rpm8300

Hey Jordan, the physical trigger itself could be changed out because of its geometry - but the guts seem overpriced. Standard trigger job means smoothing and polishing the sear/hammer contact. This is NOT something I recommend to try if you don't have experience gunsmithing because it can create a dangerous situation. To learn more about this concept, you can Youtube 1911 trigger jobs - there are tons of videos explaining this.

Hey folks - its 100% reliable with every ammo I could throw at it, to include slow 165 grain 9mm molys. For the spacer, find anything that will fit in the hole which is very small - you'll see that its a very simple mechanical issue - there is a channel that the trigger return spring and insert go in - just take a little space out and youll be fine.

Folks - just got one of the new Ruger PC carbines for PCC - a few initial impressions: -Super front end heavy - will probably be much better after replacing the CF handguard -Trigger is a gritty 4.5 stock - installed the MCARBO trigger kit which took it down to a still gritty 3lbs - very not impressed with their product. Standard trigger job tuning brought it down to a crisp 2.5 -Trigger has significant overtravel - you can take that out with a hodgepodge spacer pretty easily -Also installed MCARBO recoil buffer and spring - also very unimpresssive - I'm shooting 130 PF 147 loads and there's literally no difference in feel. Save your money and just buy replacement recoil springs and cut coils to fit your load -Very accurate, chrony is simliar to 16" AR barrels -Very good value for PCC and I actually like the feel more several highly customized AR9 builds -Send your questions - I'll post pics once I get it fully setup

I bought a Legion new and long story short, it had accuracy issues. Wouldnt get anywhere near a good group with 147s of different types and powders. Best group I had was 2" with factory 124. I called Sig and told them that Ive owned a 320 and a 320 x5 and both were pretty accurate. The clown I got said I could send it in but the standard they use is 2" at 10 yards. I laughed and explained that theyre advertising this as an ultimate competition gun and backing it up with shotgun birdshot accuracy. If you send it in and it passes this high standard you have to pay for shipping and ammo. Sig has constantly under performed - from the early Romeo 1 to the MPXs to this. Also of note, I borrowed a buddys Legion and his X5 non Legion to double check everything - same result with different Legion barrels and slides.

Another set of data points: I have a S2 and S3 and I like 147 Blues and Plated, 158 plated (technically 38s) and 165 Xtremes. For the heaviest bullets with fast powder, 6lbs and 7lbs actually work very well. I had them milled for CO and the dot is actually very controlled with pretty much no dot dip at the end of the slide locking in to battery. For 124s or lighter, definitely start at 8 and go up. To double check myself, I'll use ultra slow motion mode on my phone and record the gun to see if its 'matches' what 'it feels like.' Worth trying too.

Hey man, yeah, totally get it. After shooting a lot of PCC this year with both the MPX and the AR platform, I'll say the biggest factor for any and all PCC shooting is reliability - MPX is all about the gas system, as well as constantly changing out extractor spring/insert. AR9 its really mags and extractor; if you have an external extractor like on the Faxon G2 BCG, its much easier in my opinion. If I was running your type of setup I would run 125 Blues (for cost savings) or a 124 plated at 1075 fps with a medium powder like Acc #2 or N320. At more and its diminishing returns for comp efficiency. Try different springs for your buffer regardless of what system you use - you'll be surprised what you can get away with and what 'feels' best for you.

Just another opinion - I've put quite a few rounds out of an MPX G2 with OEM bird cage - useless, as well as the MPX G3 which has a 'comp' but is also relatively useless. I also have shot an MBX 14.5" with wielded MBX comp to make 16" - standard barrel, not the super light weight one. The MBX comp is definitely providing some counter force for the barrel. That being said the amount that the MBX comp 'works' is largely due to loads. Both the MPX and custom AR9 I built were plenty soft but only the AR9 would reliably shoot any minor PF load I threw at it. Literally, it would shoot subminor steel challenge loads - think 147 plated bullets going 800 fps - in this application, Accurate 2 and N320 were best to get some gas gong. If you run a heavier bullet with faster powder, i.e. 147s with Titegroup at PF, there's only so much gas left over at the end of that barrel to push gas out the ports. I could grab 124 factory and shoot it out of the AR9 and the dot return was definitely faster - although the gun is hitting your shoulder way harder. The best balance for me was a 147 plated with medium powder, like Acc #2 or N320 - I tried it with WAC and it wasn't worth all of the extra powder. That load had a very good balance of dot return and recoil. Also of note, given the same load, the MPX is softer but the AR9 will have a faster dot return. I found this the same with both the Blitzkrieg and MBX recoil systems in the AR9.

