Sigarmsp226

Orion- One thing you can try if you are not already there. Run your press’s shell holder all the way to the highest position and then screw your resizing die down until it makes full contact with the shell holder. Lower your shell holder and then give your resizing die another 1/8 turn. This refers to a process that is called - camming over Not saying this will fix the issue but it will get you cases closer to being fully resized and that might be your issue.

$299.95 shipped for Federal 124gr FMJ https://aimsurplus.com/products/federal-american-eagle-9mm-124grn-fmj-ammunition-50rd-box-copy But I will continue to reload for all of the reasons previously mentioned in this thread….

When RollSizer company, who manufactures commercial depriming machines capable of deprimming 3000+ rounds an hour sells their machines with a FW Arms depriming/decapping die with each machine, and it is the same die that FW Arms sells on their website - well that makes my selection easy….. I have the RollSizer Depriming machine and have deprimed about 48,000 pieces of small primer pistol and rifle brass so far and the die is still functioning as intended and I have only bent/broke one pin and that one was my fault….YRMV

This may not be the issue but if the bullet you are loading has a greater width than .355”, it could be that your chamber does will not play well with a .356 - .358 bullet. Just something else to consider…..

Furrly - You beat me to this reply by 6 minutes. Agree 100% with Furrly’s recommendation….

Johnnymazz - How goes the running of your two DA3000 units? I ask because I am at a crossroad - I have the funds to purchase a unit now to mount on my RL1100 and if Dillon follows in their typical traditions (has happened every year for the past five years) Dillon will implement a price increase come January 1, 2023 somewhere between 5% to 10% and that is a significant amount on a DA3000 unit. If your units are still running good I may go ahead and pull the trigger on a unit now. Thanks for your feedback. Sigarmsp226

So far 4 units have sold on GunBroker and what is interesting is all 4 guns that sold (three different dealers) all were listed at a starting price of $2499.99 with a BIN of $2499.99. I bet SIG told their dealers that they could not sell these pistols for more than $2500.00 and that is why no one has listed on without a BIN price x allowing open bidding to occur. One dealer started with 10 units and has already sold 2 units in the past two hours….. If I wanted one I would follow NOSHMJ’s process and buy from the SIG Pro Shop for $300.00 less - and that is before GB adds their 1% convenience fee to the buyers final sale price (another $24.99)…

I am betting some of the first received pistols will end up on GunBroker with a starting price of the required minimum price dealers are required to not sell below and it would not surprise me if the first 20-50 units on GB sell in the $2800 - $3500 range. I will be waiting on the DA/SA (Allround) model that will be released in 2023…….

HesedTech - Thanks for this reminder about Brass Juice. I have not read a single negative comment about this brass cleaning solution so with your post I am going to order some and give it a try. Thanks for your post and feedback on the Brass Juice….

Osage County Guns have these new US X5’s listed for $2199.00 OCG is one of SIG’s larger direct sales providers so I tend to believe this information is accurate. I have purchased more than ten SIG pistols from John and Brad at OCG’s over the years - Very Good People in my book. SIG confirmed that guns started shipping out to dealers/distributors late last week and should start appearing in the various market places very soon. https://osagecountyguns.com/blog/the-sig-sauer-p226-x-five-is-back.html Also - Someone very close to The SIG PRoduct Development and Marketing Management leaders, has confirmed that SIG will be releasing a DA/SA version (Allround) of these models in the near future (no time frame identified yet). He was told that the DA/SA is actually an easier pistol to build vs. the SA version. Just passing on what was shared with me as I want the DA/SA version.

I eliminated the Dawn and Lemi-Shine completely so that the PH of the water does not need to be controlled. I now use Armor All Car Wash-Wax (The orange-ish yellow color stuff in the link above that INTEL6 kindly provided)) and Simply Green and I clean 3000-4000 pieces of brass in a 45 minute cycle - then rinse twice with tap water from the water hose, separate the pins from the brass, and let the brass dry in the Mississippi summer sun (2-4 hrs) on a mesh tarp (allows excess water to drain thru to the concrete. I usually clean 15k-20k during a cleaning process. All my brass is de-primed before cleaning (Rollsizer Depriming Machine) and my primer pockets get 95+% clean using this process. Many have said, and I agree, that pistol primer pockets do not need to be cleaned before reloading but I am pretty OCD when reloading so that is why I de-prime before cleaning. I also schedule these cleanings when my wife is out of town because this electric concrete mixer with 3000 pieces of brass, 10lbs of SS pins, and 4 - 5 gallons of water makes a heck of a racket - I wear ear plugs and head phones when it is running and now I also run these cycles outside the shop rather than inside - a lot less water and mess to clean up.

I am going to order one of these dies from Wayne at MA - not because this issue causes me undue stress but rather to play with it to see how reloaded ammo looks and functions. For me I see this in a slightly different light - I do not consider the coke bottle or wasp waist reloaded case as an issue so long as the rounds will “pluck” and pass my case gauges. Wayne is a shooter, a reloader, an engineer that wants to create solutions to “concerns/issues” (I did not say problems) that some reloaders have, and a contributing member of this forum who is truly trying to provide a product to support a topic (problem for some but not me) to address the issue that “some” have with the visual aspect of their reloaded 9mm ammo. As this die may not be needed or wanted by everyone - it is obvious that Wayne has developed this die design to “scratch this itch” that many 9mm reloaders tend to “worry about”…… I do not know Wayne nor do I have any affiliation with his company but I will say this - KUDOS to Wayne and Mighty Armory for developing a die that will help “some” reloaders related to their visual OCD concerns of loading ammo that reflect this look. There is no reason to be hating on Wayne or MA for developing this die. Order one or not - it is really that simple.

