matteekay

Quick question that I *think* I know the answer to but want to double-check. I'm shooting a Level IV in May. I know that sanctioned matches require a classifier to be shot within a year in order to participate, per 9.2.5: Every shooter in a Sanctioned Match must be classified within the previous 12 months in the Division in which he/she is entered. Per 9.2.3, successfully competing in a sanctioned match counts as classifying: Shooting and completing a Sanctioned IDPA match in the last 12 months (without a DQ or DNF) also counts as shooting a Classifier in the division in which the shooter competed. I shot last year's Level IV in September 2020 so, based on the above, I should be classified for this year's in the same division, correct? Just trying to make sure because I don't think there are any local classifiers on the calendar before the May match. I'm not sure why the IDPA classification system throws me so much...

I'll be curious to hear about everyone's experience is with these primers.

Thanks so much!

Hey there Ruger clan - Can someone measure the width of the sight channel in the top strap? Trying to determine the width of the front lug shown on the right here:

Can we sneak you in in a suitcase?

Archery? In all seriousness, I dunno. But I might have to figure that out sooner rather than later.

Cool! Links?

Really appreciate the replies, everyone! It's looking like this might be the winner: I already order from SNS fairly frequently and use TG the least. Not looking forward to load development on a mouse gun but it is what it is.

Hey all, .380 was the last of the calibers I shoot semi-regularly but didn't reload. Given the way things are continuing to go... I'm going to have to change that. However, load data is almost non-existent. I'm looking for load data using Sport Pistol, TiteGroup, or WST as I keep those on-hand at all times. I haven't ordered bullets yet so I'll take any suggestions you might have. Thanks!

Yup, only one frame size. They use their own moons, though Chiappa's are worthless. TK Custom has two sizes - .357, and 9mm/.40 . I've used the latter in both calibers and they work well with Starline brass. That's the issue - you might be able to get seven holes in a 9mm/.357 gun, but there's definitely not enough room for eight.

I figured I'm one of the only people on the planet with multiple Rhinos so I went ahead and investigated the internals. The 6" gun is DA/SA and the 2" gun is DAO from the factory. I was right in that Chiappa removes the cocking lever linkage when they build a DAO gun, but they also remove the single-action sear (it's just a spring-loaded lever on the Rhino). They replace it with a bushing to keep all of the parts under sideplate pressure and in alignment. I've pointed out the differences in the photos below. I don't think there's a huge difference in terms of action. At most, the hammer drags slightly on the single-action sear when rotating to fire. I'm going to see if I can order that bushing from Chiappa and convert the 6" to a true DAO anyhow; I've never cocked a hammer in competition.

The Charging Rhino and the 200D (not DS) are DAO. The Charging Rhino has an improved pull, the 200D feels pretty standard. I think they're installing the trigger kit in the Charging gun at the factory and that's changing the pull more than the lack of single action... but I don't own one any more so I can't check. I strongly suspect they're simply pulling out the cocking lever linkage when they convert a gun to DAO and not doing anything else. I'll crack open the 200D some point and see if that's the case.

I'm a fan, though literally none of mine are bone stock. The two main competition guns (4" for IDPA, 6" for USPSA) have Chiappa's "competition" trigger job installed, which amounts to a differently-rated spring and a lighter hammer. I also had custom front sights made for the 4", 5", and 6" by Protocall because I couldn't get the rear sight down low enough to match my load (though obviously I could have also changed my load to something faster). Protocall also reamed out the case shoulder part of the charge hole on all of mine; like a lot of semi-auto caliber revolvers, having a piece of brass that was even slightly out of spec would cause the cylinder to drag when I pulled the trigger. My moons drop like bombs now. I actually like the triggers on them, though it's something you have to get used to if you're coming from a S&W, and the recoil mitigation works as advertised.

Correct - the gen 1 Charging Rhino as well as some of the "normal" models (the 2" and I believe the 4"). Yup. I wound up selling my 9mm's and going with all .40's because they're much faster to reload (bigger holes in the same sized cylinder).

Hey, that's... something. But something is better than nothing!

That was about 90% of my issue. I also had to bend the bow a little as it would get stuck in the frame (the metal one, not the grip) when fully depressed. I installed the EGW disconnector and gave everything a final tuning. All dry fire tests are good - no weird clicks or anything - and I'm hoping to do some live fire tomorrow.

The best is that the opposite side literally says "Operator"

Quarantine drags on and I keep acquiring/modifying single stack guns... Pinky the 1911 is a 9mm Springfield Armory Operator that I had tri-topped and finished in rose gold TiN: Shown here with a 9mm RIA TCM that I had milled out for IDPA Carry Optics and then refinished in Sniper Grey and rose TiN: I'm a big fan of the ICE magwell...

Appreciate that. I'm really trying to build this gun for reliability (well, as far as 2011's go) so I might replace it. I like most Fusion parts but this one doesn't seem to be especially well-made.

I'm aiming for a preposterous new year, but otherwise agreed.

Found another problem. The trigger, an aluminum Fusion unit, didn't have an overtravel screw installed. This let it go past where it should bottom out and press further into the sear and disconnector, projecting the disco further into the slide than it should have been able to go. This was also the cause of the double-click on reset; the disco was snapping back into place from an over-extended position. With the overtravel screw in place, not only is the double click gone, but it's literally impossible to get the slide to pause on the disco (even if I pull the slide back, release the trigger, reapply pressure, and ease the slide into the disco; it immediately jumps past it). The pre-break click is still there but I'll fix that with either the EGW unit or by extending the slide channel slightly. This was probably the primary problem all along and I've been hunting down exacerbating factors. So it goes with the 19/2011 platform... On the upside, I'll have a really well-turned gun when it's all said and done.

I'd read that and I'm going to look into it. That's more for solving the pre-break click, right? The double click on reset can happen without the slide, so I'm guessing it's either the disco's fitment in the frame hole or the way the sear spring is interfacing with it.

Good to hear!

Spent some more time on the frame today. It looks like another contributing factor is the hammer strut itself - it fell a little short and tried to sit on the upper edge of the spring cap. I reshaped it some so it's a little less curved and slightly longer but I'll probably replace it just to be safe. Right now, it's all working though. I couldn't get it to lock up and can see daylight between the strut and sear spring. The last thing to solve is an annoying click from the disconnector (both right before the break and right when I begin releasing the trigger - before the true click of the trigger resetting). With the slide removed, I can see the disco "jumps" into and out of place a little. I'm going to give the EGW ball head disco a try and also see if the sear spring is interfacing a little high. I also checked the bushing screws to make sure the grip isn't separating but everything is tight.

Again, really appreciate all of the feedback. I took it apart and it looks like it's a little of both issues; added together, it explains why the slide would get caught. The disconnector is presenting a few thousandths of unchamfered surface when it's in the "up" position, and the hammer strut is very lightly sitting on the sear spring when the hammer is back. I'll do a little fine-tuning and see if that fixes the problem. Thank you all!