Pros and Cons - MPX is way softer, but dot settle time is slower and its inherently LESS reliable than a blowback AR. AR, even with the softest load and buffer aftermarket junk, will never feel like an MPX - with the right load the dot will recycle faster.

I would say get a Gen 3 but if you can get a Gen 2 with a gas port opened, that's fine to. I have a lot of trigger time on both and here are some observations: -The Gen 3 port is a little larger than the Gen 2 port but still fairly restricted - if you run 147 grains at PF you may have issues. -The Gen 2 has a pinned and wielded comp that gives a total 16"; the Gen 3 has a 16" barrel and a relatively worthless comp past that - you'll notice that small difference in tight shooting situations; best is taking a Gen 2 barrel, removing the birdcage, and putting a 'real' comp on. From that I've experienced with 'real' comps on AR 9mms, if you run 124s or 115s with medium burning powder, the comp is doing something. You can really see the gas in videos - its difficult for me to comment on exactly how much the gas is doing compared to an Open 2011. -Both the Gen 2 and Gen 3 barrels seem to have the same accuracy - with 147s and fast powder you can get 1" groups - if you run faster bullets like 124s you can get everything touching at 20 yds. -A lot of things can be retrofit from a Gen 3 to a Gen 2. I sent my Gen 2 to SIG and they sent it back with the updated bolt carrier group. The extractor spring/insert/and Oring are different on the Gen 3 but can be fit on a Gen 2, just like the actual firing pin spring. Gooseneck and bolt carrier are completely different with the Gen 3 but can work on a Gen 2. -One part that is not the same is the piece that holds the springs on the recoil rods - don't know the official title. The Gen 3 has a small cut out in the frame and a corresponding bit of metal on that end piece - the Gen 2 does not. And so a Gen 2 end cap works in a Gen 3 lower but not vice versa. -The rubber buffer that the bolt slams in to is also different on the Gen 2 than the Gen 3. Of note, don't waste your money on the TACCOM buffer + wave spring. -The Gen 3 comes with the Timney trigger which was halfway decent at a 4lbs kind of clean break. Its good enough for a backup but throw a Hiperfire in there and call it a day. I ran an older Hiperfire flat trigger and now have a Eclipse curved trigger - change your Hiperfire springs out once a year - mine broke at a major match. Let me know if you have questions - I've spent way more time tinkering with MPXs that I ever would have imagined.

WAC is the best as far as case fillage issues - youll have room to spare with any bullet - its just not as gassy. It does burn clean and is consistent. I haven't done extensive testing with AA7 but did send some AA7 loads from a buddy, who shall remain nameless, out of the CZ. AA7 seems to be a good alternative and PF being equal, will leave you with more room in the case. I will say that I think AA7 burns dirtier and leaves more residue - depending on your gun it may not be an issue. The CZ is 100% reliable so far - I can't get it not to work. I have no experience whatsoever with Lovex. Joe - I have been using Fed SPP. I bought some Fed SPP Magnum but honestly it didnt make much of a difference. The velocity maybe went up 5 fps but it wasn't really significant. I think all that 3N38 burns just fine with Fed SPP.

Hey folks, I've been setting up and dialing in a new Czechmate and I just wanted to share some info. From the factory, the rifling will prevent you from running longer bullets - this is well documented on this forum and others. The mags can safely take 1.16 to 1.17 but you'll need to ream it out to run these - well worth it. I went with Manson Reamers and they took good care of me after a small hiccup - you'll want a "35 Caliber Pistol Throater" item code "T35P". It costs me $50 and I bought the $20 handle too - in retrospect you don't need the handle. After I reamed it, I had no problems running any bullet out to 1.17. WELL worth the reaming - for anyone who is worried about doing it, just do it. For loads, I tried WAC, Silhouette, and 3N38 - Sil is probably the all around best logistically, but 3N38 is flatter - you just need to run more of it and you'll be loading a pretty full case. Fortunately the gun is very accurate with Blue bullets so Im shooting Blues exclusively: 125 Blue 1.16 OAL 8.0 gr of 3N38 1360 at 170 PF 115 Blue 1.16 8.8 gr of 3N38 1460 at 168 PF With the 125s you're OK on the powder spilling out of the case - plenty of room. With 115s at 8.8, its a pretty full case with a compressed load at 1.16. Still, 3N38 was consistent for me in both loads, no case sep issues, not peaky, and no overpressure signs. The 115s are a little flatter than the 125s - both feel great and in my opinion as good as most high end 2011 open guns with popple holes. I don't want to start a brawl so please just take this as one person's opinion. The only 2011 I've shot that I would say is noticeably flatter is a SV 38 SC running 3N38 - very flat and great feel. For optics, the CZ right out of the box runs a traditional C-more and the mount that came with the gun 100% with no case ejection issues. I tried both the Cmore RTS2 and traditional Cmore - both were fine with the obvious better pick being the traditional Cmore. I'm very impressed with what you get out of the box from CZ for the price - it comes with 2 barrels, a limited slide, a bunch of spare parts, thumb rests, etc. Everyone keeps asking me if I have broken a slide stop yet - I haven't. I'm doing a little mythbusters and going to leave the original one in until it breaks - the gun has about 1500 rounds and nothing yet. Go 'Murica Tom