I guess that I was one of those “suckers” for buying bullets from X-Treme when I did. For me based on being a “B” classified shooter, shooting local and state Steel Challenge and local IDPA matches , their bullets worked great for me - and again this was when their prices were much lower (or the bullets I wanted were on sale) and they offered free shipping.

I have loaded and shot many thousands of Extreme Bullets over the years because of price and quality. They used to ship free but those days are gone. I purchased and shot both the 124 and 147 rounds. Both reflected good results for IDPA and Steel Challenge but when they started increasing their prices and started charging shipping I moved to Precision Delta and have never gone back….. To answer your question - their product quality to me was very good and their product was consistent in the orders I purchased which was about 50,000 rounds over a five year period of time…

Same here. I dump about 200-300 primed rounds in a Tupperware container and give it a good hand mixing, wait 10 minutes, and they are ready to load…..

Abbey - Thanks Sir for your post and information about the 223/5.56 and 308/7.62 rounds not igniting until after 100 rounds - did not know this. I had not considered the 9mm Tracer round and I shoot my SMG and PCC in my backyard often. I will research this as a way to scratch this itch (already loaded or projectiles for loading). I currently have 22LR Tracer rounds and that is what got me thinking about wanting a reloadable round. Thanks Again for taking time to respond to my OP….

Farmer - Thank you Sir for these links and the previous support you have provided. Greatly appreciated…Mark

Good Day Everyone - I wanted to reach out to the BE Brian Trust to ask for a short education class as I know NOTHING about Tracer Bullets but want to learn. I have never loaded or fired tracer ammo in my AR’s or M1A’s but thought it would fun to load and shoot a few rounds (if they do not cause harm to the rifle’s barrel or systems. The immediate questions that come to mind are: 1> I see that there are several sellers on GunBroker that are selling “pulled” tracer bullets for 5.56/.223 and 7.62x51/308 and wanted to ask if there are certain bullets I should stay away from? 2> Does it require a special powder or primer (magnum vs. standard) when loading tracer rounds? 3> Do tracer rounds need to be loaded to a minimum velocity? 4> Can/Do tracer rounds cause damage (chemicals used in the tracer round) to the rifles they are fired in? I ask for any/all details anyone can provide me as I consider venturing into this unknown reloading area. I do not want to shoot hundreds of tracer rounds back to back but living in the country and having a safe berm to shoot into (80 yards away, I thought it would be fun to load and shoot a few of these when the evening skies are moving in. Thanks in advance for any information provided…..Sigarmsp226

1911flyr - Two points to you reply 1> Thank You for responding the way you did rather than how some members enjoy responding to someones post if they disagree or think differently. I appreciate your reply and the way in which you worded it and it is obvious that you have experience with both models. Having shot 80,000 rounds from this new JP5 model tells me how much you shoot Sir. 2> Without question I am one that cannot wait for the future opportunity to own and shoot a JP5 as the quality of my GMR15 reflects the R&D and attention to detail that JP puts into every product they make and sell I am sure. Because it took me almost a year to save up to purchase my GMR15, and because I do not shoot nearly the rounds many others shoot like yourself, a JP5 may only be in my future purchases when JP releases their next generation PCC and the JP5’s become more affordable (second part may never occur for my budget). Thanks for your reply and information. Now you really have me wanting to at least shoot one to experience the difference. Respect you for your professional kindness….Mark

I do not own a JP-5 but run a stock, un-modified, GMR-15 and my fellow shooters cannot believe I am shooting a 9mm because my load reflects almost zero recoil that has been 100% reliable. I am only about 18,000 rounds through this rifle but it has performed flawlessly. I use this round for steel challenge, outlaw steel, and local IDPA matches. Precision Delta 124gr. JHP V2 Winchester 231 powder - 3.8gr Mixed Range Brass (limited to five quality head stamps purchased from Todd at A+ Brass) CCI 500 primers - SPP COAL - 1.10 Hope this helps in your search for the perfect load…

I would also be in for one of these modified guideplate if you decide to make more units. I am starting to see a little wear on mine. I am about 33,000 rounds thru my decapper so far……all small primer brass so far.

Yes - You can use any 308 Winchester bullet for 300 Blackout.

Blacktail - Thanks Sir for chiming in and challenging what Dillon told me. I did buy a short trim head toolhead but have not yet purchased my RT1500 trimmer. If this is not a stupid idea my thought was to set up the following: 1> Set up the short trim die toolhead as a dedicated toolhead for converting LC 223/5.56 to 300 B/O with a Full Length resizing and a Lyman “M” die on this toolhead also after the trimming 2> Set up a dedicated standard toolhead for trimming 223/5.56 (Have an extra standard toolhead not in use) with a Full Length resizing die and a Lyman “M” die on this toolhead also. 3> Set up a dedicated standard toolhead for trimming 308 brass (Have another extra standard toolhead not in use) with a Full Length resizing die and a Lyman “M” die on this toolhead also. These three separate tool heads, that I already have, would share one RT1500 trimmer. Thoughts on why this would not work? Each trim die will have a locking set bolt so once I set each of these it will be easy to move the trimmer from one toolhead to another toolhead.

Agree 100%

Don't recommend them at all. Get precision Delta jhp v2 or rmr fmj. They are very close in price to coated X3 - without question