PaladinPrecision

For the price I would just go to ben stoeger pro shop and get the Ghost 360's and save a buck each.

Cool, I was turned onto building up the slide and frame mostly using a surface grinder from one of the bullseye smiths, Jerry Keefer... He uses a machine process for almost everything. When done right it should have the most bearing surface and everything parallel. Maybe a little tiny bit of polishing the tiny grinder ridges. I keep sending my guns to people that end up just screwing my guns up. So several years ago I started just doing all the work myself and absorbing everything I could from the specialists.

Think we could come up with a drawing?

So machine to about 0.001 over, hand sand/ dykem to make sure it's flat. What kinda clearance do you think you end up with by the end. Like 0.0003 clearance when it just starts to go on, vs when it's done? Just so I know what I should expect. I was playing around with my slide and the everglades slide fitting block. But when I bothered to mic it, it was 0.0002 in front to rear difference(they mill the inside mating surfaces but surface grind the outside... boo. it also dragged alot on the sections that still had cerakote so the measurements were all over the place. Hint, one of the next machines I buy will be a surface grinder so I can just machine slide to frame fit with surface grinder. lol

Machine wise, with the rotary travel and rodends. The machine has hard stops when operated by hand, which would increase consistency. I was thinking about upgrading the rodends to NHBB and seeing if that improved things. But TMZ has a great idea about making the platform more rigid.

I was just thinking of making a tension rod the other day when I watched flex in that assembly on a youtube video. What would you charge me for you to make another set of those? lol Not sure my little mill will machine steel blocks that well lol.

So after milling the under side of the slide on a mill. What paper steps would you take like 800, 1000, 1500 3m wet/ dry sand paper? (the link you sent was the whole abrasive section, not just the one with the plastic/ adhesive back you described before), then what grits of polishing paper? Thanks! It's like talking to Jerry Keefer, a whole new level of precision higher than most smiths.

I run the JP Low mass Steel bolt carrier, and I run the JP SCS, there is more to it than just running the softest spring. I would suggest not going below the 80% spring. I would go lighter spring with a heavier carrier, and heavier with a lighter carrier up and down from the lightened steel carrier. Follow? You also have to factor in that the gun needs to run 100%. So when there is dirt and fouling in the action it still needs to run. My process. I run the 85% spring, with the JP LoMass Steel carrier, if I ran the gun dirtier or went to a place with lots of dust I would throw in the 90% and regas. Currently with the 85%, I start with my lowest pressure load. Take 5 mags and load one round in each. Starting from the gun short stroking from not enough pressure (the gas screw turned all the way in), turn it half to a full turn out... Tune the gas to lock back on every one of them and only JUST... , then open the gas 1/4-1/2 more than it takes to JUST lock the bolt back on the last round. With that setup you should be able to run a slightly dirty gun and still have it run as it should unless it gets below the the threshold your lube starts to gel. Keep in mind if you set this up at 30 degrees and shoot at 60 degrees there will be issues, Make sure the temp and lube you set it up on is the same you will use later. Then I would shoot the gun a couple rounds, watch the dot / scope and see what it does. If you are right handed you will likely see the dot raise and move to the right. You will start then with the instructions on the brake. Note, you are making holes in the first gas port chamber the bullet will deal with coming out of the gun, Just cause your other xyz comp / brake has a 1/2 inch hole in the top, doesn't mean your setup with this break will be the same. Go slowly, But you will likely find that the right gas port hole is smaller than the top hole. Keep shooting till it shoots flat. The idea being the dot doesn't raise out of the A zone. I think 5/8 A zone recoil was where my surefire was. Armalite, much less. Don't be surprised if you end up with a 3/16 hole if that is what works for you... In an ideal world and I was sponsored with ammo and those armalite pills to drill out, I would drill the top hole out till my muzzle dropped or the efficacy of the brake was reduces(muzzle rises again). Then back it off to the last hole sized that worked the best.

If you were to buy a 12 x 12 surface plate today where would you order it from? Also can you share an example of the 3m sheets? They have a rather large product range lol. I was going to buy a foster frame and order a crap slide to experiment on slide to frame fit when it doesn't matter to me. (on a single stack build lol).

By the design it looks like they were designed around the V3, But they physically do go on(abet a bit of force) a gen2. When I got mine I remember Taran saying the v3 are a lot better than v2.

SCtaylor- I would say 0.020 inch oal variation is excessive. But that is what an associate of mine said he had with his auto drive.

