MicahSwan

Honestly, that I'm sure will be all a dude really needs. To answer your question on wear over time versus polishing, I do not think wear over time will quite end up with the same results as polishing. But being someone who has completely overhauled and polished myself, the difference is so nominal that it probably doesn't even make that much of a difference. One thing you could add to your BSps order that would be a slight felt difference, is a reduced power trigger return spring. In the end none of the springs really matter, the deciding factor for success is hours logged with gun in hand. Cheers

I would also say to watch the end of the firing pin at the hammer end. If you dry fire as much as I do, the firing pin spring compresses enough that the pin no longer protrudes as much as intended, and no longer creates a nipple as prominent as it originally did. So for me this is changed out every 6 months, instead of per round count; as it is a dry fire wearing part... Does that make sense?

I like that. As long as it can happen it is guns happen.

Ha! Funniest thing I've read in a long time! Ok carry on.

I can understand that. I had similar issues when I did shoot irons. Ben Stoeger take a lot about this, and encourages to still shoot target focused for this reason even when using irons... I still think that's easier said than done though...

I would encourage you to go listen to Arik levy podcast where he has Yong Lee on talking about eye training and shooting a dot. Good training not to look at the dot, but only shoot target focus an the time.

Yes, the extended FP from CGW, and the reduced FPspring as well when running the 10lb hammer spring.

Didn't the High HF on this one just recently get changed? Or am I mistaken.

I enjoy shooting with friends. If there is too much goofin around it takes away from performing really well, but having familiarity in your environment I think does something to the psyche. It allows you to not get added stress, but rather relax and be able to still focus as needed... IMO

Do you ever find that if you are concentrating on the game too hard that you add more pressure to yourself than you would if shooting with friends?

Did you get it done? Pictures? curious how it comes out

I used to think it didn't matter, and was using hopes and Remington gun oil. I tried the Lucas oil, and was surprised at how lubricating it was. It was like impossible to get of the metal, so it felt like it had better properties for staying on the slide... I am not a nerd, but I feel like this stuff at a molecular level is doing something more than the previously mentioned...

Checking against the timer is nearly biblical. What i think is still an indoctrination is, "slow is smooth" though... IMO slow is still going to be slow, and fast is still going to be faster... If you start learning how it feels to drive 120mph and you begin to not be freaking out at that speed, then when you slow down to 99mph you all of the sudden feel more in control... and yet 99 is not slow. It's just that it's less reckless than 120 if that makes any sense... You have to drive faster to learn what driving faster is like.

my draw is about 66% of my reload time... I mean in it's simple parts the draw is one directional movement, and the reload is a lot more movement than simply having a two directional movement. I imagine that if your reload is the same as your draw you might physically be capable of an even faster draw... IDK if that actually proves out though...

Are you still able to door all that relapsing this time around? my reloading phase is gonna be a little shorter this year...

I think I am taking this off Season thing too seriously. I haven't picked up my pistol since Oregon State Championships which was start of Nov... Who else is taking a long break?

I like this idea in theory. But in the moment I would be like, "well that sucked" haha

I like that you leave it up to them still if they want to take the 1 procedural or not depending on how low the HF is. For a guy feeling confident in his high HF it might be done one way, and maybe another for someone thinking it's a lower HF for them.

That's actually not too bad of a time frame

Interested in the same question. I got a Glock cert from my CO placement at Area1 and not sure if I should sell or send in and then wait to resale pistol when arriving...

So an even easier way to get a 10lb main spring is the Eric Grauffel springs "the Ultimate Hammer springs" you can get from Ben Stoeger pro shop. Irun the 10lb and it will pop everything I have run (cci, S&B, Fed). https://benstoegerproshop.com/ultimate-cz-shadow-2-hammer-spring-by-eric-grauffel/ This is the way

I am not an engineer, but I also have heard that the screws if not over torqued, are over engineered for the task. Like I said what I have now with the Romeo 3Max seems to be working really well, and if it means running a big window and great glass than I happy to find out how many rounds it will go until failure.

limited value for the guy wanting to buy a gun to get into limited on a budget and not shoot plastic.

not sure about all the vehicle driving per year, or engineering arguments above about who knows more about metallurgy... All I can tell you is that I have gone through like 3 trigger return springs breaking on me, and 2 firing pin springs no longer getting firing pin out of the slide to make it look like a nipple with daily dry fire and 20k of live fire on just one of my S2's; and still am running the recoil spring and hammer spring Installed 20,000 rounds ago. so make sure you change those much more frequent. (10lb recoil spring and 10lb hammer spring with powderpuff 128PF loads) experience is not a biblical truth statement. but I do feel confident now recommending to you that if a guy was to go 20,000 (maybe 25k) rounds before recoil and hammer spring replacement you are going to be fine IMO. (IMO fact checkers... IMO haha) (remember these may not be the type of things measured by round count. But rather for your recoil spring it's more important to know what you are looking for: your slide cycling as it should (ejection distance from the gun, timing of slide cycle, straight up and down , too much or too little dwell time in the rear of the slide cycle. (this also is what you should be evaluating to decide which one is good for you and your own load) and for hammer spring the most important to track is pull weight changes, and making sure you can pop all the primers not just your diamond federal specialty Pixy dust primers.)

I had both the factory mags that came with the gun, and the mecgar ones I bought as extra. I got the Springer base pads that are 1.36oz link below. And these are def the ones I would recommend. I bought 1 of the .79 oz one, and don't like it, and now that the 59oz. weight limit in effect, it's not needed to do the .79oz one. when checking/selecting that base pad, there is an option to just add the grams extra capacity follower kit (do this, and but once cry once.)The reliability of your gun depends on you not trying to get your factory shorter springs to feed 23 rounds in a mag. I have 6 of them set up and no issues in 10-14K rounds cycled between the 6 mags. https://shop.springerprecision.com/cz75-140mm-base-pads-mecgar-17-rd-magazine/