Pistolpete9

Well...I'm a math teacher so I squeeze chalk kinda hard. Does that count? I'll get there. Thanks for the great stats to back up the talk! Definitely convinces me to work harder on it.

Awesome data!!! My question to you Jake would be, how did you incorporate gripping really hard during a long competition without wearing yourself out by the end of the day? Or put another way, how did you make sure that you would have the amount of grip stamina needed before actually trying it out in competition? When I try to grip super hard, I seem to have about 5 runs in me before I start to shake or tire out and my accuracy suffers horribly.

For people who know how to manipulate a slide, it is a total non-issue. Again though, I think they are aiming at the people who go out and buy a gun and shoot it once a year at most. The same kind of people who can't shoot worth a darn but claim that their pistol is "perfection"

I get that the first shot could be easier on long shots if relaxed. Are you saying that the second shot settles in naturally on long shots even with a relaxed grip? That's a heck of a tuned gun! I actually grip the same regardless of distance typically, but if I was ever in need of more grip strength I feel like it would be for the longer shots. Like Jake said, that's where a lot of difference shows up. Most people can blast away up close just fine.

I'm guessing they got tired of hearing people complain about lack of real estate for slide manipulations, but that's just a guess. I'm not sure how I feel about this one yet. I guess they are going for the Glock crowd and maybe it's good for that. Sights seem a little too low to me and I always like a manual safety so I can have a very light trigger. Who knows? They may eventually throw a manual safety out there and a larger version for the guys who want to try a CZ striker in production. Kind of odd that they are putting out a gun that goes against most everything CZ lovers are about ( steel, hammer, slide-in-frame ), but how else do you get more market share?

I don't grip as hard as Jake. I do the "hammer" grip most of the time. That being said, I shoot minor and I'm not as good of a shooter as Jake who shoots major....sooooo there's that. I'm working on getting a better weak hand grip, but am currently leaving my strong hand as is. The disparity is pretty large, so I feel like just evening it out will be a big help. I think that a lot of people can up their shooting game with a lot of stuff before they get to the place where the only thing holding them back is the ability to grip the gun hard enough to shoot faster. If you want to be a top level shooter though, it seems that a very strong grip is going to need to be developed along the way.

I saved some money by just getting a whole rig set through ghostholsterdirect. You get a belt, a good holster (you'll want the Thunder), and 3 mag pouches. I've been extremely satisfied with it for the price and added a little since then. The only complaint I have is that the belt could be finished a little nicer and that's being slightly picky. The mag pouches come with options to fit with bullets out pouches too if you prefer. The smart phone apps are great for dry fire, but you'll benefit from one of the better timers at the range

I have this installed on mine and can tell you that it's different. I can't say that it definitively lowered the weight, but I definitely have less movement now and the break is "cleaner". It may be lighter, but I don't use a gauge so I'm not sure. Losing some movement was definitely worth it for me. With the stock hammer and sear, you can't get such a small amount of movements without having the the hammer rub the sear on the way down and eventually damaging itself. Also, it changes the way the safety operates. I can now put the safety on without the hammer being back (don't really consider that a win/lose either way)

Agreed. It's actually not too bad at all once you have done it once. That adjustable sear is great but know that you have to get the safety screw just right and loctite it in place. Also, be aware that the pin connecting the strut and hammer can be a bear to get out/in. Use the right tools and it will help a lot (I.e. starter punch)

I use a 930 so my results might be different but the Fiocchi 3G cycles great for me and is accurate as well. Very low recoil. I need to do a side by side comparison again, but they seemed like they might have even less recoil than Walmart bulk boxes of #7.5

I think you'll be fine now. The confusing part can be that it looks like it's got good clearance from the forcing cone on the outer edge but can still be contacting it where it's hard to see. Putting it over the ventilated section makes darned sure you're in the clear! Mine continues to be rock solid now. I've put several hundreds of rounds through it in just the last week or so and it was great. Plate racks are quick work!

Update:. The 435 rounds without a cleaning proved to be the stopping point this time. Fire, fail, fire, fail. Not fully closing or not being struck hard enough. Take your pick. I'll clean it well and probably do the 10/22 spring as well. Not sure if any of the or3gun parts would have prevented this.

Make double sure that you are putting it far up enough on the rib. Mine is now rock solid. Also, they do sell a mount for putting in a more traditional red dot type position on top of the action. Again though, if I were going to do that it would be hard not to want to go Cmore. Mine has really been great as a fun shooting sight. I can clear a plate rack super fast and then put a slug on the gong without slowing down and go straight to clays from that. Before, I would have had to really change my stance and such ( again though, I'm not a skilled shotgunner)

I'm still processing Jake's second sentence. My brain moved the "a" one word farther back and it still kinda fit the topic in a weird way. Gotta say though, I'm gonna give this a try. Just hope no one notices and accuses me of looking like Nacho Libre doing his butt clench.

