Sigarmsp226

I was always told that a little more crimp is better than less especially if you are shooting the rounds from a revolver, lever action rifle, or semi-auto pistol or rifle.

I was always told that a little more crimp is better than less especially if you are shooting the rounds from a revolver, lever action rifle, or semi-auto pistol or rifle.

Well an expert from Dillon Precision called me back and answered my question above from where I called yesterday and the rep I spoke to said he needed to get this answer from someone with more knowledge on the subject. The answer is NO - you should not use the Short Head Die ToolHead for trimming 223/5.56 or 308 brass. The short head die tool head is made specifically for trimming 223/5.56 to 300 B/O as well as trimming a couple of other cablers (223/5.56 and 308 were not included in those other calibers).

Brass Trimming and Forming Experts - If I want to have the capability to trim 5.56/223 and 308 brass AND also be able to convert 5.56/223 brass to 300 B/O brass can I just purchase the RL1100 Short Trim Die Toolhead needed to make the 300 B/O brass and also use it to trim my 5.56/223 and 308 brass (knowing a tool head die re-set up required when I change calibers)? My intent would be to run all rifle brass through a 2 pass (cycle) process: First Pass - Swage, Resize, Trim process cycle using the Short Case Trim Tool Head (using this one tool head for all three calibers - if that is possible) knowing I would have to re-set it up for each different caliber. Second Pass - Final loading cycle (pass) using a dedicated pre-set up for that caliber standard RL1100 tool head. Guidance and Feedback is appreciated....

I was always told that a little more crimp is better than less especially if you are shooting the rounds from a revolver, lever action rifle, or semi-auto pistol or rifle.

Thanks guys for your replies and details. I have a $250.00 gift card to Dillon Precision that Steve sent me so I may go the Dillon route. My volumes are not huge and time is not an issue (reload to relax). Then if anything changes and my volumes go up, I can always upgrade.

Have a RL1100 that I want to set up a dedicated toolhead to trim mostly 223/5.56, but also some 300 B/O, or 308 brass. I have never trimmed brass on my progressive machine. I have always used a Giraud Tri-Way trimmer but this process has become more painful to my fingers as I get older. Wanted to ask if experienced progressive press brass trimming experts could share with me what trimmer system I should get please. From the make and model of trimming machine to the make and model of the trimmer blade unit to the toolhead, collet system, and trimming die. If I have to cry once - then so be it - but I want a reliable system that will provide me with reliable trimming for a long time. I ask this because I have read several past posts on this forum that recommend staying away from the Dillon system. Most of my 223/5.56 brass is range pick up that I reload and shoot in various plinking AR’s. I usually make my own 300 B/O with a resizing die and a cut off saw with a jig using once fired LC 5.56 brass. As for 308 I have a mixture of range pick up (military and commercial) that I shoot in my M1A rifles. Thanks in advance for your feedback and recommendations.

Love the ability to IGNORE posts and comments from specific members. Wonderful tool…..

GunBroker

90 minutes in corn cob media (tumble or vibrate) and the pink hue goes away - at least ot did on mine when this happened once. Just was not crazy about that pink-ish hue.

I used to not but now I do because I now have a Rollsizer Decapper.

I am waiting on these to return to stock at Precision Delta so that I can order some to try.

I was always told to not load or shoot brass that were split.

I have had brass with small primer holes also before

Natchez just added more primers to their on line inventory including CCI Small Pistol Primers - Limit is 5000 per primer type per order…. https://www.natchezss.com/cci-standard-primers-500-small-pistol.html

Posting Date and Time: Friday, 06/24/22 Time: 2:00 pm CST Natchez Shooting Supply just ADDED EIGHT different CCI primers types into their inventory including SPP, SRP, SPMP, SRMP, LRP…….and others And I know you can buy up to 5000 of each type (SKU) and you might be able to buy more than 5000 of each type (I did not try to order more than 5000 of one type). I just purchased 5000 - SPP’s and also SRP’s on the same order…… They also just added inventory of Federal SPP, SPP-Gold, SRP, LPP, and LPMP…. Here is the link for the CCI Inventory on their site…. https://www.natchezss.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=Cci+primers

Sorry - Sarge is right. The commands for USPSA are: “Make Ready” then “Are you Ready” ”Load and Make Ready” is the command for IDPA which I am a certified SO and help with local matches from time to time….. With this said my next command is - “I am out of here” because no matter what I seem to post - It is never acceptable or right…I guess since my mind has started slipping and forgetting it is best that I keep my thoughts, opinions, suggestions, experiences, and comments to myself….It been a learning experience…..Mark

This is scary to read as I run a monthly Steel Challenge match and the “Load and Make Ready” command by many shooters seems to be a “casual” process with some shooters, while not breaking the 180 rule, do not have their muzzle pointed down range and at a berm…… AHI - Thanks for posting this information. Your experience will be shared with our RO’s and every shooter starting at our match next month…..With our very experienced shooters, who I know to be active reloaders, I tend to be a more comfortable/relaxed when I give this command to them…..With your post - This just changed….Thanks Again…Mark

Another +1 from me - referencing back to Boomsticks comment just above. This is the exact same thing I do with zero issues and no powder spillage. I like the Redding Expander die so much that I have already decided that I will be ordering a second one for 9mm and eventually one for 45ACP also…..and may also order the Lyman “M” for a couple of rifle calibers (so many on this forum speak highly about the Lyman M die when loading flat based rifle rounds)….. Quote from Boomsticks thread: “Yes, I still use the MBF powder funnel and I backed it out to where it’s just along for the ride essentially. It will take a little time and patience to get it set up properly but once you do the press hums along with zero sticking.”

Plated

Best $20.00 I ever spent. You can plug the funnel hole with a reusable wine bottle rubber cork (2 pack at WalMart for $1.00) when you want to catch your rounds for checking….. Bought a plastic ammo can at WalMart that is about the size of a 50 cal ammo can for $12.00 and drilled a hole in the top. Stuck the spring into the hole and they feed right into the can. Can will hold about 2500-3000 rounds….. https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring

+1 to Boomsticks die recommendation. I bought this die based on his personal recommendation about three months ago and I have loaded over 4000 rounds with this die in my set up and I have not had a single case stick. This die also eliminated the severe Wasp Waist I was getting before I started using this die because it ever so slightly bells the case far enough down to reduce or eliminate the Wasp Waist look on a seated and taper crimped bullet.

Here ya go. Direct from Dillon Precision. https://www.dillonprecision.com/order-status.html

Off topic. - removed by Sigarmsp226

I am still using today my GemPro 250 I purchased 5-6 years ago and it works great. Mine came with a couple of calibration weights and when I turn mine on I give it about 1-2 minutes to warm up and then I check every 20th round to make sure my powder drop is working as set. I also have a RCBS 5-10-10 (something like that) I also use after I check every other 20th round on the GemPro and so far mine continues to work flawlessly. Guess I got a “Good” unit….