MicahSwan

cool. I'll give it a whirl only because it's the off season, and I like to fool with these guns. I realize much of the perfect grouping after the human error is consistent reloads, but all of it is fun if you enjoy this type of stuff. I think 99.9% is good trigger control, and so it's all a waste of money anyhow, but who needs money

How much "fitting" did it take you? like I mentioned above the CGW site mentioned that it doesn't fit

is the 10x bushing fit with the Shadow 2 barrel? It looks like CGW says that it does not. curious

To get used to the the trigger when I first started it was a lot of Blake and bill drills in dry fire from the holster. Being honest about where my sights were when I pressed the first shot in DA. Then for every consecutive shot only letting the trigger out a few cm only, and not allowing the da to reset. This will teach you how the two feel different, and also aids in unnecessary trigger slapigg. Noting your shot splits in DA to SA, and SA to SA should begin to feel the same. Also learning how to trigger prep well helped.

I shot my first year in USPSA with a px4. I tried, but also realized the px4 has a really rough heavy trigger... had no idea how bad it was until I moved to an S2

is it because once you feel familiar with the run, you allow yourself to think that "this is where I can push it?" Or maybe the familiarity has given less of a reason to visually rehearse what you are about to do?

what he said. I see you moving to your left as you come to the holster and then moving your head back to your right. to get your eye to the sights. Even if you don't move your holster it's ok to have your hands start more to the rear and index just below the grip so you have less distance to cover to get to the grip. then make the party timer 0.1 less than you can do. and try to make it......

regrip, slow momentum, gun on target for when it is visually available. Not the best example but in my camera roll. https://photos.app.goo.gl/oTkeSf75rqvv8xCA9

you need to be ready to shoot sooner as you are coming into position instead of waiting until you are hard set. This for you looks like you need get your grip re-established a couple steps sooner. Also once you regrip get the gun up, and take a couple short choppy steps at the end to have a more smoothed out momentum into position. Once your vision is on target you can begin engaging without being fully set up if you are coming in lower/smoother and already have a good grip.

you look like you have practiced a tactical draw almost like a 2 step up stroke. Get on a timer and put a Target 4 feet in front of you with an empty chamber. Then make yourself get a good grip with both hands moving simultaneously like waktasz said above. work on good sight picture without trigger presses all while not allowing any other part of your head shoulders to move. decreasing part time as you achieve.

In general, (not always,) but most shooters look to eat up the dead time (1.1secish) in the draw stroke after the beep by moving your feet if possible. So starting to the right and shooting your way across was how the majority of RH shooters would do that on this one.

yup, this pretty much sums up, this RDS is in the $$$

Yes, this. But like he said pay attention that means only so many pulls across the paper. I also hit the hammer itself where the sear engages with 1500 grit paper, (only to polish not to remove material! and being careful of maintaining angle) this and a 10# hammer spring from EG, has the Single pull in the $$$$$. All the above considered though, and I still think much of what I did was a waste of time. None of it made me better. The only way that I improved was daily dry fire...

Mr Kim, Sorry late reply, I didn't see this until now. The R3Max has been working great on my direct mount slide. I had enough confidence in both these RDS R3M to take them to 2020 CO Nationals this year, after I had both slides milled and mounted in April 2020. I have around 9K through one, and about 5K through second. one of the RDS was had some slight issues with one of the illumination buttons, but holding zero and not shorting ect. (no battery grease) I had both slides milled at a Small shop here in Oregon. ArmacTactical. Simple flat cut with the 2 holes tapped. with 10 thousandths of extra space in front and in back of the optics so as to not be held onto the slide/friction on the body of the optic, but rather all the torque in place is by the 2 mounting screws. This has held well with blue loctite, and I have never had to re-zero, or re-tighten the screws. (with 2 test subjects at 9k and 5k rounds. both 100% success) Like I mentioned previously in thread above, "I was sceptical at first as well. But I got the footprint for my gunsmith to do the mounting directly from the product manager at SigElecroOptics here in Wilsonville. He said this was the engineering recommendation. He was saying that the mounting area is designed to take it, and that especially the front of the housing was not necessarily designed to take the impact. it seams to transfer directly to the glass above and cause more issues when fit tightly..."

Yes this is true and would create some frustrations. Since I have followed the direction of the engineers making the RDS, I have so far been frustration free. Time will tell what if other issues.

Yes, this seams to be the fix.

I think this is the closest to back view from my IG page. https://photos.app.goo.gl/qspCSDtdCSwXvsJU9

I was sceptical at first as well. But I got the footprint for my gunsmith to do the mounting directly from the product manager at SigElecroOptics here in Wilsonville. He said this was the engineering recommendation. He was saying that the mounting area is designed to take it, and that especially the front of the housing was not meant to take the impact, and it seams to transfer directly to the glass above and cause more issues when fit tightly...

Agree with the reduced springs, but the extended firing pin is a must when you change springs out for sure.

Interesting, can't say I have thought about it, but now I'll have to go back to see what dry fire feels like.

I used the 11lb in both my S2 for a bit, but tried the 10lb now in both for the last 8k rounds. I like it a lot. I feel like the least amount of for movement is with the 10lb. But I am also. Running around a 128 of 135gr projectile. If I were any higher HF I might go back to the 11lb.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/97TpmZrT5C8Thj539 Romeo 3 Max direct mounted to slide.

Yes working great around 8k rounds so far. The trick is to not have the slide cut to fit the optic tightly. Instead 10 thousandths in front and in back of the optic to give extra clearance. This is giving friction and abuse in the mounting hardware instead of the housing. (Housing hold the glad as well.) I had my slide milled by ArmacTactical in junction City oregon. Awesome.

I wonder if your issue is that the dot is tight fit in the slide cut. The housing is then taking the abuse, and not the mounting hardware?

To answer this question, the answer is yes, and the correction is 0.8 of a degree cut towards the muzzle.