StratRider

I don't intend to use this forum to sell anything either since I live in the DFW area and there are other local places to buy and sell. I prefer to see what I'm getting and not deal with shipping. But I will contribute to get over 50 - just in case. Regardless, every time I see this topic - it does make me laugh. How do I get 50 posts? Ummm, try posting 50 times !

Ummm, for a few days ? I'll assume that you won't expect miracles and will only be looking to add any of these commentaries to your training. A few days ago I was watching a GrandMaster (Tim Herron) video doing dryfire reloads and there was still a lot of screwing up. He shoots single stack and like Production - no mag wells allowed.

Lee Classic Turret - I load 200 rnds per hour easily - set up and conservation of motion is important here. I have a 650 - friends have 550's and for only loading 200-300 at a time, I load slightly faster than they do but I also have the case feeder. If you ever intend to have a case feeder - go with the 650 - no question. Finally, if I had to give up one of my presses - I'd sell the 650 before I ever sell that LCT.

Since I had the data on 135 gr. HP's with Prima V and COAL at 1.10 with different barrel lengths - here is my chrono info:

I have a subscription to Trident stage design which is $15/year and has a library of other peoples stages. the software is pretty lame but it is a great place to start if you just have nothing.

DFW is a huge area - roughly where are you ? I have a 650 in NRH

Nope, I give it the finger too.

I stop the shooter, especially on a Tier 1 / local match. Having been on both sides of this, I'll let is slide the first time. If they do it after the first warning, then I'll assume they are trying to jump the timer and earned a penalty.

I found that Hot water actually made them dull for me and using too much dawn or Lemishine causes problems also. A level teaspoon of dawn or equivalent squirt and 3/4 teaspoon of lemishine per gallon gets mine like new, tumbling for 1 hour. If the foam fills the container - you have used too much dawn. I use the pins, but have a good magnetic separating system. I also made a nice sorter to stand them all in trays then blow each out with a compressor then let them stand overnight on the bench. The wife just showed me that we have one of those clothes dryer tray inserts for drying your shoes - Think I'll run some brass today and givve that a try too.

The ad that was emailed to me said that with a 4 lb minimum of any "shooters world" powders - your entire order is hazmat fee free. So load up with other powders and primers if you like while you are there.

A Blue Sharpie used on the projectile and the case itself will accomplish your goal.

Did I stumble into the "Rules for Snowflakes" thread ?

I once had a problem with a few thousand purchased projectiles not being able to fit a short barrel due to the Ogive. The mfr. sent me an article after I showed them the attached picture where the left bullet was the recommended OAL and the right one was what fit in the barrel. This is a full 1/10th of an inch shorter and works just fine - although it started my quest for testing OAL's. https://www.google.com/amp/amp.dailycaller.com/2013/03/05/battered-bullets-does-bullet-setback-matter/ These guys smashed bullets further into a case than any sane person would with no adverse effects - it eased my mind tremendously.

This is something that I have started doing now but initially I have always been a stickler for starting with recommended OAL whenever possible. I like to do a lot of testing (especially if using new powders or bullet weights) just to see if there are any real differences on the chrono. Using the same brass and trickled powders, etc. I've finally concluded that the Dillon 650 will produce them close enough to not worry about minor imperfections any longer.

I've made about 8k rounds of my own ammo with no case gauge but every one was plunked in the barrel I intended to shoot those rounds in as each gun requires a different seating depth. Recently I won a shockbottle from the prize table and have used it for another 1k rounds and find that about 5% of them look similar to the photo from the op. Of those 5% all are then plunked but I have found 3 that had split brass casings and yet still plunk correctly. Even though I felt that I had a very intense case inspection process, I have to wonder how many I've already fired that were actually damaged. I am a firm believer in the Shockbottle now.

I have a Lee CLASSIC Turret that I started with and picked up a Dillon 650 because I got a nice deal from a guy that moved up to a Dillon 1050. I've told a few folks that if I actually had to sell one of them - I'd be keeping the Lee. There are a few videos out there on fine tuning a few minor things - the most annoying part was getting that primer feeder to line up perfectly with the cup. In the beginning, you WILL be dropping some primers on the floor. I found that some carpet keeps them from bouncing into Neverland. Once you develop a good process though, you can kick out 200 rounds per hour. Since I rarely load more than that at a time, that is one of the main reasons I would keep it. Not to mention that when I run into a minor screwup on the Dillon - I fix it with the Lee which takes up VERY little room on the bench. Oh - get the Auto DRUM powder feeder also - it puts the Auto Disk to shame. Best of luck.

you could get one of the youtube downloaders for free and get them yourself. Also, if you input the podcast # yourself while on youtuve - none are missing. Actually, 1 is missing - forgot which one though.

Ben stated on one of his old podcasts that if you had the old book - you would not need the new one. It seems the main difference is that every drill now also has a grid for keeping your own dates, par times, Notes.

I have made many legit buys from Armslist - only because I will only do local. If you can't meet face to face - it is likely a scam and I've seen evidence of this several times also. Almost all avenues of reporting these folks is a waste of time also - educating the masses is the better option. Thanks for reminding us all again.

Never had this problem with the Lee die. the RCBS dies need to be rounded off on the tip just a bit. I used my belt sander and gently kept rolling the pin slowly at about a 45 degree angle to start. It doesn't take much really. I've run about 2000 cases through it since then with not a single primer issue.

Do a search for Microsoft Image Resizer - one of my favorite programs. It will shrink a pic to 10% of it's size with no quality loss and do batches at a time. You may find it as one of their "powertoys" also. OFC, I am still on Win7 - not sure if they have one yet for Win-10

Dimension information from this site was interesting. " The largest primer is taller than the shallowest pocket " https://ballistictools.com/articles/primer-pocket-depth-and-diameter.php You may need to sort your range brass if there is a dimension issue.

I am curious if you guys were also noting the headstamps on any of the brass that may have cause trouble with loading the S&B primers. Every single time I feel difficulty with pushing in a primer, I check the headstamp and usually it comes down to a NATO case that didn't get swaged properly. I also have a little trouble with HRTRS or S&B brass that didn't get swaged at all and just within this last month I've come across some new brass with the headstamp "RG" which is really tight even after swaging. Based on everything I have read here since first asking the question - I am confident in the S&B primers now with the only real issue being a seating problem that may actually be in the brass and not due to the primers. Thanks for any input on this.

actually I do not compare my SSP shooting to PCC at all. 30 rnd. mags, optics, lasers if they want, start with gun in hand, never face uprange - and in my humble opinion they violate the basic premise of IDPA as written in the rulebook itself on Page 2 : Our main goal is to test the skill and ability of the individual. Equipment that is designed with no application for daily, concealed carry is not permitted in this sport. 1.2.1 Equipment Principles Allowed equipment will meet the following criteria: A. Concealable: blah blah B. Practical: All equipment must be practical for all day concealed carry self-defense I do my own spreadsheets with the match data and move all PCC shooters to the bottom of the page to never be considered for items like RAW score or Accuracy. I do compare myself to ESP more as a challenge since they have a slight edge and I would not boast about beating a CDP or CCP shooter unless they were at least 1 class ahead of me.

A 2nd finger violation is another DQ that will get you in IDPA and although nobody ever noticed, I used to walk around my office while indexing my finger on the side of my stapler and making sure that it was always pointed at the same wall (berm). LOL sneaking in some practice time.