Sean Gaines

I know this is kind of a serious topic, but I think you will always compete until the day you die. Here's a joke that I recieved in an email that made me think of this thread and competiion in general. hope this helps, if not maybe you will get a laugh out of it. FART FOOTBALL................ An old married couple no sooner hit the pillows when the old man passes gas and says, "Seven Points." His wife rolls over and says, "What in the world was that?" The old man replied, "It's fart football." A few minutes later his wife lets one go and says "Touchdown, tie score." After about five minutes the old man lets another one go and says, "Aha. I'm ahead 14 to 7." Not to be outdone the wife rips out another one and says, "Touchdown, tie score." Five seconds go by and she lets out a little squeaker and says, "Field goal, I lead 17 to 14." Now the pressure is on the old man. He refuses to get beaten by a woman, so he strains real hard. Since defeat is totally unacceptable, he gives it everything he's got, and accidentally poops in the bed. The wife says, "What the hell was that?" The old man says, "Half time, switch sides."

Congratulations, and looking at the stats, you had a great match. good job.

could be your recoil spring, try a heavier spring and see if that helps

I appreciate everyone's thoughts and oppinions on this topic. I hope this thread helps all who reads it. After giving it some thought it almost seems impossible to move the gun over to a target that is 1 yard apart shoulder to shoulder shooting freestyle while the gun is recoiling. Most good reaction times to an outside stimulus are .20 or below. and we are talking about a gun that is cycling at .05 of a second. I doubt that any of us have superman reaction times to be able to react in that fast of a time. I believe that moving your eyes to the next target would be faster, since your eyes are faster than your hands, and your gun is going to go where your eyes go(for people who have developed this skill). When I started the post I was talking about transitions from 1 target to the next, shoulder to shoulder, about 1 yard apart. Now I do believe that if the targets are stacked on top of each other, or overlapping that it is possible to let the recoil carry you up to the next target. shooting freestyle. and if you are shooting week hand or strong hand that you can let the recoil carry you over to the next target, shoulder to shoulder type scenarios. The reason I say this is becuase the gun is going that direction to begin with when the shot has been fired. So in conclusion: In order to speed up transitions, the key would be to move the eyes before moving the gun. But it has to be a subconcious, muscle memory type event. Thinking about it only leads to slower times. Not fact, Just my oppinion, take it with grain of salt, or apply it to your practice regimen. See what works for you and do it. Good Luck

+1 on the cleats, will never wear running shoes again, shooting a match. Plus cleats are cheap. I think I paid $27 for nike land sharks. You may be able to go to payless and buy some running shoes for that price. lol.

good price

newbie here, with that kind of load(major) what spring should I use for G35? what pounds? THANKS its a major uspsa load. I use a 15lb ISMI recoil spring with an ISMI captured guide rod. runs great. I have used lighter springs but they wouldn't work reliably. But try different springs, they are cheap. hope that helps

I would say to get a 20 guage shotgun for home defense. Hard to miss with a shotgun. I believe the 20 gauge is under rated as far as defensive weapon. Recoil can be managed easier, and still has alot of power. but if you have to get a pistol go with 9mm, with good hollow points. As far as the flashlight and laser. Might be too many buttons to learn and could fail. I handed my wife a sig sauer 226 and she gets confused which lever is the decocker and which is the slide release. But she doesn't shoot much either. I would make it simple stupid. Make it where she is able to pick the gun up and line the sights up and pull the trigger. no levers or buttons to push, but thats my oppinion. Good Luck

g35 15# ISMI spring with captured guide rod g34 13# ISMI spring with stainless guide rod Para ord P16 14# wolf

I guess not to get back on the topic, but why would anyone want to try to figure the hit factor beforehand anyways? I think more importantly I am looking for sweet spots and areas in the stage where I can kill time, and where I need to make a mag change etc. what is the benefit of knowing the hit factor beforehand? If you spend more time on things that you control ie making your shots, and footwork etc, I think you could benefit more, than guessing at something you are only going to be approximate at best.

Personally I use all CR Speed for everything: belt, holster and mag pouches. The only complaint I have is the mag pouches they tend to move around. they give you shims for the pouches, but they can fall out if you are not paying attention. I think I am going to put some set screws on the bottoms of the mag pouches. Other than that the mags come out real smooth.

Kevin i currently use a ISMI captured guide rod with a 15# spring in g35 which works without a hickup. I have tried as low as 12 and as high as 22lbs. But you are right about the ISMI springs, 12 and 13 wouldn't go into battery completly. what # wolf spring are you using? I have seen one other shooter using a non captured setup for thier 35, but didn't ask the # spring that he was using. with my g34 I can use 13lb ismi without any problems(non captured)

glocks are probably the most reliable guns that you can buy whether it be a 17, 34 etc IMHO. In fact its the only gun that I use for concealed carry.The only problems I have had, is when I started tinkering with my 35 and putting different #recoil springs to tweak it for competition. But a stock glock out of the box will not let you down.

