matteekay

That's a great thought. My taper crimp is just to the point where it leaves a slight bite-ring in the bullet's coating, but I can probably dial that up a hair without breaking through. Here's the data I have right now on Sport Pistol (from my own testing). You can extrapolate a bit from here as to what lowering the charge will do: - SNS Casting 147gr RN coated lead bullet - Alliant Sport Pistol powder - Mixed brass - Winchester Small Magnum Pistol Primers - OAL 1.175" - Fired from a 5" 1911 3.4 Grains High: 955 Low: 924 Average: 941 ES: 31 SD: 8 Average PF: 138.33 3.5 Grains High: 962 Low: 924 Average: 951 ES: 38 SD: 10 Average PF: 139.8 3.6 Grains High: 996 Low: 957 Average: 969 ES: 39 SD: 10 Average PF: 142.44 Note: I was getting some fluctuation with the 3.5gr throw. I suspect it's actually a little quicker than what it tested at.

My current 9mm loads are actually using Sport Pistol: 3.4 grains under a 147gr SNS cast .356 bullet, yielding an average FPS of 941 and a PF of 138. I can try walking back the powder but I'm concerned about things getting dirty and moonclipped rounds not dropping in cleanly.

Hey there, folks! Finally picked up a revo in 9mm and I'm looking for some load data for 160gr coated lead bullets. I've found with my .38 Special loads that I like heavy bullets and fast-burning powder, and since I don't need to worry about actuating a slide, I figured I can go very heavy and slow. So... anyone have a pet load? I'm thinking Titegroup might be a good candidate.

I'm good with it being one day - just wanted to verify. I'm seeing if I can roll it into a family vacation as an excuse for coming out .

I'm trying very hard to swing this... Are you planning shoot-offs or anything? Or is it just shoot the match Saturday and pack it in?

I love it! I'm a big fan of Franken-guns!

Yup, no issues there as far as I'm concerned. The Savage I use for bowling pins has it in the exact same spot and it works well.

I dig it. I'm viewing it as sort of a grown-up 10/22 - it uses a 10/22 trigger, you can bet that there will be aftermarket stocks, and I'd wager that third party manufacturers are already looking at how they can extend that mag release so it can be activated with your trigger finger. Disclaimer: I also don't think the Hi Point carbine is an awful gun so feel free to ignore me. Very unrefined and ugly but it just works - I'm getting a similar vibe here.

Yup, thanks for the confirmation. The righthand one was installed, the left is what I replaced it with. We'll see how long I run 45 on the SDB. I thought L-10 was going to be a "once in awhile" division and that the 650 was going to be 80% .38 Special with the occasional 9mm run... all of a sudden, I'm shooting 9mm in both SS and Revo and going to the .45 more and more (it does wonderous things to bowling pins). The best laid plans of mice and men...

Yes? I didn't have a chance to take it apart until a day or so later and then I had to order it. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

X-frame with a ten-shot 9mm cylinder, comp, and scope mount...?

Installed the RN stem yesterday - what a difference! No more shaving near the top of the bullet and almost none at the base. I actually seated, pulled, and re-seated the same bullet four times and saw less coating shaved off than I typically saw after seating a bullet once with the SWC stem.

Ah well, guess I have both dies now, lol. The shipping costs enough that I figured I might as well order both. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

Do I just need the stem? Or is the die different too? Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

Well, I found one potential issue. This is the seater die that was installed on the SDB: Unless I'm missing something, it sure looks like it's meant for semiwadcutters. Can anyone confirm? Unfortunately, it's the only one I have (bought the press used - curse the confidence given by Dillon's lifetime warranty, lol). Does anyone have a part number on the round nose version if this isn't it?

Mixed.

I did, yes. Somewhere in the thread, lol. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

I addressed this a few times but yeah, obviously forcing the handle down isn't the best idea. It was more of a demonstration after the first two cases. The problem you describe about the cases hanging up on the lip is what I'm trying to address. It's not the end of the world, but it's not something I encounter with my 650, and it really slows my loading down as I'm anticipating needing to stop and adjust the case with every pull. As I mentioned, the solution for now is riding my finger on the case during insertion but a less manual solution would be swell.

.452, and dear God, no.

The buttons are all #1. Brass is mixed, bullets are SNS Casting 230gr RN coated lead. I still need to pull the stem out of the seater. However, I made some progress with it yesterday during a small run (200 rounds). Lessening the flare helped me seat bullets straighter, so I'm barely having any shaving near the top of the cone like I'm showing in the initial picture. Shaving at the base seems to have gone down, too, though I don't think I can eliminate it completely since the bullets are oversized. I didn't see any improvements with brass alignment going into the first station, so I started riding my finger on the brass until it enters the die. This works for now. I noticed that I needed to push the brass straight back to get it aligned properly so that made me wonder. I got out a level and, sure enough, the press has a forward cant. It looks like I'd have to elevate the front of the press between a sixteenth and an eighth of an inch to get it perfectly level - I'm going to try shimming it at some point and see if that improves insertion at station 1. All in all, it wasn't a bad run. I was averaging about 20 minutes per 100 rounds, and that included time spent removing the odd SPP brass or 10mm case that snuck in there, lol. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

Freedom claims that their standard 230gr goes around 830 (190 PF), their Hush line goes 790 (181 PF), and their ProMatch goes 765 (175 PF). I've only tried the standard stuff and found it to be totally acceptable in a stock RIA .45.

I'll double check it!

Gene! Good thoughts - I disassembled the lower section and cleaned the shellplate thoroughly. I was feeling like I had too much flare (no tension to hold the bullet upright) so I dialed it back a little. Now I can push the bullet into the case mouth and it stays more or less vertical. LOL, yeah, I've caught my hand in there at least once. That hurt, but the time I got it caught in the 650 REALLY hurt, haha. My bullets are oversized (coated lead at .452") so a little shaving is to be expected, I guess, though I've test run a few now that dropped straight in. I didn't see any accuracy change when a little coating got scraped so it's not too big of a deal either way. Yeah, it only took me four tries to realize that trying to force the brass in is not the solution. I'm not always the quickest... I'm hoping to get a little press time in today with the cleaned shellplate and less flare on the case mouth. I'll report back!

So what you're saying is... I need a third hand to pull the lever while one hand keeps the first case straight and the other holds the bullet upright?

That's a great point. I'll give that a try when I have a break in a few hours (the joys of working from home!).