PaladinPrecision

Your method of reloading mirrors mine, I just don't find the time to actually get out and do it with more than one handgun a year or so. lol. I also have a ransom rest, I just need to call them and order the CZ insert tomorrow. I have been worrying more about the trigger setup as it cams a bit and is 8lbs in da which is a little more than I want. I am currently a Mechanical Engineering student so your spreadsheet held far more credibility than a lot of people posting opinions, I was able to form my own conclusions. Like 124 is the way to go unless I choose MG 121. I have a bin of 124 mg JHP sitting on my desk waiting to be loaded. I need to get my Dillon 650 bullet feeder properly setup and then I will start cranking out ammo once the load is figured out. Grips and springs are going on order in the next 20 min also lol.

My test target from stock to accu went from over 3 inches to a quick measurement with calipers was .0622 inch for a 5 shot group. Which makes this pistol the most accurate I own. Stock barrel, like many of the guns on the market and the barrel makers... The fit of the barrel is much more important than the barrel mfg in a handgun.

I meant AFTER you cut the slide and frame. Cut it for say 0.005 interference and then stone down to 0.000 clearance? Just trying to get a feel for how other people do it.

I have come to a a conclusion about what to do. Since my CZC accushadow isn't everything I wanted... and over this week I have compared the two. I think moving forward I am going to run the shadow 2, worst case I can get the accu bushing installed on the shadow 2. The grip is way more positive on the 2. My accu shadow 1 the hammer and sear engagement isn't the best, the angles need work as in SA mode it cocks the hammer a little before it falls. Which tells me the sear and hammer engagement angles are wrong. on my not cheap trigger job. lol.

I was wondering what the starting difference in dimensions between the slide and frame. Like slide width - frame width = 0.00xxx?

I have been collecting all the bits for building 2011's for a while and I was about to order a set to do the first one completely on a mill. What are peoples opinions on clearance to start the slide onto the frame. Then do people have a target clearance other than slides without friction? I have seen a top gunsmith say he shoots for 0.002 in clearance for reliability and others swear by misc other numbers. Just trying to get a feel for the starting clearance ex: 0.0002 clearance to start? I know I will have to remove the slight scalping of the mill cutter to get a long lasting fit. Will probably end up using super fine stones to accomplish that. Not in a hurry to finish it, just want the best possible outcome. To the point where my final "polish" if there is a tight spot will be flitz.

Not sure brother. I love that the accu shadow is one of the most accurate guns around. Means if I miss it was 100% me. The thing I wish the shadow had was the front strap and back strap checkering

It's a great spreadsheet and more knowledge is a great thing. My new question is if I should get another accushadow or a shadow 2. Matt loves it, Angus doesn't lol.

I was wondering the blend of acraglas to epoxy.

I have a STI Marauder and ordered a spring pack of 7-11 lbs to try tuning the recoil impulse. Any examples of what people are using? I threw in a 10 and it was easier to compress onto the guide rod than the "stock" spring, but not that much easier. Was thinking about dropping down to a 9lb. What are you guys using for 130 ish pf minor recoil spring?

