "White Film" labels by CD Stomper in an inkjet. They require some practice and technique to apply, but when done right they are almost indistinguishable from professionally screened replicated discs and duplicator stlye print-on discs run on a high-end duplicator system. For small numbers of one-off projects I do it this way. The labels cost about 50 cents a pop and you will burn a good handful learning how NOT to apply them The glossy ones are my fallback for stuff I want to look OK, but don't want the hassle of the thinner "White Film" ones. The lightscribe ones are monochrome and don't reproduce images well. Always let them dry well after printing and before applying. The finger pressure it akes to get them applied properly will smear them if not fully dried first. The CD Stomper instructions do not work as advertised. I take a blank disc and pu a clean white plain paper lable on both sides and use this as a platten against the optical side of the disc getting the label applied. This allows you to press down all around the disc as the label is being applied in the Stomper press. The Memorex press system sux hind teat, get the CD Stomper one. The all in-one bulk duplicators that include a printer in the system are the only way to get good looking output in bulk and cheap. The ones that come in a sheet that runs through a regular printer are way too expensive to use for bulk compared to the spindle bulk packs of print on discs. PM if you need any details.

This thread is an official "Free Fire Zone" and posting in it may have consequences

As Benny said, if you have to unload more than a couple shells, you are wasting time loading too many extras while on the clock. As far as getting them out, when the stage is over, just rack them through is what I do. When it locks back stop and look. If you have to rack more than twice to empty the gun, see above

I have always worked reset on anything I shoot (rifle, pistol, shotgun). It's a thang' that a lot of top, midde and bottom folk do, but then again, some don't. It's a racers choice issue. You either do it, or you don't, it's faster for some, slower for others. You actually need some level of experience to understand correctly if this is working, or not. One size fit's all is not always right. Try it for now and see what happens as you progress. I like enough reset travel to "be" aware of it, but I DO NOT like "hair" trigger's. Too light of a sear letoff setting is what causes most cases of premature letoff IMHO. A crisp trigger is what is "actually" most important. A light trigger is not necessesarily a crisp trigger

Good call on the tank brake until you get something as effective worked out. Only a can works as well so far Lotsa' places to stretch it out a bit in the west. Take a trip out to the high desert once you get it run in at your local range. I throw some steel in the truck and drive over the hill to Reno when I wanna' shoot some real distance. Cheap hotels' and food in the casino towns and plenty of wide open space outside em' :-)

I usta' thimk' 11141 was a pretty darned "Johnny Come Lately" kinda' number to have. Maybe I'll hang at TY until I get a chance to get the same Lifer number as I have now