PaladinPrecision

Is this a cap full for the large dillon tumbler? Assuming corn cob media?

Figures, they are out of stock

LOL, well I don't have much time anymore. I do have a lot more powder... not saying how much. That is just what I was going to order for THAT powder for my cheapie coated lead ammo. I can say I have more WSF than that right now lol. Just looking for a load I can run with mixed brass / not head stamp sort. WSF is great, but someone that runs a popular reloading company told me that I should take care with different head stamps for wsf in 9mm.

Free hazmat?! where? lol That is probably the biggest reason I rarely mail order. Takes buying 16 lbs from powder valley to come out even.

Our club has a pro shop that is WELL stocked and people don't typically want to order online. But not a bad idea.

The dissimilar metals can cause a corrosion and galling issue if done with improper surface finish and also clearance. However, in the corrosion department the PVD, salt bath carburizing etc coatings that make the parts corrosion resistant will help alot with that department. However mixing the parts you will want to factor in the average coating buildup. ie there is a pretty large range of coatings and thicknesses. Titanium nitride for example varies quite a bit depending on the process... it can be from (memory tells me) half a micron to about 10 microns, and i forget what black nitride thickness is. Some of the PVD coatings have a smaller range. The "in" coating seems to be black nitride, they have been in business since the 1980's and they seem to have dialed in their production throughput to be a decent price and excellent performance coating. Bottom line, I would suggest getting the thickness information and having your smith build in clearances for the expected coating thickness.

I am unsure about normal tumble lube. But the stuff that BBI and the bayou guys use is some kinda polymer that seems to work well. First I would check powder and also bullet diameter for leading issues. The bullet could be too small for "Your" barrel, which can cause leading. J&M Specialty Products P/L HI-TEK Lube is the coating that is on the bullets I shoot. Coating holds up pretty darn well, much cleaner than shooting lube ring lead bullets for me.

I would like to thank the other posters for their contributions. I will see if I can find a pound of it locally, not sure I am ready to buy 300 dollars worth for an online order (to absorb the hazmat fees)

Yes I did search, the thread you are talking about was started a year ago, part of the reason for the new thread "a year later"... I was hoping that guys like me that are more scientific about their methods would reply. It isn't like other people won't benefit given the inconsistent availability in the market with other similar pistol powders. Also, I am not sure if you have noticed but the phrasing in the search engine is very particular on this forum, especially for those of us that are uses to other more flexible search engines.

So Alliant Sport Pistol has been out a year or so now. I was just checking to see if anyone had more information. Some people were saying it was like N320 but at half the cost. Checking what people that have shot and tested it have to say a year later (before I buy 16 lbs ) lol.

I measured the BBI bullets and they averaged about 0.3563 . They shoot fine, I was just looking to see if I should bother switching for "peak" accuracy. Not that my accushadow is inaccurate. I do plan on doing more accuracy testing. I have a ransom rest that I just revised the base on. Bonded sheets of wood to make a 2 1/2 inch thick base thanks to input from the late Mr Jerry Keefer. I have a great match load for it with jacketed bullets, trying to optimize the cheap coated/ low cost powder loads if possible.

I talked to the owner of BBI and he said that there might be barrel springing accounting for the 0.0005-0.001 inch I was expecting.

Sounds fair, thanks for the information!

Kinda figured 357, but that works. So if my barrel slugs 357, i should use 358 bullets correct?

So I used one of my BBI 0.356 bullets to "slug" my barrel and came up with 0.3560 on the "grove". But I don't think it actually touched the outer diameter groove. What I got out of it is that I will likely need to order oversized 0.357 bullets for this gun? I will probably break out the torch and some lead later and cast a slug with a 9mm case and retry and report in. But I was hoping to hear from guys that have done it before and are also accuracy nazi's like myself. Darrell etc feel free to chime in if you have constructive criticism... ie don't reply if you are just going to comment about wasting time.

Has anyone powder coated 5.56 bullets blue? I decided to buy some "blue bullets" for 9mm to dedicate to my "inert"/ Dummy rounds for dry fire. Those that spent time in the military automatically equate blue to inert. I was just wondering if anyone had powdercoated them and possibly had extra I could buy from them for my three gun dummy rounds (getting close to real weight for reload practice while CLEARLY being able to tell they are practice rounds). For those that want to say get dummy rounds, I have hundreds of them, they just aren't the same weight as live rounds and there is a difference.

Not sure if anyone has compared the tumbler B to the franklin, however if you haven't had the chance to use both. I would suggest just getting the franklin, with the plastic molded body you save weight and can put many more cases in the tumbler. I do quite a bit of reloading, so I found the tumbler B as sold by stainless media tumbling to be not as good of a deal in the end. I easily processed 1000 pieces of 5.56 and I couldn't come anywhere near that with the B. Just food for thought. 1300 pieces of 9x19 can be done at once also.

I was looking at getting into bullseye recently, then I talked to someone of the people and I was like nevermind... Too many assholes lol. It's like no one wants to hear you speak unless you are a master or distinguished... But f*#k me, I only shot 380's in the Marine Corps... 7 or so points off the base record. I like three gun and USPSA, I have yet to got to a match that someone wouldn't loan someone else their own gun or whatever someone needed to get through a match if they had problems. Going on one specific forum, I wondered why a well known gunsmith I know refuses to post there. It's like going on the doodie project, but these dudes are dead serious.

What is your fastest split ever with an Ar platform 223 ?

I was looking at the Stock 2, but then I thought about it. Even if CZ stopped supporting the guns, there are enough US domestic parts mfgs to keep the gun running for a long time. That's why I went with Shadow.

I wouldn't be super worried about a 0.004 variance with a cast bullet. Even my precision rifle rounds vary 0.002-0.003 in. If they varied 0.020 I would worry about it. If the nominal length allows for the 1.127 inch to touch the lands and fail the plunk test. I might back the nominal length 3-4 thou.

I would test them dynamically and see if you can tell the difference ( in this case slow motion analysis, but I doubt there would be a sugnificant difference between 0.5 lb on video)... Or possibly use the longer one as a half weight between 9 and 10 lbs. If you were working on a spring rate gauge, I think the best benefit would be the ability to quantify when a spring needs to be retired. But sounds like a lot of work for a 9 dollar spring lol. I would probably work on the low hanging fruit. like dry fire or practice lol I would rather test which one loses rate to determine which brand to use. I do like your tag method. I might have to borrow that.

They are made by different people, just like race cars, you can engineer several different products different ways and come up with comparable results at the end of the race. If they varied from one mfg, then I would worry about it. But there will always be variances in the specs that different shops specify when they make something. I would just make sure you use Chrome Silicon springs and go from there. Keep in mind that one brand 9 lb might be 9.4 lbs and another could be 8.5

My question is how hard is it to move the slide on the bare frame, remove barrel, safety, disconnector, sear, hammer... Then if it runs smooth with nothing installed. I would look to the disconnector tunnel. I bought reamers to smooth out the disconnnector bore cause almost every 2011 /1911 that I have had a pin gauge fails to go all the way through the hole. However they make them they always have a stepped bore and or a bur that can be fixed with a properly sized reamer. Doesn't increase the overall diameter, just makes it uniform and the disco slides better. I would take dyekem and coat all of the parts and slide, recoil spring rod where it's widest etc. Then shoot it. and see where it's rubbing. paint disco too

Is it possible? I am sure some exceptional soul could outrun an ar... But the majority of the world probably can't. I think one of the fastest splits I have seen on the clock is about 0.10 on a semi.