My background is in Turbine Engines for F-18's. I am always meticulous about maintenance, however the idea that you can't use a part till it fails is somewhat misguided IMO, at least in things where component failure doesn't risk life or injury like when you have a light strike in practice. I might get flamed for this but hear me out. It depends on the part and the failure mode, if something is going to fail in a handgun and damage other parts, replace it often and BEFORE failure. If it's something that is easy to swap out at the range and you can keep spares in your range bag, I am more tempted to let things run their lifespan and drop a new one in if it fails. Music wire springs, stainless and other lower quality springs I replace more often. Where nice chrome silicon springs can be used almost indefinitely with the right ones. With a lot of things it really depends on the matches I am going to. I routinely rebuild my guns before a big match, but not RIGHT before a big match. From experience new parts can fail and high time parts fail, so I like to use parts after they have been proven. Ex mag springs aren't always created equal and might have a tendency to make the follower tilt and jam. I also return some parts to service for "practice" and just use them as scary spares. Like high time extractors, slide stops, firing pins all can be used in practice and dry fire with no harm. That way I am not just replacing parts for the sake of replacing them, yet I still have good parts for when it matters, I would rather spend the 80 bucks it would cost to prematurely replace the extractor / slide stop and buy 4 lbs of WSF. I am also a Mechanic by trade, so when most things break it doesn't take me long to break it down and fix it. That being said, I replace springs most often for the entire gun, Mag springs, trigger reset springs the whole deal. Things like extractors cost adds up enough to where I don't HAVE to replace extractors and such. I like doing PM, but I personally just buy all the spares and replace them before big matches and engrave a number or letter into things like the slide stops and have a log of round count/ install date in my shooting book. (I use a sniper rifle data book for my pistols too.) So I would say TRS every 5-10k depending on brand, the CZC you can run longer.Firing pin can be run longer with Federal primers vs wolf, same with FP spring and weight. I can't stand light strikes so I just use Winchester or softer primers and replace the hammer spring at 15-20k intervals. Especially if you have two of the same gun, just keep spares of the parts you would need and if you have a symptom like light strikes, replace hammer spring and firing pin... Extraction, replace spring and extractor... Probably easier to routinely clean the extractor and check tension than it is to replace things just because. Also if springs loose too much length replace them, so have a benchmark for new length and then you can probably figure out after several replacements what the mean length needed for proper function is. The metal parts are lower quality parts than you would think, so things from casting defects to stress risers will vary the length of service for the metal parts. I should be over 130k rounds through cz by the end of the year, I can tell you more then cause I just got to the point where I started even tracking things in excel for my shooting stuff, I don't have enough hard data to say for sure how long things last. With alot of dry fire I broke a TRS in under 2000 rounds from my shadow when it was new, however since then I polish them and vibratory stress relieve them. I am working on a process to address some of the CZ part short comings. Andreas has already benefited from one of the processes I am working on. For me- Fiber weekly or new one on the thursday before a match starting a match with 0 live fire rounds, can go 2 matches if there was no live fire in between. TRS- When they break, 10k, or BFM(before Match) whichever comes first. Clean extractor- Weekly during cleaning, take pick and make sure there is no carbon buildup or brass. Clean trigger group with lighter fluid- weekly/ BFM (Lighter fluid doesn't leave residue) Hammer spring- 15k, more than 2 light strikes in practice, before big match with round count over 5k. Replaced HAJO rear sight with fixed, cause it's stupid and breaks Extractor spring 20k rounds, or BFM over 15k or conditionally if I have more than 2-3 failures to extract in 200 round intervals. Extractor retaining pin 20k or when removed (always use a new pin when reinstalling) RP FP Spring- 20k rounds/ annually, if this one gets soft it doesn't hurt performance. Slide stop- BFM if over 3k, or 10k. I don't mind letting one break in practice. I just throw another in. Mag springs if have feeding issues or 15k/ BFM if over 10k Biggest things, Fiber, TRS(pisses me off routinely), and the slide stop

Cool, thanks. I am not surprised by the N320 loads. I ran N320 with my G34 in production till I realized that it also liked wsf for quit a bit less in bulk cost. So I think I am going to have match ammo with the MG 124 jhp with M320 (already load for that), and maybe some blue or bayou 124/135 with WSF / WST since I have tons of that.) practice loads depending on what is most accurate for the 130-135 pf. I have noticed that in 9minor there are several powders that seem get more accurate as the powder charge increases. Lol.Thanks for the input guys.

I am fine with that. I was hoping to score a nice shadow 1 out of the deal lol. Grip tape on the front and the backstrap and trigger polishing should be fine for me.

I was speaking in terms of when the pistol is assembled with slide, off safe,and after you have dropped the hammer and its resting on the firing pin stop. I did have some consistency issues with the disconnector reseting but I traced that to the bore the disconnector travels in wasn't the same / correct diameter through the frame. The proper size gauge pin went in about 0.100 from the top and stuck. The reason I asked was a smith on youtube said something about it and I noticed it on my gun. It's a factory STI gun, is that something that should be tuned or left alone?

