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dwbethue

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  • Real Name
    Dalton Weisshaar

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Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. Agreed that this is most likely either an extractor issue or someone has possibly installed a Gen 4 firing pin safety into the Gen 5 slide.
  2. Awesome, thank you for all the replies!
  3. +1 for Autocomp. I've been very happy using it both in major and minor 9mm loads.
  4. I like running shorter uppers for PCSL or similar "burner" stages. I have a 12.3" and 10.5" that have served me very well. Both punch 200 with zero problems and I regularly push the 12.3 out to 400 with no issues. One big advantage of PCSL is the ability to change guns between stages and so I'll usually throw in either the 10.5" or 12.3" and then also a 16" or 18" and pick best fit for each stage. If you don't want to go the NFA route a 13.9" or 14.5" with a pin and weld make good options too.
  5. I shoot a ton of 115gr coated bullets using 4.2gr of Sport Pistol and have been very happy with the load. However Sport Pistol can be tough to find and I'm looking to see what powders others are using for coated bullet loads, especially 115gr loads. Thinking I should identify some backup options now before I run too low or things get too scarce again. Thanks in advance!
  6. This exactly. I got into reloading because I could load 75gr/77gr .223 for far cheaper than I could buy it. Dabbled in a little 9mm major and same thing, I could load for about half of buying. I've more than paid off my equipment investments at this point between 75gr .223, 9mm major, and 6.5 creedmoor. I like loading my own 9mm minor match ammo because I know it's very consistent and it shoots very well, however no way I would start from scratch and invest in the components and equipment if the goal was just 9mm minor at reduced cost. If you value your time at all its cheaper to buy it 9/10 times. Now if you enjoy reloading as a separate hobby, or plan to load other ammo with better load vs buy margins, then it might be worth it for "fun", but you're not saving any real money right now loading 9mm.
  7. I recommend getting a direct mill for your red dot as well instead of MOS. I have used several shops to mill in the past but I've been very impressed with Brazen Firearms in Ohio for work on Glocks. Price is right and they do amazing work.
  8. I run a Glock 45 with a KKM barrel/comp and a silicon carbide grip job. With a holosun 507 comp red dot, Carver ESP magwell (optional), a stainless non-captured guide rod with 15lb Wolff springs, and Timney trigger. I'm comfortably under the $2000 mark and it fits in stock Glock 34 holsters or open bottom G19/17 holsters.
  9. Not sure of a solution for the 510c, but Rusty Nuts Designs makes a low mount for the 1301 in the MRO pattern. It gives you an approximate lower ⅓ cowitness with the factory sights on the Tactical model, it sits much lower than when I had my dot on a picatinny section previously. He has options for RMR, MRO, and Airpoint Micro mounts. The 510c is a proprietary mount I believe. https://rustynutsdesigns.com/products/beretta-1301-low-profile-optic-mount Make sure you select for the comp model.
  10. I'm a huge fan of the Tri-Way. Has really shortened my prep time. I went the "cheap route" by powering it with a small Harbor Freight drill press that I turned upside down. I think the drill press cost me $65 with a coupon. Limited to just the one caliber, but that's all I really needed and it saved me ~$400 vs the power trimmer.
  11. Are you trimming on press or off press? If you're trimming off press, I'm using a Giraud Tri-Way in a Harbor Freight drill press and it trims, chamfers, and deburs in one step. Really cut down on my .223 prep time as I was having to do each separately before. I've been very happy with the results.
  12. I've also got the DAA. As others have said, it's not perfect, but I've really liked it overall. Simple and easy enough to use. It does save me some time, but mostly I like being able to leave my right hand on the handle. If you really want to be able to churn them out, as others have said a 650/750 is a better fit for speed, but for only about $200 I was able to increase my output about 40%-50% with the DAA. Still not as fast as my buddy's 650, but if you're already set up well on a 550 you can get a little more output without dropping a ton of cash.
  13. Really hard to beat the Ballistic Advantage Hanson profile barrels in 14.5 or 16 for all purpose use. Really accurate from 55gr to 75gr in my experience and they come with a pinned gas block which is a nice addition for someone that's had 2 dimpled blocks (that weren't pinned) work loose.
  14. No experience with the Rise Iconic, however the Geissele SDC (2lb 1st stage, 2.5lb 2nd stage) has been really great on my 18" SPR-ish build. I'm not a big 2 stage fan, but it is perfect on that build and shooting it like it's a single stage for run and gun feels great as well. I've been very happy although it is definitely on the pricy side at around $240-$260 (which looks like it is still slightly less than the Rise Iconic). Occasionally I'll see them go on sale for right around $200. LaRue used to make a Geissele "knock off" that was a really great trigger too, not sure of the exact model name. That one used to sell for closer to $120 and was really hard to beat at that price.
  15. Not at all impressed with the RA 140 triggers. I've had 2 and got rid of both of them. 1 broke and the 2nd just wasn't as nice as a $90 4.5lb HiperFire Duty Trigger. That said, I've been very, very happy with my RA-535. Great pull and crazy short reset. I love it. It is/was closer to $250 retail though, but you used to be able to regularly find it on sale for closer to ~$160. Not sure if that's still the case. If it is, spend the extra $40 vs the RA-140, or look elsewhere for a budget trigger (HiperFire, CMC, Velocity, etc.)
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