George

Best holster for Ironman IMHO is a strong-side good retention one like a blade-tech, or any other Kydex type that grabs the gun and holds it in place securely and yet allows a one handed draw with a firm, deliberate pull. Thigh rigs are not superior at this match by any means. I have only been to the Ironman twice so my opinion may not matter as much as others who have been there more often than that ;-)

It may, it may not. Any change in the gas exit envelope can possibly effect POI, but not always. In other words, like already stated, ya' gotta' test it.

The JP gunsmith in kits and both the JP and McCormick drop-in units are horses of a differnt' color compared to ALL other trigger groups in existence. Even the Jewel is not quite the equal of the crispness that can be had in a full install kit JP trigger system. The JP and McCormick cane be safely set for sub 2lb pulls and almost no takeup, or reset throw. The metal is not surface hardened like most are and it holds it's way better than anything else out there. That said, all things wear and 12-15k is about where the JP metal needs to be replaced IME. Not bad for a sub 2lb trigger with no slack, creep, or slop at all. The bump-fire issue is pretty much a second/third trigger pull thing from the rifle movement against the shooters trigger finger. Loose grip thing!

Yeah, I have the older style too and when it worked loose on me a few years back, John Paul said to just use some Loctite to put er' back in place. He very specifically said to use BLUE!

Exactly! Considering the size hole a slug makes in the target and how large it's PF is, those are very appropriate points rewards IMO.

Without even doing a "view source" I'm thinkin' Joomla It makes for a pretty clean portal site with the right skinnin' ;-)

It can "possibly" help with slam-fire issues, but it is NOT the cure for bump firing. I have a Ti pin and lo-mass alloy carrier in my JP rifle and mine will still bump fire a burst any time I do the "bump fire dance routine" properly (soft-paw the gun and partially work reset on the trigger with a tentative trigger stroke and release). End of story

Bump firing of multiple round bursts in match stages when the fire control system checks out fine is typical with a very lightly set JP trigger group. The best solution is more sear engagment and reset, or learn how to shoot it with a more purposeful trigger finger. This happens mostly when pussy-footing the trigger and having the gun rested can exacerbate it if you have a full weight bolt and recoil system as Rigger JJ stated. A Ti firing pin can help but is not the cure. It is mostly the nut behind the bolt that causes this. I can make mine do it on cue if I soft-hold the gun and loosey-goosey the trigger stroke.

Yes it would and it would make a lot of sense considering the huge PF (500+PF) of a reduced recoil slug compared to a pip-squeakin' (320PF) major rifle! That is correct and it needs fixin' bigtime IMHO. Club level multi-gun matches DO NOT have to follow the USPSA rulebook to the letter seeing as there are no classifiers for long guns, therefore no mission count and any reason to adhere to Level 1 requirements whatsoever (other than wanting to that is). Until the rules are fixed things like this will have to be done this way if they are to be done at all ;-) BTW, add 10 point slugs on paper to wish list item #2 Bill, and I am with you all the way :-)

Ya' really oughta' jewel the scope too

It isn't according to the rules & theory, but it works really well in practice. When we run our club level long gun matches (rifle/shotgun), we use EZ-Winscore setup as a plain ole' pistol match. We designate all slug paper targets as 1 round minimum and assign 10 points per scored hit on the COF descriptions (this is the point value I feel a slug oughta' be scored at anyway). To achieve this inside EZ-Winscore, we enter 2 of whatever value the single scored slug hit is. This satisfies EZ-Winscore and allows the slugs to be worth the point value they oughta' be worth (IMO anyway). BTW, 10 point slug hits are the next big change USPSA needs to make happen IMHO.

BTW, ifn'ya go ahead and add that 1 click up of elevation, you will be about 3/4" high at a hunnert' which is a lot better downrange zero for the .223 anyway. It will be just about on at 200 depending on just how fast your 55's really are going. This a better 3gun zero IMHO. 1.5" high at 100 is also a great zero for dead center holding on most anything out to 300 and just over. Always verify at least the windage at longer distances. 100 is barely enough to see the error creeping in.

About 1 MOA is the amount you needed there. At 150 yds this was 1.5 inches. See what I mean. Even with a centered hold, it was a random factor as to whether you hit the plate or the face of the PRT with the original zero. I'll bet ya' bang that PRT center 10 for 10 from a good rest now ;-)

LC brass s all I use for reloading .223 anymore. +1 on it being good stuff.

I like my SIG-P226 for shootability. It's large frame, but so am I. It has decent capacity and I am comfortable with the 9x19 in WW115gr +P+ form. Decent shot placement and enough immediate follow-ups are what stops in almost all cases. The myth of the one-shot-stop being entirely due to bullet mass and diameter is still hugely held as gospel and even though the Marshall/Sanow data has proved to be a tad skewed, the final tally does reveal some quite interesting truths about relative cartridge performance in the real world. I trust the 9x19 completely and feel fine with it as my choice. Given my druthers though. I would go everywhere with a rifle slung over my shoulder AND a holstered pistol as it's "backup" ;-) Marshall/Sanow Data over the years: TABLE1.PDF TABLE2.PDF

Russ, with that zero, a dead center hold at 150 on a 4-5" PRT opening has you hitting barely an inch from the right edge of the scoring hole. Any other misalignment whatsoever and it's 50/50 chance as to whether the shot is pulled into the center of the scoring zone, or off the edge of it.

Russ, RS has a point about that inch+ to the right group at one hunnert' You should be centered on the aim point to be truly zeroed. Here is a chart showing what a typical 55gr at 3125 fps does downrange when zeroed at 100 yards. Minus a half inch at 150 is about where it winds up. 55gr_100yd_zero.pdf Your slight zero error coupled with a half inch extra drop and any optical offset from your multiple lenses pretty much explains it to me when coupled with the slight hold wanderings present in a field position versus bagged on a bench.

I am not sure I believe the mirage and wind pushing that mirage at 150 yards will cause this much error. At 300+ I could see it being a large enough factor, but this short of a distance makes me think not unless you had a heckuva' wind going.

If you are sighted at 100 yards and shooting at 150 yards, the issue could have been parallax related. Where you getting your eye centered behind the scope, or was there some pupil offset occlusion going on?

Russ, free float handguards? If not, maybe you were torquing the bbl somewhat when you were shooting at the PRT. I have found similar reasons after the fact when something didn't add up about the POI of a known zeroed rifle.

This is high payin' work for really good pilots only and skid sitters with a whole lotta' of nerve. Don't apply if you are afraid of electricity, or heights, or both! This is the best way to repair transmission line infrastructure without taking them out of service. Been happening for a few years after one pilot/repairman team pioneered the method a few years back on their own in a foreign country without OSHA rules. Once it was proved as a working technique, it became accepted over here. Musta' taken some real cojones to be the guys who tried it first to see if it actually worked! The big worry they had as I remember was not about the possibility of electrocution, but whether the charge taken on would kill the chopper!

Well, I may not be a genius, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last year and I also happen to have an XP machine running in the basement with Office 2.3k on it ;-)

In Office 2.3k, create a new document and on the right select the option under "Templates" for "on my computer" and Voila, a selection of templates!

Federal Headstamp = F.C.

Look in the "File" menu for the "Project Gallery"