I have used all the methods for brass cleaning that I know of (sonic, stainless wet tumble, chemical stripping, vib tumble with rice, corn cob, walnut etc). When I switched to stainless and was getting "new" brass every cleaning, noticed that the primers in my 650 wouldn't seat as easily (required more force and more inconsistent force), also the case flair die would stick way more than ever before. (fyi, I deprime, head stamp sort, wet tumble with dawn and lemishine. I eventually narrowed it down to the stainless tumbling and the brass being stripped of carbon, lube etc in the recesses like case necks and especially primer pockets since we do our best not to get lube anywhere near the primer pocket. I eventually went to adding a Polish step with corncob media, dillon polish and nufinish car cleaner to act as a corrosion preventative compound (aviation nonsense) that happens to add a bit of lubricity. It's a pain in the ass when you do spring brass cleaning in the 20k+ range in a week. But it really depends on the volume of your tumbler. With my Dillon huge tumbler my monthly brass can easily be cleaned in that without wet tumbling and it's far easier to get brass acceptably clean for rolling my own reloads for practice.

I am about to pull the trigger on ordering an Accu shadow for production/ three gun. I was wondering if anyone had accurate loads they had tried. I have a bunch of WSF, Universal clays, power pistol. My last accuracy test with my glock had 5.4 grains of PP with mg 124gr jhp as the most accurate. Just curious if anyone has a pet CZ 75 load for 115, 124 jhp, 124 coated, 124 lead or 135/147 jacketed or coated. I plan on using coated bullets for pew pew and maybe sticking with MG for matches since I have had pretty darn good accuracy with them.

I am pretty sure there shouldn't be preload on the hammer when it's in the "hammer down" position. However my STI marauder has preload. Do you remove material from the hammer strut to remedy?

50/50 blend? It's just for the cosmetic 2011 lower grip screws that don't actually do anything. I will just use it as it comes, it's on my personal gun so no biggie.

Do you have a suggested epoxy? I have some grip screws that a former gunsmith of mine stripped out in my 2011 grip.

If someone wants to part with a shadow 1 let me know.

Long range? I have a geissele Hi speed national "match" and "service rifle". They are awesome. Buy the Match kit, and DMR spring set and you have a trigger you can adjust from about 2 lbs to 4 lbs iirc. The lock time is the fastest in the business as far as I know. That is all accomplished with a Plus powered hammer spring. If you want a non adjustable "combat" trigger go with the SSA-E, about 3.5 lbs non adjustable. The trigger in my SPR is about 2 lbs on the first stage, then about a half pound of additional pressure and the hammer drops. It is the best. You may need to run a higher trigger pull rate on an AR10 than the 2.5 lb setup, I know on my three gun rifle I had to be careful with trigger reset in regards to shooting doubles, especially with a short reset trigger.

Hard to ship things internationally without breaking things. They stood behind their product and that is really important. I would call this a win.

I went the buy once cry a little, but with quad loading and twins... Hard to do with a stock loading port on a shotgun. The Stoeger is a great option, but it wasn't available when I bought my M2. I think with MOA tuning and a couple TTI parts with a benelli extractor the price point for the stoeger is awesome. I bought my M2 on sale from Euro Optics, then sent it in to TTI when I had the cash for the job. It made the whole thing easier to swallow. But if you're looking to just have a little fun you don't HAVE to get the M2. That being said IMO there is no better shotgun than the M2. That is why a large number of top three gun shooters use the M2. If your on a budget, get a Stoeger M3k, have MOA do the loading port and the lifter. Granted that might change depending on your location, MOA is almost local to me.

Well I am not sure it's an option but supposedly my benelli is getting that vary issue repaired right now. My shotty is at TTI and one of the things they do is bending the barrel to be POA- POI with slugs. You might look into that service.

After some testing in different guns I would say it depends. Some guns/ barrel twists like 147s, others like 124's in terms of accuracy. The accuracy difference seems to be related to barrel twist, faster barrel twists seem to like the heavier bullets. The "feel" of the 147 is a little softer, even to where it might be called sluggish. That is why the 135's came out. If you can't tell the accuracy difference, I would say just get 124/125 and order as much as you can and just go shoot, dry fire and take a class/ dvd to improve your skills.