WickedBag

I go back and forth between a Government-size 1911 and the M&P Pro. The M&P trigger can be made to feel pretty close to a 1911 with the exception of the large take-up on the M&P. The bigger issue for me is the grip angle. The M&P is much closer to the 1911 than any of the Glocks that I tried. I can adjust fairly quickly going back and forth now.

I have a Comp-Tac OWB belt holster for a M&P Pro that I like, but the angle against my body is slightly off. I do not mean the "cant" angle, but holster is not quite vertical with my body when on the belt. It makes it tough to get a quick draw because I have to lean slightly left to make room for my hand. My Bladetech holsters do not have this issue. I guess the Comp-Tac is a little safer as the muzzle is never pointing at my foot or leg. Besides the obvious solution of trimming my love handles down, has any one used a heat gun to re-mold a Comp-Tac holster in the belt loop area? I just need a small adjustment to make it more vertical. Comp-Tac had no solution for me which is what I expected considering the holster is made from a single piece of material.

+1 on that for me.

I shoot the standard M&P Full size 9mm (Burwell trigger job) in IDPA SSP and switched to a M&P Pro 9mm (factory trigger). The plan was to be able to swap the tops and use the Burwell trigger on the Pro. It didn't work. The standard M&P frame with the Pro slide does not fire. No idea why as I thought this was supposed to work. I guess something does not quite line up correctly there. Comparing the two triggers, I don't really mind the break of the Pro factory trigger, but I miss the shorter reset of the Burwell trigger. If I could combine the two trigger jobs, I'd take the Burwell reset and the heavier pull of the factory trigger combination.

I have an STI Eagle that I'm trying to upgrade with a C&S sear/hammer/disconnector kit and I have run into an issue I'm not quite sure how to fix. Here are the symptoms: With the slide OFF of the gun, everything works smoothly and the initial trigger take-up is smooth, the break is clean, the reset is clean and the next trigger pull is clean. With the slide ON the gun, the initial trigger pull has one or two "clicks" in it during the take-up. The break is clean, the reset is clean and the next trigger pull is clean. If I completely release the trigger and re-do the take-up, it clicks again. If I slightly move the slide rearward(very small amount), the click goes away and the trigger take-up is just like when the slide is off the gun. I believe the issue is disconnector related and may have to do with the curved cut-out in the bottom of the slide. I have tried both the C&S disconnector and the original factory STI disconnector. They both click, but the STI is not as bad. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions to help me diagnose the clicking problem?

I found something that I hate more than the ejector breaking....getting a new ejector thinking it will work and finding out that Wilson uses some sort of ejector mount I had not seen before. The Ed Brown extended ejector I found today is a no-go. I remember thinking the pin location on the Wilson frame looked odd, but I figured they just pinned the back of the leg or something.....nope. Is this some sort of custom Wilson cut?

Does anyone know a source in Northern Virginia for a replacement extended 9mm ejector? I just had mine break less than 24 hours from our annual Section Championship match. I'll try G&A Warehouse and VA Arms tomorrow, but I'm not getting my hopes up. thanks.

Less than 12 hours to go until the Section Championship and I just noticed this tonight when I started stripping the gun down to clean it. I'll be gathering a small collection of spare parts for the future after having to swallow this latest setback. If it could have only happened YESTERDAY...I could have ordered a new ejector. I had strange jam today when I was breaking in my new Wilson 10-rnd 9mm mags. I was thinking they sure slammed in stiff with 10 rounds and the slide closed. I hope I wasn't hitting the ejector...can't recall for sure... Anyone know of any shops in Northern Virginia that might have a 1911 extended 9mm ejector?

I just saw this exact behavior this week with my new Marvel Unit 1 on an STI frame. Sometimes the slide would close easily and other times it would not move forward at all and appear to get hung up on the feed lips. When I got home I was expecting to have to mess with the mag catch. But, with the slide removed and mag inserted I could see that the feed lips were hitting the ejector which appears to be an extra long ejector(STI Eagle 9mm). Full seating the mag causes the top of the mag to slightly shift to the right and no longer be centered. The Marvel Unit 1 slide needs to ride in between the feed lips to grap a round. I'm going to temporarily remove the ejector and I assume that will solve my problem. I'm hoping I can get the 9mm to run with a shorter ejector, but that is still up in the air. I guess I'll just swap for now.

Very nice. Although, last I checked, bull barrels are not allowed in IDPA for 5" lengths in any division. I was thinking of going the same route with .40 and a bushing setup in ESP. If they are suddenly allowing bull barrels....then I want one

Here is a link to a small picture: http://www.springfield-armory.com/store/im...ts/pi5339lg.jpg This one looks a bit closer to a real Bomar as compared to the other adjustable Novaks I've seen. Has anyone used or abused one of these in the past that could share their feedback? I have a 1911 with a Novak rear that I really want to be adjustable.

I've really enjoyed this show in the past and just watched the weekend marathon of Season 3. One thing I've started to notice is that a lot of the scenes are starting to appear staged. Like, when the captain's son buys the TV on Dad's checkbook and trys to quickly install it....you can just see everything coming. Still love the show though... One note on the crab seasons. They have changed the quota rules since season 1 so now the time window to meet the quota is much longer. This was done for safety so no one is cutting corners getting out or staying out when it's really nasty. But, this put a lot of small boats out of business. I'm guessing this is why the people seem much more at ease regarding having to rush around and gives time for fun things like playing with trucks.

Yup, I referred to that Marvel version in my post. I was hoping for an alternative as Marvel was out of the "shoe" part when I called.

I was hoping to use a .22 conversion kit on an STI 2011 frame/grip and was wondering if anyone makes an adapter to allow the use of a single stack magainze in the hi-cap grip of the 2011. I know that Marvel sells the full mag, but it does not sound like they will have any available for some time. The Marvel version just appears to be shims that mount onto their existing single stack magazine. Is there a vendor for this type of adapter? I suppose making my own is an option, but I'd prefer to not have to go that route.

This may be too late, but here goes.... I did a couple of these installs on my SS setups and they all went on a little differently. But, there was one trick that really seemed to work well. First, make sure you have straight shot through with the pin by trying it without the MSH in the frame. This will let you know the two retaining screws are in the right spot. Then, put in the MSH and proceed to insert the pin. I had one that was extremely tight and I was a little unsure about using a BFH on it so I just worked it slowly. If you stop at several points along the way, you can actually take the allen wrench and tweak the two screws a little bit in/out to try to find the sweet spot where there is the least resistance. This means that each retaining screw is centered over the pin at its current point. Then, tap a little bit more and repeat the screw tweaking. This prevents just ramming the pin home when the screws are NOT quite where they should be. Once I started using this technique, they always went in pretty well without scoring the pin. Oh yeah, and here's the link to the online instructions: http://sviguns.com/technical/magwell.html