I recently shot a match, and had a friend video the match. I noticed at 1/8 the speed that when shooting an array of 4 targets that my gun would shoot and lift up and down and I would shoot again and the gun would lift up and then down and then my gun would drive to the next target and do the same thing. But my question is: Is that the correct way? Or should it be the gun lifts and comes down then I shoot the next shot the gun lifts and instead of comming down on the same target, shoot the second shot and while the gun is recoiling driving the gun to the next target before the gun comes down, or at least get the gun moving that direction? or is that impossible because of the speed of the gun cycling or am I just splitting hairs? Just curious to hear what you seasoned pros have to say. I guess if I didnt explain myself correctly maybe this will help 1)gun fires, gun lifts up, then down, shoot the second shot gun lifts and comes down on the same target, then drive the gun to the second target is that correct way? OR 2)gun fires, gun lifts up, then down, shoot the second shot gun lifts and instead of going to the same target drive it to the second target while recoil is happen. is that correct way? Has anyone else gave this much thought or have practiced it.

I personally use a KKM barrel and wouldn't use a factory barrel with reloads. Because of all the horror stories of the kabooms etc. Its better to be safe than sorry.What would be nice is for people who take this poll to write a brief note as to why you choose one or the other. I would hate for this poll to get washed, due to being an old post. 25 people taking this poll wouldn't represent a valid sample size. So comments, even if brief would be helpful. thanks

I just got through reading a post about if an aftermarket barrel is worth spending the money on. I am curious to know how many people who shoot glocks in competition, actually use an aftermarket/factory barrels when loading thier rounds to the 165 major power factor. Personally I have seen both, but would like to hear from you glocksters, and your comments would be appreciated to make this poll a good one for new reloaders and new shooters who would like to have this information.

its not the bow and arrow its the indian. I personally have the drop in kkm barrel in my gun. Works great, so far so good. the only reason I bought the kkm barrel was because I wanted to shoot reloads through it and wanted a more supported chamber. the factory barrel that I had in before worked great also, when I was shooting factory remmington rounds. But the unsupported and loose chamber fit, made me a little cautious, especially hearing all the "kaboom stories". If you plan on reloading than get the barrel, you may want to shoot lead through your barrel and supposedly a no, no through the factory barrel. I have seen people shoot lead through their glock barrels, I wouldn't do it. too many other people that I have heard say not to. for peace of mine just buy the kkm barrel, you will be happy with it. Barsto I hear is a really good expensive barrel, which requires custom fitting. I cant really say much about the barsto, because never shot a gun with it, so I cant tell you if its more accurate, or more reliable. like a post earlier stated the glock is not a finely fited work of art. which I agree the gun is meant be a reliable combat weapon. Its meant to take abuse, and still go bang when needed. But, myself and alot of people have brought the gun into the uspsa/ipsc arena and the gun has been very succesful. As far as accuraccy I have been pleased usually get <1" groups out at 15 yards with my kkm barrel. we dont have a 25 yard at the shooting range that we go to, so I cant tell you what I would do at 25 yards. But I think accuaracy is very important in this sport and dont let anyone tell you that the targets A zone is so big that you dont have to be that accurate. how are you supposed to call your shots effectively? Plus there are other targets and different scenarios, that may require a precise hit. no. You want to know where that bullet is going the second you pull the trigger and i think you will be happy with and aftermarker kkm barrel if shooting reloads. If not shooting relaods stay with factory barrel, it will work fine.

you can, you can buy all the full size uppers for the lower that you have. go to glockmeister.com. the problem is the cost. you mine as well buy the gun for the cost of the upper. if you go that route, you will have to change out the ejector on the 9mm to the .40 cal one. Personally for uspsa I would use the g35, that glock seems to be the one primarily used in uspsa, and possibly look for a clean g22 at a pawn shop(they are pretty common)or buy it new. I've looked its hard to find a g34/35 at pawn shops, almost non-existant. I had to buy mine new. But if you are buying new, would reccomend gun shows. there can be some good deals there. I bought my g34 new for like $500 with fixed sights, which were comming off the minute I got home. So when you buy if fixed sights are not in your future, and plan on getting adjustables buy the fixed, so you dont have to spend the extra money on the plastic adjustables that you wont use. just my .02. Good luck

I had someone ask me a similiar question today. He asked if he should get a g34 or g35 for uspsa competition. well I told him to go with the g35. Reasoning. Well you can shoot the gun limited, limited 10 and production all with one gun. As far as the 17 vs 22. if you want to make major in IPSC, well you have to have a .40 cal minimum. so I would say the 22 would be the best. Now I am not familiar with the rules in GSSF. But if you can I would choose the g35, but if you cant then the g22 would be 2nd choice( I believe the g34 and g35 are the cadilacs of all the glocks). Like flex said you can load a .40 cal to shoot some real light recoiling loads. As far as kick comparision 9mm vs .40. there is no doubt that if you use factory in both calibers the .40 is going to kick more.

anywhere from 13lb to 15lb whichever works with your particualar load. Springs are cheap. try them all

some of the best shooters started in D class

I shoot a glock, so it will eat dirt and shoot rocks, so it doesn't matter, brass or nickel. I believe your nickel cases have a better shelf life, but I could be wrong. Also I believe nickel can't be shot as many times as brass. I think alot of people use nickel because its easier to locate in the grass, and locate there cases easier, plus it looks better. But guns that may have feeding problems, it does seem to make sense about it being more slippery.

Dillion is like the only company I know that truly has a no BS warranty. I dont think there is any company out there whether it be presses or screwdrivers that do business like they do. They are truly one of a kind.

I personally use brass THE magwell. I like it because its heavy and gives the gun a good balance. Also the fit was great. I have seen other magwells were they have been installed and they look like as though they could come off at any time. The only thing about the THE is that its ugly imo but it works

I had a nightmare about a texas star once and woke up in a cold sweat and looked up and there was my ceiling fan staring at me.