Hey guys - I just got my CZ up and running and I can post pics if requested. After running multiple 2011 9mm major guns, and I also briefly owned a Tanfo GT 9mm, I will say I like the CZ a lot. "Better" is subjective but here are some of my observations: -Reliability - right out of the box, even with the stock Cmore mount, the gun is 100%. Ive since added the CZC basepads which gives 29 for the big stick - stil 100%. Right out of the box, you don't really need to tweak it to get the ejection right, or the trigger right, it feels great. -Very accurate - a buddy who shoots a CZ locally said he runs Blues - I was skeptical but with 115 Blues and 124 Blues, the gun is very accurate. This is with both WAC and Sil. If you want to run Blues out of a major gun, this will work right out of the box. Ive had mixed success with accuracy of Blues out of 2011s at major PF. Since it doesnt have popple holes, you can get away with less powder, esp if you run Blues. I can get the same PF with .2-.4 grains less of powder depending on the load. -Value - I bought mine new for just under 3k - that is a new 9mm open gun with two barrels, slide for limited minor, new Cmore, mount, lots of spare parts, etc. -CZC has a multioptic mount which is money - it comes with a bunch of different holes and plugs so you can throw pretty much any optic on the same mount. Ive had both a DPP and RTS2 on mine. -One downside is the chamber - you'll need to ream it or just run short bullets - 1.11 with blues for me. Reaming is no big deal ,but with less powder, its not a big deal running 1.11. -Another downside is weight - I like a really heavy open gun, and this is lighter than my steel grip 2011 with super heavy magwell and full length dust cover. Long story short, I like it - I think it shoots as flat and as nice as a 2011 CK fully set up with popple holes and a good comp. Tom

I put a 510C on my MPX for PCC and immediately after shooting it thought - how good would it be if you could mount this on a pistol. If anyone has run it, can you share the offset at 3m with a 18 or 20m zero - I'm going to guess its at least 2" or so. Thanks, Tom

N320 meters the same as TG in my 650 - in fact very few powders do not - 700x and Clays are what comes to mind. N320 is good but I'm a little country as opposed to a little rock and roll - I like N310. Plenty of threads about N310 with 147 and heavier bullets. If N320 is too much, you can generally find Accurate #2 cheaper - its very similar but not quite as good as N320. Yes, N320 costs a lot but just by the virtue of being here on Enos and loading your own bullets, you obviously care about the finer parts of the sport - go ahead and stretch those T-rex arms waaaay out and reach deeeep in to those pockets ? Tom

Hey folks - got my S2 milled for a DPP by J & L Gunsmithing - they did a great job and it was a quick turnaround. I actually also tried a Sig R1 - holes line up, required minor adjustments - and there are pros and cons. Sig R1 is wider and significantly lighter - lighter than the iron sights it replaces lol. But reliability is WAY too low - went down for me at Area 8 last year - buttons broke, got a new one from Sig, that broke, called it a day. DPP is the best option for pretty much anything red dot wise - only better is a Holosun for PCC and Slideride for open or PCC if applicable - for microdots, get a DPP and call it a day.

Anyone try using AR15 extractor springs?

