The Hangin' Chad

My .02 cents I run a 12 lb. progressive recoil spring with Ed Brown shock buffs in my Kimber .45. I can get 2 to 3 thousand rounds before having to replace the buff. I really like the feel of the recoil and the way the gun reacts/responds to recoil. My load (from memory) is a variety of 200 gr. bullets over clays (I intend to change to Vit N-310 for cleaner and faster burn rate) @ 168 to 170 pf. The only modification I do to the buff is cut a V notch on each side at the top where the slide comes near, the reason for this is if you shoot the gun long enough to get it hot enough the buff will swell and contact the slide and cause a jam, I'm sure a jam would be less likely with a heavier spring. One other thing I'll add is some of my friends guns will eat up a shock buff in less than 100 rounds, I think it has something to do with how well the slide is machined, I think someone makes a reverse plug with a flange to remedy this problem. THC

I got the drunk friend covered THC

rock on homey THC

Thanks gang, but if it isn't satisfactory to the customer it will get hard chrome from our local guy or Tripp. Thanks THC

I'm doing a partial rebuild on a friend of a freind's gun and I'm having a little trouble with the finish. Because of the grinding I had to do for the fit and finish on the thumb and grip safety I decided to refinish the whole gun including exterior parts. I lightly beed blasted all of the exterior surfaces and submerged them in cold blue (Birchwood Casey Perma Blue) followed with an aggressive wiping down of all of the parts (inside and out) with a rag and oil after they were dry, and then later tried cleaning all of the parts with Hopps Gun Solvent and a toothbrush, how ever I'm still experiencing the same problem, which is, when I lube the gun (heavily USPSA style) I'm getting this black mess all over my hands due to the finish (it's mostly coming from the slide to frame and the safety's because that's the common points the hands touch). And the reason I didn't do the steel wool in the instructions is I'm trying for a matte finish which is what the gun had on it to begin with. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED. THANK YOU. And could someone please give me a hand with getting a picture posted, either by thread response or PM. Thank You THC

I like that, what's your draw time?

Siggy If you don't even have the cable option you should consider satellite, my brother had it, said it was the equivelant of DSL with @ 5 sec. upload / download delay, he liked it but switched to roadrunner the day it became available. THC

WOW I'm glad this was brought up, I never had a clue. I haven't read very much of the rule book, but if it wasn't for you guys I wouldn't have read any of it at all. THC

My bad, all I saw was the April 11, didn't pay attention to the year.

I was cruising around considering different powders for my 38 Super and stumbled on to this. If you have any, better check your lot numbers. http://www.hodgdon.com/ THC

TMC If I can ever get any descent pics I'll post them and explain what I did. My mount is a little different from yours. THC

Sorry for being to technical, I'll use the KISS method next time.

ROTFLMFAO

Here's another vote for the OKO. I know they're alot of Cmore's out there and they do work. I've shot friends guns with them and they are accurate. But I have seen and heard of tons of problems with Cmore's, and I've never heard of anyone getting anything warrantied on a Cmore (atleast so far). The main thing that I could not get over pertaining to the Cmore was the fact that you are actually bending plastic to adjust elevation, which makes them a pain in the a$$ to zero due to the fact that you don't get true lateral movement, WTF were they thinking. Something else the OKO has is auxillary sights should the dot die, mine never has and I've been shooting it for 1 1/2 years. I used the STI mount, made for the OKO and had to modify the crap out of it because it set way too high and way too far left, I don't know if anybody makes a better mount. Hope this was more help than confusion. THC

When setting sear spring tension, your pre travel tension should be about 1/3 of the total trigger weight. This can be measured by using your trigger spring scale and pulling on trigger and stopping just before the trigger/disconnector contact the sear, it is a little tricky but if you try it a couple of times you can figure it out. 2 3/4 = 44 oz...... so pre travel should be 14-15 oz., anywhere between 12 and 16 oz. will work, the lower the total trigger weight the more exact this needs to be, when get to 2 lb or below it needs to be exactly 1/3. Oh, and you adjust this tension with the center leaf. What kind of gun/trigger are we talking about, some triggers have a tab on the front left area of the bow that can be bent forward to reduce the pre travel, if yours doesn't have this you can (very carefully) make 2 vertical slits on the bow so that you now have a tab to bend, I've seen one done that worked just fine but didn't have alot of meat left on the bow. Another option is to drill a hole through the frame (or grip) and install a set screw that will contact the trigger bow in the left front area, very precise and easy adjustment compared to R&R trigger to bend tab. I wouldn't have a problem doing this to a plastic grip but I don't think I could do it to a metal frame.