My personality is gear perfectionist. I rarely run anything right out of the box as it was made. I even changed the tacmod stock, my TTI M2, also not used as delivered, had to change the sights and some other things to make it work for ME and be more precise with slugs. Aim small, miss small. Triggers and such, I air on the side of safety. I did make my 2011 have a rather nice 1lb 6 oz trigger job, it was almost half the weight of my precision rifle trigger lol. I bumped it back to a rather smooth and crisp 2.5. My ammo, all the most accurate and rifle ammo has lowest SD for long range pills. My accushadow / 2011's are lasers... makes it less intimidating when there is a stage that has 50 yard metric targets, I practice shooting A zone hits out to 75 anyhow... 50 is about my limit for A zone, doesn't mean I dont push through.

I shoot 55 gr bulk hornady fmj out to about 200 for matches I care about. Club matches I stretch to 300. Then when I care I go full retard and do 77gr tmk, the cost difference isn't that much from 69 grain... and I kinda follow what I do with CMP/ NRA service rifle. The 77gr tmk also lines up nicely with my JM-1 reticle out to 600 when using a 200 yard zero ( also easy enough to have an offset and zero at 50 yards for when I can't get to 200 when on the road.

For a slide, I wouldn't even think of cutting into one with less than a coated / crio treated HSS, I would default to a nice carbide drill bit with a lower angle cutting point. The steel is just too hard to bother trying to drill with HSS imo. Ain't no body got time for that.

Is that from the cases springing back at a different rate based on brass hardness? I don't actually have the machine yet, it was a friends complaint about why NOT to get one. But if there is a fix to make reasonable ammo or prep I might buy it.

Does anyone have a fix for excessive OAL variation with the warren auto drive on the 650?

H335 was designed around 223/5.56, just load up a string of 10 from min charge to max and shoot them... The FMJ 55 gr tend to be less accurate than a similar Amax. So I tend to test Amax 55gr first, get an idea of the velocities vs accuracy nodes, then transfer those over to the fmj loads, again testing for pressure, velocity and accuracy. Hope this helps.

I would say not worth it. Like Warpspeed said. I cast slugs, but I wouldn't bother with 5.56. Maybe HAVE the mold for shtf? but current market they are so cheap it would have to be a hobby/ satisfaction of making your own bullets sort of thing.

Easy, varget. I think it was like 23 or 24 grains of varget. Super accurate load. But with the cost of the 69, might as well move to the 77 TMK, in my 16 inch noveske recce barrel it lines up perfectly with my JM-1 reticle.

SO I am jumping into shotgun slug reloading. Seems the most accurate sabot slug. Helps that since it's sabot it doesn't matter QUITE as much about the lead hardness. Anyhow, smooth bore slug shooting. Goal is to have 2-3 inch groups at 50 yards so I can practice and shoot local matches without burning a dollar a round. I already have a lead pot and such, with lead being pretty cheap from a local source I can make 40 or so slugs for 3 dollars (lead component, not whole cartridge). Key problem is the wad everyone used to use WAA12F114, and that is listed in lyman reloading manual is now discontinued. Seems the federal wad breaks and causes accuracy issues, other popular wads burn up and are inconsistent. Also all the data that people have posted are 1300 + ft/s ... On a 1.2 oz slug lol... I am looking for more like 1095 ft/s lol. I have an idea for how to cut down the slug mass, but for now I am going to work with how it comes out of the mold. Key part, shooting it out of an M2 benelli smooth bore, usually end up using LM choke. Rifled barrels would make this a breeze... but no such luck for three gun.

42 grains of H4350 if you can find it with a 105 gr bullet, hornady 105 is ok, berger is best.

I know, I have one for my 308. I just was hoping to not spend that to convert every shell holder I have. I goofed on the design as I forgot the powder die stops on the up stroke due to the powder measure. I am just going to chuck the existing powder dies in my mill and bore / tap to make custom powder funnels similar to that. Your die says it is NOT for auto powder systems. Which means I have to swap out a tool head (buy another tool head) or swap the die in between load development and production runs. IE when I am working up a load for 9mm, it's a pain since I need the powder die to flare the case neck (I use the mr bullet feeder ). Just trying to streamline the whole process.

I just unbolt the powder dispenser, I still use the powder funnel and the die body. That way it still flairs the case necks. I use the same station with a funnel, so I can still use the powder level check die station. The powder measure comes off with 2 allen bolts.

So I have a dillon 650 and I do quite a bit of load testing. Usually I use the single stage press for load development so I don't have to mess with changing the powder measure 100 times. Last night I found a way to use my existing reloading stuff to streamline ammo testing. I have a RCBS charge master, so I took the powder dispenser off of the 650 and threw in a powder funnel. Since most of what I test for is OAL and powder charge... Makes it easy to do and I likely have more accurate powder throws to begin with for consistent testing parameters. I just designed a powder drop adapter for it and I will post pictures when I get that part 3d printed.

Do you have pin gauges in 0.0001 increments? I have a minus set, for like 0.025-0.500, but it's graduated in 0.001.