LeviSS

Thanks guys. I got some 2x2's today. I'll cut them, screw them together, paint them orange and should be good to go.

I have not shot USPSA yet. I've just watched videos. It looks like a lot of places use wood for fault lines too, so I'd like to do some of that too just to get used to getting my foot up on it, positioning, etc. Plus, there are a few drills in stoegers book using them.

I've been shooting IDPA this year and next year want to start shooting USPSA. I was going to build some position boxes to practice shooting while entering and exiting positions. What dimensions are they usually? I was thinking 3'x3', but not sure about the height. It looks like most are about 1" - 1 1/2" from what I can guess. Any advice?

I think this sucks. How's it going to affect the classifier times?

I checked into Wilderness rebuilding it...it looks like they'll only rebuild their titanium buckles. I'll probably get a Wilderness now and a double belt later.

It's the damnedest thing...I think my belt shrunk, so I guess I need to get a size bigger

I've been using a Wilderness 5-stitch for a while. I'm looking for a new belt. I'm also planning on shooting USPSA starting next spring. I could: 1) get another Wilderness. I like the belt. It's pretty stiff and like how you can get it tight and then cinch it down just a little more to keep your gear where you want it. The heavy metal buckle can kinda be a pain. 2) Try the CR Speed EDC. It looks like it might be pretty good. I like the no buckle. I'm concerned about being able to really cinch it up tight. I've never handled one. 3) Since I plan to shoot USPSA anyway, I could go ahead and get a Double Alpha belt and just use the inner belt for IDPA. What do you guys think?

What brands are those?

Thanks. I actually do have some Bullseye my buddy gave me...not much though.

ID - Wow. I couldn't have asked for a more thorough explanation. You did a great job of filling in the gaps for me. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to type you're reply.

I had another thread that spawned a couple more questions. When developing a load, unpublished or otherwise, how do you use a chronograph to stay safe? I know about starting low and working up. I understand you are looking for a certain velocity range that is considered safe. I've read where people are talking about standard deviation, and the lower the SD the better, but when does it become unsafe and what does it mean when there is a big SD? I guess I don't understand how external velocity readings are indicative of internal pressure. It seems faster powders would have faster pressure spikes and slower powders would have less spike, but could give similar velocities. If you could fill me in on the theory behind this, give examples of how you use a chronograph and tell me what you're looking for, I'd appreciate it. Ive always stayed within published load data using the exact bullet and powder listed and never tried to push the envelope. Now im starting to see the need for a chronograph. Please don't beat me up too bad...just trying to learn the finer points of reloading.

Yeah. Until now I've stuck just to published data for the exact bullet and powder used and I don't try to push the upper limits. I'm seeing the need for a chrono and will be getting one before working these up.

Thanks for all the help guys. I was worried because I had read about charges too low creating 2 pressure spikes and bad things resulting. Is that just.in larger cases with really low charges or what?

Ok. How do you know if you're starting too low? How light do you have to go before it gets dangerous on the low side?

That's the problem. I've found 0 load data for 135s, just 130ss and it didn't have my powder listed.

Yeah. I don't have a chrono yet. It's the next thing on my list...probably this month or next.

Ok. I got my dies adjusted so the coating is 100% in tact after loading a dummy round and pulling the bullet. I did the plunk test in my Glock 23 LW 9mm conversion barrel. I started at 1.150. I had to seat deeper until I got to about 1.110ish, and it felt fairly easy to spin. I then went to 1.100 and it spins and drops freely. None of my 3 manuals have 147fp data in them. Alliants website says the minimum coal is 1.08, so it looks like I should be fine. Is 1.100 an acceptable coal for a 147fp Bayou? Will a the hornady manuals starting charge of 3.5gr Power Pistol (the only powder I have now) be acceptable for this? Now on to the Bayou 135rn. I can find little to no published data for this weight of bullet, especially when using Power Pistol. The closest thing I can find is hodgdons site that lists a 130rn Berry's. Is there published data anywhere for a 135gr bullet? If not, how do you figure out where to start?

Thanks guys. I adjusted my die out about 1/8 of a turn. It looks perfect now...no mark. And it passed the push (setback) test, so I think I'm good to go.

Ok. I can see the lead in the ring. I'll play with it a little tomorrow and back it off some.

Thanks guys. There's no difference that I can tell with a caliper. I just loaded these using my dies set up exactly as they were for reloading the plated bullets I've been using. I had never pulled a bullet after crimping to check for this. Is it bad for plated too? I'm kinda nervous to change my crimp...I hate setting crimp. I have noticed the slight "wasp waist" look with my loads. I've never had a problem with setback.

I got some bayous the other day. I had read on here that you should make up a dummy and pull the bullet to see if the crimp is ok. I did and this is what I ended up with. It's got a slight ring around it...you can feel it with your fingernail, but its not bad. Is this too much crimp or is it acceptable?

I'm using plated right now. The coated are very appealing because of the price and less powder usage. How do you come up with load data? I've seen no coated loads in loading manuals. I've heard people say that they can be harder to load. What precautions need to be taken with coated? Why do bayou bullets have a groove? From what I understand, you don't use lube. Does it affect anything?

For what division? It has to meet the other rules of the division you're looking at.

What kind of material is the plug made of? Do you feel like the functional benefit is worth the cost? Thanks for the measurements, btw.

I just got a pair of kanadias. I wear EE in New Balance and Merrell, but I thought I'd give the standard width kanadias a try. I think they're going to work so far as long as I don't lace them too tight. They look good and have a pretty aggressive tread.