For my MPX, I had similar gas/ejection issues in stock form. I like 147s and wanted to keep the load the same for pistol and rifle so I ended up on this: 147 Plated (doesnt really matter which ones but I've lately used Everglades RN) 3.3 gn N320 1.14 To get this to run reliably: -Gas port enlargement (for Gen2) by ILWT -'Open' gas plug by ILWT -Make sure your mag springs have enough tension - I had issues with the Taran basepads so I only use Taylor Freelance -Make sure the gas port is clean enough to allow the tappet to move freely without too* much force. I highlight this because the tappet will always need some resistance, it shouldnt just slide right in and out. Verdict is still out but my MPX Gen 2 reminds me a lot of certain open guns - it takes some work to get it dialed in, once you do that, its just a matter of maintenance and checks. Hope this helps. Tom

This is very good info - I've tried a bunch of other solvents and solutions and none have created that kind of breakup after 30m. I'll try it and advise.

Hey partner - just to provide more perspectives - I started USPSA with a G34 in 9mm in production. Its a great platform to start with and many people (Shane Coley) can take the platform to the highest levels of performance. That being said, I went to and prefer 1911/2011 platforms over Glocks. The biggest things for me are the natural point of aim, the trigger, and the accuracy. Point of Aim - grip angle is obviously more extreme w a Glock - this is intentional based on how Glock wants your arms and wrists as the sights are lined up. For me, the 1911 2011 grip angle is perfect and very natural. Trigger - pages and pages have been written on this - I have Glock production legal triggers well under 3lbs and with a pretty clean break for striker fired - it will never be as clean as a tuned 1911 break. Weight isn't as big of a deal as break - I like my 1911/2011 trigger break around 2.25 lbs but clean. The best striker fired trigger I have seen is an M&P - its very clean. Accuracy - I can't speak to 40 but in 9, my G34s have been a little finicky with different loads an bullets. Not to say all 1911/2011 are super accurate, but my Glocks didn't like heavier loads with faster powder, i.e. 2-3" groups at 20 yards from a rest. I have tried different barrels and different loads and I have seen Glocks shoot 1" groups, but its just a little more particular with the ammo. Hope this helps, Tom

Hey everyone - after learning some lessons the hard way and talking to some folks who have a lot more time on an MPX than I do, I thought I'd start a maintenance thread. I'll start by saying I like the MPX a lot and its a great PCC platform. I will also say that it take a good bit of regular maintenance and part swap outs if you want to run it 100%. I'm running a Gen 2 MPX with a floating firing pin, OEM gas port. I like running 147 plated with N320 or Accurate #2. -Tappet and gas plug cleaning - every 2k rounds -Tappet and gas plug rings - as needed but no more than 5k (gas plug isn't as important but prob worth doing at the same time) -Firing Pin Spring 3k -Extractor Spring and Insert 3k -Firing Pin 5k -Recoil Springs 10k depending on if you're running OEM or lightening - I like the -13% reduced by ILWT - don't want to go any lighter -Trigger springs 10k depending on your trigger This is probably a very very conservative schedule so I'll offer it up to the group for suggestions. Tom

Hey folks - I've been running a MPX Gen 2 in PCC for a couple months and I thought I'd share some load data. The barrel is the stock 16" and I have not modified the gas port - I'll prob end up changing both the barrel and handguard but for now I'm running stock stuff. This includes the stock recoil springs although I have some lighter ones from In Lead We Trust I may try with my 158 and 165 grain really heavy bullets - these are just going to be silly soft... After trying a few different bullets and powders, here are my top match loads: 147 Everglades RN Plated 3.2 gn of N320 1.15 OAL 902 fps / 132 PF Groups 0.75" at 20 yds - runs 100% 147 Everglades RN Plated 3.1 gn of Titegroup 1.15 OAL 936 fps / 137 PF Groups 0.75" at 20 yds - runs 100% I recently got some of the 150 gr 9mm SYNTECH bullets to see how good they would be for an off the shelf USPSA minor 9mm load - long story short, they are OK but make sure your gun is good with flat points, and their coating. 150 gn SYNTECH 1002 fps / 150 PF Groups 1.25" at 20 yds - runs 100% The SYNTECH are too hot for this PCC but may work well out of some pistols for production/carry optics. Ive figured out some other things with the MPX that have already been well documents on Enos - but feel free to message me with any follow on questions. Tom

I did this on one of my DPPs and I think it may have messed it up. I was careful about it and used a dremel slowly, but that particular DPP had to be sent back to Leupold. They replaced the guts and its fine now. After I took off the material, the autoshut off sensor wasn't working - the optic would shut off at 5m regardless of movement. FYI.

Hey Al - do you find that the .356 BBIs shoot any differently than a .357? The BBIs I would think would be more forgiving on diameter due to the coating. Thanks, Tom