Yeah, I guess that's what I was trying to say. It's not a move that I would suggest anyone duplicates, but he can get away with it and still bring home a win.

He is Max Michel. I'm not going to question it. When Kobe Bryant threw up certain shots, it looked like everything you shouldn't do, but he was Kobe Bryant. Some guys are at such a high level that we assume everything they do is the right way to do it. Well it might be for them, but it might not be for us. Seems like he is intentionally slowing himself down here, which I don't need to develop any habits to slow myself down any further. I'm pretty good at slowing down.

I guess I'll perpetuate this post as well. For half the cost of getting it set up, I think that the TS is a great deal. I also feel like it may be a better gun than the 2011 for shooting minor simply because it's rare to hear about reliability issues on a TS, but not at all rare to hear about the same with a 2011. They also run with mags straight from the factory without any tuning. I've toyed with mine a bit now and have it set up just about perfectly and I came in with no previous CZ experience. It wasn't too hard at all. The biggest issues were with me failing to follow simple directions. Truthfully, the gun was great to start, but now it is hard to say that a 2011 could outperform it other than possibly having a little quicker trigger (and I mean the smallest margin you could think of) If I was shooting major though, I think I would probably stick with a 2011. Just my 2 cents. For the record, I agree that the only major need for this pistol is a Dawson front sight and a good holster (I also use a Ghost. Mine is the stinger/thunder)

Sig has a bit of a history of promising the moon on new products and then dumping them quickly thereafter. The P250 crowd was told that their pistol would be THE polymer Sig going forward...that lasted about 6 months. The 556 was going to be THE rifle, then the 516, then the 556xi, and now the MCX. Not sure that Sig is really about keeping a solid line running as much as they are about getting people to buy into something quickly and then moving on before the crowd realizes that the new product isn't the perfection they thought it would be. Sig is kind of the anti-Glock over the last several years. Unfortunately, it seems like Ruger has taken a page from their book and is already dumping the SR series for a less likable gun. If you want steady support, you have to stick to the classics.

Those are interesting sights, but I can't say I'm a fan because you can't see where the dot is unless it's where it's supposed to be. I definitely agree that a serrated black rear and a fiber optic front sight is the best way to go. As you shoot more, you may find that you like to shoot with a thicker or thinner fiber optic rod, but a .100 is a good start. Dawson sights are very good. Adjustable is probably not needed. Read A LOT about proper grip and all of the wonderful dryfire drills posted here. They will make all of the difference. Gear will get you to a decent starting place, but this game is all about practice. Reloads, transitions, proper grip, training your eyes/brain is where you will find the difference between top shooters and cellar dwellers. Everyone can get their hits while standing still and taking their time. Glad you're in on the game! Have a lot of fun and don't take yourself too seriously if possible. Heck, if you avoid getting DQ'ed in your first year, you'll have done better than MANY noobs.

Yeah, I don't see the pic from you, but if it is a ghost ring like Mikeski posted, than you will be limited for sure. Didn't know people were still doing the ghost ring thing on pistols. I would change it out for a dawson rear. Conversely, the extra ammo capacity of limited is fun. I often shoot limited minor

CGW is a really great company to work with! I have been very impressed. Nothing bad to say about CZ Custom at all, just saying that CGW runs the kind of company that I hope I'd run if I owned it.

Can't be sure from your description, but electricity is not needed to push you into limited. Got any pictures or model numbers for us?

Drills don't do any good if you don't understand the problem....for example, the one you suggested will have no effect if it is actually her body that is rocking with the recoil. Not trying to start an argument, but trying to show that we need to understand the problem before we can offer solutions.

Interesting. I still haven't ordered one up. Which CZC magwell did you go with and what kind of bases are you using?

I don't have video so this is tough to judge. If she has a weak grip, I'm not sure how the pistol wouldn't be slapping itself back down on the slide closing. I have a suspicion that the problem isn't in her wrists or grip. I think that her arms/body are soaking up recoil and she has to realign herself after each shot. This is pretty common with people who are smaller. If you haven't already, watch the whole body. If that is steady as a rock and it's just the wrists moving, I'm not sure what else to tell you. A stronger recoil spring is not going to be a great solution because the slide will need more energy to get all of the way back and will slap down beyond the point of aim if she has a weak grip. A 9mm 1911 is about the softest shooter you're going to find. just my two cents. I'm not a GM